155K miles on an 05 anything else I should look for?

Terrence · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:08 pm

Hi I read the noob guide and today I went and looked at and drove a couple of CRD's. The first one I looked at was an 06 Limited with 95K for $11K and the second one was an 05 sport with 155K . I was not all that impressed with the 06 it seemed a little beat up and neeeded tires.
The 05 was at a dealer and is a 1 owner and is super clean (it was just detailed but even so it looked really clean). It drove really nice and no signs of TC shudder I did all the checks of hoses etc and everything looked good.
However it was a little slow to start (turned over fast but took about 30 seconds to start the first time) I don't know how long since it was last started though. it also had a sticker on the rad support saying it was re-flashed by chyrsler, does this mean it had the TC recall done? also there was a whine under the hood like an idler going out. is this a potentially big problem or just an idler? also I think It will need a Themostat as the temp didn't go much over 1/4 although I only drove it 5 miles. I am quite capable of doing the work myself I just want to know what I will be in for.

Is there anything else I should be checking? I am planning to do a timing belt unless I can find out definitively that its been done?
The mileage is high but it drove and looked better than the 90K 2006 I drove.

Thanks for reading and listening to my ramblings, and any insight you can give me
Terrence

The 05 I am looking at

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:24 pm

Was the CEL on?

Terrence · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 12:00 am

No CEL on

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 12:16 am

30 seconds to start is not normal in any way. I'd suspect air in the fuel issues.

irollgen4s · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 12:57 am

make sure the timing belt was done as always. is a warranty offered with it at all?

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:38 am

Q. Is there anything else I should be checking? I am planning to do a timing belt unless I can find out definitively that its been done?

A. If you don't know if it was done then do it or be sorry if it goes. Don't take the dealer word, get proof such as a repair order with the vin on it.

Q. also I think It will need a Themostat as the temp didn't go much over 1/4 although I only drove it 5 miles.

A. It takes more than five miles to get these beast warmed up during the winter and you have to work it. Not a slow cruise or going downhill.

Q. also there was a whine under the hood like an idler going out. is this a potentially big problem or just an idler?

A. a whining noise may be just low on power steering fluid but others had alt coupling and tensioner problems

Q. However it was a little slow to start (turned over fast but took about 30 seconds to start the first time)

A. You might want to check if the glow plugs was updated, if not you should do it. Even with the updated glow plugs I turn the key on and then fasten my seat belt then crank the engine. That extra time helps it to start faster.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 2:28 am

Terrence wrote:

No CEL on

Make sure the CEL lights up during the light test on the dash when you switch on the ignition. There have been a couple storys of disconnected light on the dash.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:08 am

Somewhat random thoughts both vehicles-all noted items with possible exception of decoupler are easy DIY
1. inspect both intercooler hoses - if the exterior is oil soaked they need replacing - $250 or so for both
2. check air filter and if possible the air box to turbo hose down at the turbo end - tends to crack down there - dealer item part cost ca. $50, new filter ca. $15
3. at least look at the color, yes I know I've said color doesn't matter, of the antifreeze in the coolant bottle on the firewall. If other than pale pink you know for sure it's not HOAT coolant and needs changing - I'd change it anyway - coolant amount ca. 1.6 gal and cost ca. $15-20 per gallon.
4. at idle from the driver's side of the front fender look down the serpentine belt - if the tensioner, way down in there, is bouncing around you need a new alternator decoupler - decoupler part only ca. $80 but need special tool to remove old one.
5. depending on ambient coolant should reach operating temp (gauge vertical or ca. 1/2 tick left of vertical) within 5 miles or less of city driving or less on the hwy unless really cold (e.g. 20s F or lower) in which case should reach operating in 10 miles or so of city driving. Don't know about sub-0 temps. New tstat - depends on option taken - inline no housing ca. $10, OEM ca. $125
6. if original Red Top battery you need a new one - Interstate Mega-tron ca. $125 good choice, Sears Platinum P-1 ca $225 excellent choice.
7. other usual stuff - brakes, tires, body (make them put it on a lift so you can look at brake pads thickness remaining and underbody rust (surface rust ok, big flaking rust not ok), parking brake (funny little drum brake inside rear disc - does it work or not, engage on at least small slope and see if it holds.
8. Check Sir Sam's NOOB guide for hints. If the vehicle lacks owners manual (on shelf in top of glove box) download copy and check function of all instrument cluster warning lights (e.g. be sure they all pass the bulb self test when the ignition is switched on - NOTE glow plug lights for only like 2seconds so look a it first)
9. Fuel filter head - if the driver's side electric plug is bright blue it's the 2n gen head, if not it's 1st gen and needs replacing (comes with new fuel filter) - ca. $125
10. test drive to operating temp, find up slope like an on ramp, hammer throttle ignore dealer/owner copilot, expect excellent acceleration with fair amount of exhaust smoke but not enough so you cannot see the vehicles behind
11. figure $450 for GDE EcoTune to fix all sorts of "soot" issues and increase mpg ca. 20%
12. unless proof offered figure an immediate oil change to like Shell Rotella T-6 with filter - cost ca. $35 full fill is ca. 6.3 qts on stock size filter vs. 7qts on oversize filter, I like latter - at same time replace drain plug with Fumoto valve with safety clip ca. $45

2006 - needs Timing Belt job cost varies from DIY just replacing belt (assumes all pulleys and water pump are solid and don't need replacing) cost ca. $75 and about 5-6 hrs if you know what you are doing (FYI add new serp belt in the process - no extra time cost ca. $35) to $600 for all DIY parts including water pump (better figure on a weekend) to ca. $1,500 parts and labor to have done. Good new tires and align ca. $800. Figure this and any other problems into negotiation.

2005:
1. sellers (dealer or private) have no incentive to tell the whole truth. All dealer used cars are "1 owner" make them prove it with hard copy of chain of title (like CarFax) or better yet get name of owner and speak with that person about service record unless dealer can provide that record.
2. may or may not have had timing belt done, if not is way past due could fail at any time. Unless WRITTEN proof of TB job provided figure on doing the job like right after purchase.
3. slow start not uncommon if sitting a while could be battery, air in fuel (see fuel head note), really cold day, etc. Check subsequent cold starts, if still slow there is an issue.
4. whine under hood - look at idlers you can see for leaking grease, see decoupler note and look for LOTS of red dust on front of decoupler (a bit is ok lots is not), see is sound is coming from engine end of driver's side intercooler hose in which case it's likely the flow control valve gear (see chat on how to disable this unneeded item)

Terrence · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:55 am

papaindigo wrote:

Somewhat random thoughts both vehicles-all noted items with possible exception of decoupler are easy DIY
1. inspect both intercooler hoses - if the exterior is oil soaked they need replacing - $250 or so for both
2. check air filter and if possible the air box to turbo hose down at the turbo end - tends to crack down there - dealer item part cost ca. $50, new filter ca. $15
3. at least look at the color, yes I know I've said color doesn't matter, of the antifreeze in the coolant bottle on the firewall. If other than pale pink you know for sure it's not HOAT coolant and needs changing - I'd change it anyway - coolant amount ca. 1.6 gal and cost ca. $15-20 per gallon.
4. at idle from the driver's side of the front fender look down the serpentine belt - if the tensioner, way down in there, is bouncing around you need a new alternator decoupler - decoupler part only ca. $80 but need special tool to remove old one.
5. depending on ambient coolant should reach operating temp (gauge vertical or ca. 1/2 tick left of vertical) within 5 miles or less of city driving or less on the hwy unless really cold (e.g. 20s F or lower) in which case should reach operating in 10 miles or so of city driving. Don't know about sub-0 temps. New tstat - depends on option taken - inline no housing ca. $10, OEM ca. $125
6. if original Red Top battery you need a new one - Interstate Mega-tron ca. $125 good choice, Sears Platinum P-1 ca $225 excellent choice.
7. other usual stuff - brakes, tires, body (make them put it on a lift so you can look at brake pads thickness remaining and underbody rust (surface rust ok, big flaking rust not ok), parking brake (funny little drum brake inside rear disc - does it work or not, engage on at least small slope and see if it holds.
8. Check Sir Sam's NOOB guide for hints. If the vehicle lacks owners manual (on shelf in top of glove box) download copy and check function of all instrument cluster warning lights (e.g. be sure they all pass the bulb self test when the ignition is switched on - NOTE glow plug lights for only like 2seconds so look a it first)
9. Fuel filter head - if the driver's side electric plug is bright blue it's the 2n gen head, if not it's 1st gen and needs replacing (comes with new fuel filter) - ca. $125
10. test drive to operating temp, find up slope like an on ramp, hammer throttle ignore dealer/owner copilot, expect excellent acceleration with fair amount of exhaust smoke but not enough so you cannot see the vehicles behind
11. figure $450 for GDE EcoTune to fix all sorts of "soot" issues and increase mpg ca. 20%
12. unless proof offered figure an immediate oil change to like Shell Rotella T-6 with filter - cost ca. $35 full fill is ca. 6.3 qts on stock size filter vs. 7qts on oversize filter, I like latter - at same time replace drain plug with Fumoto valve with safety clip ca. $45

2006 - needs Timing Belt job cost varies from DIY just replacing belt (assumes all pulleys and water pump are solid and don't need replacing) cost ca. $75 and about 5-6 hrs if you know what you are doing (FYI add new serp belt in the process - no extra time cost ca. $35) to $600 for all DIY parts including water pump (better figure on a weekend) to ca. $1,500 parts and labor to have done. Good new tires and align ca. $800. Figure this and any other problems into negotiation.

2005:
1. sellers (dealer or private) have no incentive to tell the whole truth. All dealer used cars are "1 owner" make them prove it with hard copy of chain of title (like CarFax) or better yet get name of owner and speak with that person about service record unless dealer can provide that record.
2. may or may not have had timing belt done, if not is way past due could fail at any time. Unless WRITTEN proof of TB job provided figure on doing the job like right after purchase.
3. slow start not uncommon if sitting a while could be battery, air in fuel (see fuel head note), really cold day, etc. Check subsequent cold starts, if still slow there is an issue.
4. whine under hood - look at idlers you can see for leaking grease, see decoupler note and look for LOTS of red dust on front of decoupler (a bit is ok lots is not), see is sound is coming from engine end of driver's side intercooler hose in which case it's likely the flow control valve gear (see chat on how to disable this unneeded item)

I think I got all that checked out when I looked at it the only things I missed were looking at the decoupler and the airbox to turbo side hose. all the other hoses looked good I reached around underneath everything and no soft spots etc.

The carfax was a boring read it is a one owner and only showed registration every year nothing else showed up.

I don't rmember the color of the fuel head plug but a new plug has been spliced in (nice job with heat shrink) so I assume it is the new style.

While looking at it I noticed it had MOPAR filters (including oil)on it so I assume it has been dealer serviced its whole life as it was a trade at a Toyota dealer. (Not that the Chrysler dealers are worth a sh*t)

It is at a wholesalers right now I spoke with the dealer and he seemed to be pretty straight he said he has zero history on the vehicle and knows nothing about them.

If I go to a Jeep dealer with the VIN will they be willing or able to pull up service records for me?

I really like the vehicle . I figure I will put up to $1K into engine upgrades/maintenance right off the bat
Thanks for all the help
Terrence

Terrence · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:11 am

BTW this Jeep was sold and lived most of its life in Mankato, MN just in case anyone knows it personally

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:20 am

Assuming the vehicle was serviced at a Chrysler/Jeep dealer and that they entered service records into the system then a helpful PARTS person (not a service writer) might be able/willing to see what's in the system and print you a copy. They can also print you a copy of the "build sheet" which shows what the vehicle came with. I've had the latter done but then the parts manager and I go way back even if the current service writers have the brains of the usual dealer service writer.

FYI on the Jeep web site you can key in the VIN number to see if there are any outstanding recalls.

Spliced in plug on the fuel head means it's likely the new head although the blue is a dead certainty. FYI all the ones I've seen are blue but I suppose it's possible some are not. Another check is on the 1st gen head the driver's side plug is noticeably smaller than the passenger side, on the 2gen gen head they are both essentially the same size.

I'll defer to others on price as I have no recent experience. My 2 last purchases were both in 2008 for ca. $16.5 + tx - my private sale 2005 Limited with 26k for well less than Progressive Insurance gave me for my 2005 Sport with 16k miles after their insuree rear ended me with a dump truck and stoutdog's 2006 Limited from a Honda dealer with about the same miles for about the same price and $1k less than the old window sticker we found under the seat after the purchase.

Terrence · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:55 pm

Well I bought it. :pepper:

I had a friend pull a favor and got the chrysler service records, but they only went to just outside the powertrain warranty. So I figured I would take a long shot and try and get in touch with the original owner. Turns out he is an executive at a large trade association and his email is on their website so I emailed him very politely and within an hour he returned my email saying he had the timing belt changed at 100K and has "very good records" at home. So I am now the proud owner of an atlantic blue 2005 KJ CRD High miles but this thing had to be well cared for. I asked the PO what he thought of it his words were "I really liked It"

I have a feeling it had a lot of biodiesel run through it as the trade association he is involved with is
MN Soybean Growers Association &
MN Soybean Research & Promotion Council

Next Tuesday it gets Emissions tested then the fun begins. Until then just a clean MAP and a closer inspection of everything

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:06 pm

You have a very cherry biodiesel friendly vehicle that has been well cared for .... I am envious.

High miles mean nothing to this engine if it was maintained right and since it was running on Biodiesel, all of the fuel related moving parts should be in great shape as well.

Biodiesel if known to extend the life of a diesel engine.

Congrats.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:55 pm

Good deal and nice job finding the original owner.

Terrence · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:44 pm

I just got home with the new ride and this email was waiting for me

The timing belt was replaced on March 19, 2009 at 96,587 miles at Lager's Jeep in Mankato, MN.

That Jeep was sort of a very controlled mid-life crisis sport vehicle that my wife permitted. She thinks it, but hated it's rough ride. I took actual ownership of it on May 19, 2005 and I let my son use it for a a trade in. Attached is excel sheet for each year I owned it. This should tell you everything you'd want to know, and probably much more about complete history. I only kept such detailed records on it repairs, fuel etc...because I was using it for business and a small farm driving about monthly 800 miles to/from MN to MO, I kept records of expenses for tax purposes. I was only owner, but first three years was as a farm vehicle lease from AgStar Credit, and I liked Jeep so much I just paid off lease and then kept driving it for 4 more...again even though wife hated ride. I probably should have gotten new vehicle for taxes much earlier. 95% of Jeep's miles are highway; or going to/from work; or long distance...not farm. It has exceptional towing capacity for it's size as a diesel...from time to time I would tow 5x8 or 6x10 UHaul covered carts...not often, but when needed to won't every notice pulling something. I used it to pull out a small tree stump on farm...didn't phase it. It'll average between 18 to 23 miles per gallon, you probably can get better mph if you keep it between 55-65 mph...I normally drove in low 70s. Things on Jeep did wear out, but I repaired and replaced whenever needed it to be.

I really liked it, and probably would have kept running it, but my son thought he needed a pickup. It definitely wasn't traded off because there was anything major wrong with it...as you can tell by the records I replaced a fuel injector about month before let him trade it.

Just let the glow plugs warm up engine before you start it, and I used to let it run minute on so in cold weather before driving out of the garage. I also liked to plug in it's engine heater when got 32 degrees or colder. It's been garaged for it's entire life. So take good care of it, and repair things as soon as they break. Then email me after you've drove it 150,000 miles....if I'm still alive maybe my wife will let me buy from you. Jim

So far I'm really happy with it and so is my wife which is good since it will be her daily driver, although she may have to fight me for it. its definitely more nimble than my escalade.

Mikey1273 I am from Hershey I just moved out to Colorado Springs a couple of months ago.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:57 am

Well it's cool to meet some from my area here, I also know Colorado spring a little bit. My brother and his wife lived there for a few years after college.

Your CRD really seems to have came from a good home. I am sure with a little help from this site it will see another 150,000 miles. hope mine does too I have planned to keep it as long as I can

Terrence · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:55 pm

i just got back from my first semi long trip in the CRD I filled up and reset my trip then filled up when I got back 107 Miles 95% Highway (Colorado Springs to Denver I-25 @ 70-75 MPH) When I refilled it took 3.4 Gallons That works out to about 31.5 MPG. I was pretty psych'd. My new Gps Nav Head unit comes Wednesday so I will be able to get some more accurate #s BTW the only thing I have done is the MAP clean, CAC hose clean and check and "Italian Tune up"

silence · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:45 pm

Cool another CRD in the Springs, I'll keep an eye out for you.

naturist · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:51 pm

Sounds to me like you got a good deal, @Torrance. Welcome to the LOST family.

155K miles on an 05 anything else I should look for?

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