Timing Belt

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:04 pm

Hi All,

Can anybody point me in the direction of decent instructions or a guide to changing the 2.8CRD timing belt?

Regards

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:18 pm

And while i am here i will also ask this. what is the stock offroad capability of the KJ stock. lets say compared to the TJ stock and The WJ stock.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:36 pm

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60858 good writeup but IMHO he went at fan removal the hard way. Alternatives on fan removal at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60588&p=672321&hilit=intercooler#p672321 (I've used the Lisle tool, you can get the CRD size wrench and impact "bar" without buying the whole set, with a 16" screwdriver to help keep the fan pulley from slipping on the serp belt). Be EXTREMELY careful not to nick your radiator core when removing fan and shroud, I'd suggest a piece of cardboard or towel between fan and heater core.

Physically hardest part, absent the Lisle tool or something like viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64152 is fan removal. Beyond that rent the right tools from GDE or make then (there are posts on a homemade cam gear holder and cam pins and a 6mm allen wrench will do for a flywheel pin); carefully witness mark everything you can think to witness mark to make sure everything stays in place between removal of old belt and install of new belt; after TB install rotate the engine by hand 720 degrees and reinsert cam/flywheel pins to double check timing.

Factory Service Manuals can be downloaded from Sir Sams NOOB guide (get both 05 and 06 copies as 05 lack diesel cooling info and diagnostics but does have illustration keys; 06 lacks illustration keys but does have cooling info and diagnostics - don't ask why) and do a not too bad job if poorly organized. Also take a look at http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/72.page and http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html .

Finally if you want a copy of my somewhat random supplimental notes from helping with an TB job drop me an email.

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:31 am

Thanks for the excellent advice. The info and combined experience is goin to make this a lot easier. Would anybody know what can be substituted for Cam timing pins and a 90ATDC pin? I am trying to find these but they are pretty scarce and mucho $$$$$$$. I am in South Africa BTW.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:38 am

See the last link on my post for substitute pins also the 2005 FSM (Sir Sam NOOB guide for download) shows using a long 6mm allen key for the flywheel pin (if you do so be sure to tap around on the flywheel while insterting the allen key to make sure you are going thru the small timing hole in the flywheel not a cutout)

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:50 pm

dylan7495 wrote:

Thanks for the excellent advice. The info and combined experience is goin to make this a lot easier. Would anybody know what can be substituted for Cam timing pins and a 90ATDC pin? I am trying to find these but they are pretty scarce and mucho $$$$$$$. I am in South Africa BTW.

If you are not doing the water pump and just replacing the belt you can get away with not using the cam and flywheel pins.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:05 pm

Sir Sam is right as always, see I remembered. That said you can do this 1) if your vehicle is running fine (e.g. there is no evidence the belt has slipped a tooth (it's obvious if it has) and 2) prior to removal of the belt you witness mark at least adjacent cam gear teeth (e.g. the 2 pointing at each other); fuel pump pulley and adjacent engine housing; and whatever else you can find so you can be absolutely sure nothing other than idler pulleys, which don't matter, moves during the process (it's the "toothed" stuff that matters.

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:35 pm

Ok so if I don't replace the water pump the I don't bead to loosen the cam gears? I think the pins are only really required to lock the shafts if you loosen the gears. I bet if you get the engine to 90ATDC and witness mark the cam gears, fuel pump and crankshaft you could get away with it. As long as you don't go turning gears so as to put a cam 270ATDC compared to the crank or vice versa it should work out. that's how I did it on my VW golf GTI. 10 years back. That turned out ok. This is my first diesel so its a little more intimidating, also no special tools were required for that.. At least there is no ignition timing to figure out.

Thanks for the help guys, I think I am ready.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:58 pm

I'm a little paranoid AND I have the tools so when I do mine I'll rotate to 90ATDC and insert the pins and witness mark everthing any way but that's just me.

As long as you are not doing the water pump the cams don't need to move or be loosened and starting from whatever position things are in when you pull the front TB cover is just fine as long as you use enough witness marks to make sure nothing moves or if it does you can move it back.

Added thoughts:
1. this is a diesel not a gasser hence it is an "interference" engine (yes I know some gassers are also). Not to scare you but just 1-2 teeth off on the install or let something move off the witness mark and pistons contact valves which causes the lifters to fail as designed and you are looking at 16 lifters and pulling the head. That's why I stress witness marks and because I have the tools I'll also use them. Regardless of whether or not you use the tools or DIY tools you really need to witness mark the crank so that after installing the TB you can rotate the engine 720 degrees (2 full turns) using a socket and rachet to 1) make sure it turns freely and 2) make sure the tensioner remains correctly set (you may have to reset it slightly as those rotations tend to "seat" the belt and loosen tension slightly).
2. After you get the belt on; rotate the engine; reset the tension if need be and BEFORE you reinstall the TB front cover have your assistant crank the vehicle up and run if for like 30-60 seconds watching to make sure the belt runs smoothly and that there are no "bad" noises. Doing this is perfectly fine and will not adversely impact subsequent intallation of the serpentine belt (it's not position critical just routing around pulleys critical).
3. While in there doing all this carefully inspect all idler pulleys and the water pump pulley and such for grease leaking from bearings or anything but the smallest amount of bearing play. If leaking grease and/or a bit wobbly on the bearing then replacement is necessary.
4. finally and bear with me if this is basic. Take it slow; take pictures if you can or have access to the pictures on the links provided; have a place where you can lay parts out in order as you take them off (label them if possible); having as assistant is good even if that assistant never turns a wrench; and remember haste is your enemy. Not rushing the job, assuming no big delay in getting the fan and fan shroud off, takes on the order of 5-6 hours.
5. on that fan removal if I have not already said so put a towel or piece of cardboard between the fan and the radiator during fan and fan shroud removal. There have been several who have nicked the radiator core by not doing so.

dylan7495 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:28 pm

Thanks for the advice!! It is really awesome. The golf was not an interference engine and that's why I am a bit nervous.

Timing Belt

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