Changing the rear brake shoes and rotors and have a question

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:01 pm

Ok.....so I feel pretty silly asking this question.....especially after having done the front rotors and pads with no issues. My question is: Is there some trick to getting the calipers off after removing the 2 mounting bolts? I removed the 2 mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the mounting bracket on the rear and it seemed kinda' weird. Something appeared to be holding the caliper on still. It looks like the pads themselves have a tab that slides under the caliper mounting bracket and keeps you from removing the caliper from the rotor and mounting bracket. Am I supposed to pry the caliper off the rotor with the pads still on the rotor and then remove the pads once the rotor is off?

I looked at the FSM and it says to remove the caliper and then remove the pads but I don't see how that is possible as there is a part of the pad that is under the caliper mounting bracket and holding the caliper in place even after the slide pin bolts are removed. Also....these are the OEM brake pads that came on the Jeep.
Thanks, Jim

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:16 pm

It just dawned on me.....I didn't fully remove the slide pin bolts. I just loosened them and pulled them out part of the way. They have to come out fully to pull the caliper off correct?

Jim

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:21 pm

Must be some rust that is making the caliper hard to remove.
Removing the rear rotors with drums inside is another matter, remember to loosen up the brake shoe adjuster inside under the rubber plug. If you are lucky and don't live in the salt belt, after adjusting the brake shoe adjustment all the way, the rust ridge will not prevent you from pulling the drum. I live in Illinois and had to beat the rotor/drum assembly a lot and on one side split the drum to get it off. The shoes and hardware were trashed and I had to drill out the aluminum pop rivets that hold on the backing plate onto the axle and secure it with socket head cap screws.

Of course you will need to pull the rear axles if the backing plate rivets fail when you pull the rotors/drums.
http://s362.photobucket.com/albums/oo69 ... %20plates/
Good luck, hope you don't have any salt around you.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:32 pm

Thanks for the reply. So basically....you are saying that after I completely remove the 2 slider pin bolts....there is nothing else holding the caliper in place....correct? The ironic thing is that it feels like the rotor will come right off with the parking brake released. I played with the rotor for a second and it had some wiggle to it so I think it will come off easy.

Thanks, Jim

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:05 pm

Ok....so I got the job done. I was just having a brain fart on the calipers coming off. Just looking at the shoes on the caliper.....specifically the outboard one with the little tab that hooks under the caliper mounting bracket.....it didn't look like they would pivot up and out but they did with a little coaxing. 104,000 miles on the original brakes.

I did get lucky and the rotors came off with no problems. The driver's side basically slid off with just wiggling it with my hands and the passenger side just took 2 quick knocks with the tire iron. Glad that is done.

Jim

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 08, 2012 4:50 pm

Avoid trips to the salt belt or coast if you can.
You saw what it did to mine.

Changing the rear brake shoes and rotors and have a question

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