I'm hearing noise from the front and can't tell if it is the engine (normal eng sound) or the drive train. The noise is continous at 55 and gets quieter as I speed up. Its' not loud at all at 45. It seems to be RPM connected. It also gets louder when you let off the peddle. I'm use to my cummins sound so I'm not sure what these 4L's should sound like much less with an automatic. I saw some other posts that were talking about a HUMM and the front differental bearings but not sure if that was the same as what I'm hearing. If I was to take it to a shop could they diagnose it or is the diesel thing going to most likely confuse them?

Thanks

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John
2 X 2006 CRD Sport
Mine Light Blue, Hers Dark Blue
GDE ECO Tune
Fumoto
Samco Hoses

More connected with MPH than RPM, right? (i.e. not parked and revving the engine).

So, it's something mechanical (likelihood) such as CV joints, U-Joint, bearings, brakes, differential, transfer case.. perhaps motor mount.

Any shop would examine the physically accessible parts (e.g. u-joints, CV, bearings while on a lift) and take it for a test drive.

Most good mechanics will be able to hear and home in on things advanced enough to be failing and generating noise. They've got some good tools for that too.

Occasionally - these things are subtle but in this case it's not really a 'diesel' thing as all the parts I've listed are common to the 3.7L gas engines. I don't think the engine noise will mask it too much.

You might pop the hood and watch the belt around the alternator and particularly the tensioner (bottom left while facing the grille). If the clutch on your alternator pulley is failing you'll see a bouncing and jerking, hear a rattle and possibly some belt squeal, and start to experience tensioner/idler/belt failures.

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Thanks Mark,

I'm in the process of re-tapping my oil drain and putting a Fumoto valve in and pulled the front wheels to have better access. I noticed that the brakes drag like with the wheel off it takes quite a bit of effort to turn the rotors. I have not noticed this on other cars I have worked on usually they turn freely. Could this be the noise I'm hearing? I heard that Liberty brakes drag and can rob fuel milage something to do with the caliper boot.

John

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John
2 X 2006 CRD Sport
Mine Light Blue, Hers Dark Blue
GDE ECO Tune
Fumoto
Samco Hoses

Yes, that could be the source of your noise. Something in the caliper is seizing - typically a rubber boot allows water either into the piston or the pins (some brake shops don't bother using silicone grease on the pins..grrrrrr). Either way, they rust or jam, failing to retract fully.. reducing mileage, and causing uneven wear. Typically the inside pad will reach metal before the outside gets halfway worn. The noise could be grinding of the inside pad on the rotor. Worth pulling the tire to check out. Replacement calipers are typically $30 at Cost-less. Cures the whole problem. ; ' )

Re: repairing the oil pan... I'm doing the same for my daughter's Dodge Intrepid (Aluminum oil pain.. ah, pan). The local oil-change grease monkeys have stripped it and the oversized plug both, so I picked up a Time-sert kit (14mm / 1.5pitch) to give it a healthy steel thread and have a Fumoto valve on the way to avoid the need to ever strip them again.

Of course, some knot-head may try and wrench the Fumoto...

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Checked the belt and it looks good no squealing or jumping. I think you are correct about the calipers so going down that road to see where it leads me.

I thought about the Timesert but $183 for the kit was a little expensive. So I went the drill, tap and Fumoto route. I always change my oil so don't let the monkeys get at the Fomuto. I just bought this CDR last year and was changing the oil when I got that sinking feeling as the wrench handle got loose. The Timesert is trick though.

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John
2 X 2006 CRD Sport
Mine Light Blue, Hers Dark Blue
GDE ECO Tune
Fumoto
Samco Hoses

I found a decent price for the Time Sert here: http://www.denlorstools.com/

E-Mail: dltinfo@denlorstools.com

$120.59 - 1415C DLT TIME-SERT 1415C Oil Drain Plug Repair - Aluminum Pan 14x1.5
$27.41 - LIS70940 Lisle 70940 3 PC. TAP SOCKET SET

If you have trouble getting the Fumoto to 'stick'.

Also - since I have the kit, I may be persuaded to loan it out to the LOST Bro's.

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Good links. My fumoto is in and works great. Thanks for all the help.

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John
2 X 2006 CRD Sport
Mine Light Blue, Hers Dark Blue
GDE ECO Tune
Fumoto
Samco Hoses

Might want to check the rubber brake lines at the wheels too. I had to replace both last year on mine, both were buldging in spots, the r/s had 5 total & was about to burst.

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2000 Dodge SLT 4x4 CTD Intense Blue, a few go fast goodys

2006 Limited CRD 4x4 Inferno Red, GDE ECO tune

Ditto on the brake line thing - I notice two of 'em while replacing the rear lower control arms and have a full set waiting to be installed.

Ever had one of 'em blow?! Really inconvenient at times...

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

I have it going into the shop today will have them check the brake lines too.

Thanks,

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John
2 X 2006 CRD Sport
Mine Light Blue, Hers Dark Blue
GDE ECO Tune
Fumoto
Samco Hoses

Took it to the shop and the breakes on the front needed replacement along with the front right wheel bearing. Noise all gone now.

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John
2 X 2006 CRD Sport
Mine Light Blue, Hers Dark Blue
GDE ECO Tune
Fumoto
Samco Hoses