Hi all,
Just lifted the KJ today and fitted ALJ,S front A arms the front had sagged so bad that there was almost no travel left in the springs, I'm not able to get the alignment done till next week, but the handling is so bad I don't even want to drive it till the alignment is done, but I need to use the Jeep, so my question is can some tell me how to adjust the alignment to a ball park position, so I can use it . Do I need to give it more or less toe in and dose the lower A arm need to move in closer to the centre of the Jeep or out more to the wheel arch.

You can set the toe-in good enough to slowly drive it to the Alignment shop with a tape measure if you are careful. The tape measure trick will not correct caster and camber and the Liberty may pull like mad one way or another. A digital level can be used to set caster and camber, then you could do the toe in with a tape measure after setting the caster and camber. It will take hours doing it by hand instead of minuets using an alignment machine. I have done it both ways, but paying for a good shop to use an alignment machine is much easier. .
So you can drive to the alignment shop, I would use the inside tire bead edge of rims as your measuring point and adjust the toe in to 0.0" to start with. Try to go as close as possible to being at the center of the wheel on both the front and rear; then adjust it the best you can. Another way to do it is with two pieces of angle iron clamped together with vise grips or a small C clamp. If you can get a straight shot between the inside of the rims like 10"-12" (or more) off the ground both front and rear with out hitting the under-carriage,go for it.

Good Luck

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Setting camber/caster on a KJ is not a "do in your driveway" thing since both are adjusted by the 2 LCA mount bolts which have encentric washers on them.It takes a delicate balance moving both to get camber,caster in spec.

The camber and toe will be way out and you most likely will have almost zero caster on the LF as most do after lifting.

Caster and camber adjustment can be done with a digital level, better with two digital levels, but:
1) You would have to be nuts and have a lot of time on your hands.
2) Unless you are a Millwright, Mechanical Contractor, or wound up tight Inspector, why would you need two digital levels?
3) The cost of 1 good digital level is more than an alignment.
4) Cost of an alignment is cheaper than the cost of a Divorce (because your wife would know you are a complete idiot and be done with you on the spot), even a Cheapie Divorce using only 1 Lawyer.
So, unless the camber is so far off you can see it standing in front, just set the toe-in to drive it to the alignment shop. One other trick is to line up all the clamps and cams to their original positions if you ever install a lift kit, then set the toe-in so you can drive it slowly to the alignment shop.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Thanks got it driving nice now , used the old string string from the back wheel trick I'd say it's 95% there , which will do till I get the alignment done, which will have to wait till the lower A arm bush's are replaced, not that they are gone but the cam bolts are seized , not even a really BFH can't move them!