Injectors not firing after valve cover removal. *SOLVED!*

maxwellp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:43 pm

I keep coming back to the cam sensor. It has to get this signal to start.

galatron · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:52 pm

I just ordered a new one, it was 45 bucks, I can't seem to figure out how to test it... maby I dropped it or something,,, I don't know, eitherway it is on the way and I'll find out in a few days.

galatron · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:38 pm

So, for anyone interested, my total repair bill - so far with me doing all the labor (about 15 hours) is, and for:
New oem thermostat, gasket, airintake hose, samco hoses, rockers, orings, copper rings, cam shaft sensor, new radiator, and special tools, comes to about 1500 bucks.
I got the dealer we bought the CRD from to reimburse me for 500 of that, and I sold the EGR valve/cooler on ebay for 100 bucks to some guy in New Mexico. I plan on selling the old, and now repaired radiator for 200 on fleabay. All in all I've "spent" 700 on repairs for this jeep, which I "got" for 7500.

Belive it or not, even though it won't start, and my wife's loosing faith in me (but kindly backing progress!) I'm still happy. I feel good and confident that we will get this puppy running again and that'll show them! by gawd.

(If I dissapear in the next week, it will be because we've gone on vacation to get one of these: http://www.nabocker.com/site/node/33 and :CAMPING:

, not because something nefarious happened)

Randy B · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:49 pm

Have been following this thread. Looking on page 2 of the Diesel Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures, 3.2.2. Engine Startup Mode, The Emc uses the engine Temperature sensor and the crankshaft position sensor( engine speed) inputs to determine fuel injection quantity. Flow chart on page 292 Engine Cranks but will not start.Test 1 No codes present go to test 2, check for SKIMS code, none go to 3. Using a temperature probe check the vehicle temperature near the ECT sensor. Turn key on is reading with in 10C between probe and scanner. If not replace ECT sensor. If same go to 4. Glowplug test. Glow plugs test ok go to 5 Inspect fuel lines for restricitions leaks ect. Note refer to Service Information to ensure that the fuel system is properly primed. And unprime system or excessive air in the supply system will cause a no start. Test 6, read Cam position Sensor RPM, should read a steady 1/2 of engine rpm when cranking. If not 1/2 check wiring connections to CMP sensor, replace CMP. If reading okay then go to test7 When cranking check CKP sensor RPM approximately double the speed of the CMP RPM? If not check wiring, replace CKP sensor, reading ok, go to test 8 Make sure camshaft gears, and crankshaft gears are timed correctly,. ECT Engine Coolant Sensor, CKP crankshaft sensor, CMP camshaft sensor. Hope this helps, I will try and scan the Diesel Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures so that we can have them on this site.

maxwellp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:53 pm

You will get it. I will look into how to test the cam sensor and maybe even take the one off my jeep. there has to be away to see it with a scan tool. But you may need a DRBIiI scaner.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:03 pm

Yes or NO....did you disconnect and reconnect the electrical connectors you fooled with while doing the TB work?

galatron · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:14 pm

Yes. I have checked and really checked every connector on the engine and ecm. I did not disconnect harness from right side of engine and lay over as described in fsm as it seemed to be more of a hassle than it was worth.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:17 pm

Did you check for pushed pins or a wire broken inside the connector on the camshaft position sensor?

If you open the 2006 FSM in Adobe reader and go to page 3423, there are numerous tests you run can on the sensor and wiring. I believe you checked voltages but did you check for resistances? open ciruits? bad grounds? shorts?

galatron · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:25 pm

yep, looked at those three pins on the cam sensor, all look good, but I don't know what to look for when testing the internals of the sensor. as i said before, with the ignition on, I read 2.5, 5vdc and ground in the plug. I don't want to punture the wires to put my leads on them, once I find my bed o' nails leads I'll test with the scope.
Which by the way, if you want to buy a scope for diagnosis, but don't have funds to purchase a zillion dollar scope, here's what I use, and it was a hundred bucks...
http://www.makershed.com/DSO_Nano_V2_0_p/mkseeed11.htm

Flow chart on page 292 Engine Cranks but will not start.
Test 1 No codes present go to
no codes
Test 2, check for SKIMS code, none go to
no skims
Test 3. Using a temperature probe check the vehicle temperature near the ECT sensor. Turn key on is reading with in 10C between probe and scanner. If not replace ECT sensor. If same go to
temp probe - it's pretty warm here?
Test 4. Glowplug test. Glow plugs test ok go to
Glow plugs are fine, I replaced one that went bad, checked all four with resistance.
Test 5 Inspect fuel lines for restricitions leaks ect. Note refer to Service Information to ensure that the fuel system is properly primed. And unprime system or excessive air in the supply system will cause a no start.
Turbobill and I made a very intricate fuel testing system she's gettin fuel
Test 6, read Cam position Sensor RPM, should read a steady 1/2 of engine rpm when cranking. If not 1/2 check wiring connections to CMP sensor, replace CMP. If reading okay then go to
Can't find my bed o'nails - new CMP ordered.
Test7 When cranking check CKP sensor RPM approximately double the speed of the CMP RPM? If not check wiring, replace CKP sensor, reading ok, go to
Haven't tried this yet, but inspection looks like it was replaced earlier by dealer. - ugh.
Test 8 Make sure camshaft gears, and crankshaft gears are timed correctly.
Turbobill and I are absolutly positively 100% sure that we're dead-on time.

Thank you VERY MUCH for your suggestions! I'll report back later once I find those darn leads.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:40 pm

Ah..you already replied before I edited my post...see above.

Which pins read what? Was pin 3 = 2.5 Volts? or was it pin 2?

galatron · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:53 pm

I don't remember, but I've got to do family stuff now... I'll be back later tonight.

turbobill · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:04 pm

Harlan, you need an inductive pickup for your scope. Put it on your signal lead and you should see the pulse from the hall effect sensor. Is it possible that you got something stuck on the sensor when you had the top off? If you havn;t already done it, you may want to pull the sensor and just take a look at it. Bill

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:20 pm

You said that you put clear tubing on the return block and that fuel was coming out. Can you put the clear tubing in place of the rubber hose coming off of the fuel rail at the back of the engine?

The No. 4 injector and the PCV on the rail have the same connector, if you get them switched then you won't build any rail pressure and, hence, it won't run.
They are electrically similar enough that I don't think you set a fault (I did this once upon a time, but my memory escapes me if we set a fault).

You can also pin-out the sensors to the ECU to make sure that the right sensor is connected to the right wiring.

galatron · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:28 pm

OH MY GOD!!!!!!!
IT lives!!! :BANANA:

THAT WAS IT! I had those dang connectors backwards.....
I can't belive it...
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!

maxwellp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:36 pm

Well that is a great way to end today. :mrgreen:

I will not forget this one. :pepper:

galatron · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:41 pm

You are not kidding, I litterally jumped up from playing monopoly with the kids to try swapping those connectors. a few moments later there was an audience at the garage door waiting with beers and applause. It was amazing... I mean really really amazing!!!

ibHenry · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:19 am

For future info, the SKIMM will let the engine start briefly then shut the engine off. :JEEPIN:

Randy B · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:57 am

Glad you got her running.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:12 am

turbobill · **Posted:** Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:28 pm

Well, I guess I got lucky when I did mine. Never even considered that the two plugs would interchange. This factoid MUST be placed in TECH section. Had it been there Harlon would have save himself about a month.

Injectors not firing after valve cover removal. SOLVED!

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