I was told that 4-wheel ABS systems, especially on our Jeeps, are very perticular about being bled in the proper way. Can somebody post up the procedure for properly bleeding the brakes/changing the brake fluid from the service manual? I have a feeling this could be responsible for all the sticky brake issues KJ owners are reporting and mine acts weird too.

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2005 Stone White KJ Limited CRD 4x4
Off-Road Pkg
Trac-Lok
Emu 790s/948s
Skyjacker H7088s rear/Bilsteins front
15x7 Black Rock Lobos/31x10.50 Firestones
GDE HOT Tune + TCM Tune
Euro TC
CB radio
Thrush Turbo muffler
AEM DryFlow filter

Its no different than any other car. Start at the furtherest away from the Master Cylinder and work your way to the closest one. So it would be RR, LR, RF, LF.

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Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

On other vehicles, a true bleed of entire brake system requried bleeding of the ABS system. You can do a manual bleede fo bakes yourself but will need to take it to dealership for ABS bleed. However, I wouldn't trust my dealership to do this as many probably don't know about ABS bleed and would charge/perform a regular bleed you could do yourself. I'd put a piece of electrical tape over teh OBD port and it was still on, then you'd know it wasn't done right.

Page 5-228 from Liberty Factory Service Manual
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE BLEEDING
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The procedure
involves performing a base brake bleeding, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the HCU pump and
solenoids. A second base brake bleeding procedure is then required to remove any air remaining in the system.
1. Perform base brake bleeding, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
2. Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
3. Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS, then ABS BRAKES. Follow the instructions displayed.
When scan tool displays TEST COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.
4. Perform base brake bleeding a second time, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.

Open bleeder farthest away from MC, let drip until clear fluid comes out. Keep watch on MC so that it deosn't run dry. Close nipple. Go to next closest and so on until you get all of them gravity bled. No danger to ABS systems. Takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to do.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

Buy the "One Man Brake Bleeder" from Harbor Freight, some other store, or make one (plastic bottle with hose through cap that goes to the bottom). Follow the procedure above. The OMBB prevents sucking any air back into the brake hydraulics and helps prevent making a mess on the driveway or garage floor. Also with the OMBB you can speed up the process by pumping the peddle a few times, just watch the brake fluid and the OMBB every two to three pumps.
I have a reaction (bad rash) to straight DOT 3 but not to DOT 3/4 Synthetic, so I flush out the DOT-3 and dispose of it. I have done this for years and even when I had the shop with no problems. The DOT 3/4 Synthetic seems to last longer and is less harsh on the brake system components.
DOT 5 Synthetic is for antique cars that only get driven up onto and off the trailer to go to shows or in parades. I would never put DOT 5 Synthetic in my Jeep or my Wife's TDI, it does not react to heat very well.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I used to have one of those and was not happy with the results when I used it on a 67 Mustang.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

Get a garden sprayer cheap one from walmart ect ect 1 gal type for $20 or so then buy a set up bleed screws from any auto parts store.. you may want to order and 2nd cap for you master cylinder, I just drilled a hole in mine and put one of my spare bleed screws in the cap hole, make sure the hole you drill is smaller than than the bleed screw, screw the bleed screw into the cap then cut the hose in of the sprayer off and attach to the bleed screw, you can even add a pressure gage between the hose and the pump. put two litters of clean brake fluid in and pump to about 10 psi of 20 pumps..open your bleed screws on your vehicle furthers from the master and bleed..the beauty of they system is your adding brake fluid to the system under pressure and also pushing the fluid you already have in the system and it works beautiful. don't put to much pressure or you may blow your seals.

I have switched to using ATE Racing Blue brake fluid on all my vehicles for the following reasons:

-Lower moisture uptake;
-longer service life;
-higher boiling point;
-compatible with all other regular DOT-4 fluids;
-comes in a metal can and has a virtually indefinite shelf life.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel