in hose thermostat -(no housing)

dennhop · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:30 am

Did mine last week. I saw the preexisting hole in the Tstat, but I went ahead and drilled out another one anyway...I can't remember what size I used right now, but I think it may have been 1/32? One of the smaller ones. For a week now, it's been sitting just to the left of center, and running fine. Haven't noticed any spikes, but I also haven't been able to get a good mileage track on it, as the past week has been a lot of quick runs, stop and go, and idle. I'll try in the next couple of weeks to check and see if my mileage has gone up any.

jmoomaw · **Posted:** Thu May 24, 2012 9:07 pm

racertracer wrote:

If your temperature guage spikes into the red zone and you hear 3 consecutive bells deriving from your dash, consider your head gasket pretty much done, if not, then you dodged a bullet.

I am very grateful then...I may have dodge the bullet. My in line thermostat failed in a closed position and I heard the three beeps..what a pain that was.

The cars is running fine now...what would the symptoms from a blown head gaskets.

Thanks...Jim

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu May 24, 2012 9:12 pm

jmoomaw wrote:

racertracer wrote:

If your temperature guage spikes into the red zone and you hear 3 consecutive bells deriving from your dash, consider your head gasket pretty much done, if not, then you dodged a bullet.

I am very grateful then...I may have dodge the bullet. My in line thermostat failed in a closed position and I heard the three beeps..what a pain that was.

The cars is running fine now...what would the symptoms from a blown head gaskets.

Thanks...Jim

1. Coolant in the overflow bottle and coolant trickling down the firewall

2. High pressure under the radiator cap.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:38 am

Did mine today. Drilled a 1/16" hole. Per Torque software, temp fluctuates between 188 and 194. Temp gauge stays just left of 1200hours. Tried the heat and it cooks! Now lets see how my mileage will be.

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dennhop · **Posted:** Fri Jun 22, 2012 1:19 am

Ive put some miles on since I did my Tstat, and it seems to definitely help. I was able to get (hand calculated) 30 mpgs on the way to Indiana and back, going through the hills in WV. daily driving, I'm averaging around 24 mpgs or so, maybe a little bit higher. Still haven't gotten any spikes in temps, and with the clamp, the tstat hasn't moved an inch.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 7:13 pm

Has anyone did some real towing with real high temps yet using the 195 thermostat? I am debating if I want to play it safe and use the 180 (I ordered both) or just go without a thermostat when towing. I will be towing a camper, 3 adults and 1 kid, in August, going from RI to Hershey Park. There are some good pulls in PA, if you're not familiar with the territory.

Right now, I am leaning on taking it out for the trip.... It's not like it's a hard thing to do.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:04 pm

Define "real hard pulls" and "hot temps" for us please.

I have the 195 degree in-hose thermostat, and no engine cooling fan. In 85 degree ambient temps, I was pulling around a 3500 lb towable generator without any rise in temperature at all - The gauge stays at just-barely-left-of-vertical.

While NOT towing, and in 93 degree temps, I noticed today that my AC performance was reduced (it wasn't as cold as it could be) while I was in slow traffic, but once I was moving steadily at 50+mph, the AC cooled to the point where I couldn't hold my hand in front of the vents. I already have the Hayden clutch, I'm just waiting until I get the plastic blades before I install the new cooling fan - More for my own comfort as the engine has proven that it doesn't need it for itself.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:32 pm

As for the pulls, this is from a trucker friend. I never towed on this route.

I do have the hayden on its way. You feel with this setup, I can run WOT at 45 without any issues?

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geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:54 pm

EGT is more your enemy on hills while towing, rather than engine heat - EGT builds MUCH faster and can do really bad things if you don't keep a handle on it.

That said, Keith at GDE has said that our turbos are capable of running at 1200 degrees (measured post-turbo) all day long. The turbo drops about 300 degrees from a pre-turbo probe's reading (where I have mine) so bear that in mind with the following:

There is a bridge in Savannah that I have to cross all the time - 280 feet from the waterline, and I'm starting only about 10 feet above the water to climb it. 1 mile long end-to-end, so I figure it is about a 10 percent grade, but that is a total guess. Somebody else can do that math.

Anyway, I take this bridge sometimes at 45 b/c of slow traffic, and I see my EGT gauge reading in the 1300 range, and 1400-1500 when yanking that generator. Lock out the OD gears, and the temps are lower. Remember - I'm reading my EGT at the HOTTEST POINT possible, so if Keith says our CRD can run at 1200 post-turbo all day... That is the same 1500 degrees I see on that bridge for 30 seconds or so. Not any problem, but that is a short grade.

How heavy is your trailer? Load inside the Jeep isn't really a concern for me with your setup, the CRD is more than capable of moving a full interior... WIND will be your real factor if your trailer is big, that will add more load than the physical weight does.

There aren't really any man-sized mountains on the East Coast, so I'm not terribly concerned about the setup, I'd probably do it, but if I was below 60mph (or at 60 in windy conditions) I would kick it out of OD to add some more HP and reduce the engine's overall load. High torque / low RPM means you are doing BIG work... But you are also pushing big EGT and loading your cooling system more. Keep an eye on that temp gauge, and leave the engine running while you are getting drinks / refueling / etc so that the turbo has a LONG TIME to cool down. Ditto for at the end of the drive, plan on a solid 5 minutes or more just letting it idle while you do whatever. The lower your power demand from the engine, the colder it will run on a diesel. Demand = heat.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:23 am

http://gulfstreamrvtrailers.com/amerilite/floorplans/24BH.php
These are the specs. I am planning to carry little water to save weight.

Thanks for the info about EGTs pre and post turbo. I would love to have a Pyro pre turbo, but that would be a pain. When I had my 91, I was told 1200 was the number not to exceed. I cannot remember which side of the turbo the Pyro probe was in.

I guess I will keep it is with the 195. I will have a little tool kit with me just in case.

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ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:02 pm

To the inline thermostat
at 100F outside - just stop and go traffic - scangauge said I hit 203F... (of course the gauge never moves)

I think that's way too high for unloaded casual driving,
if I was towing or driving in the mountains - I'd pull the Stant.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:25 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

(of course the gauge never moves)

My temp gauge never moved past the half way mark either when my head gasket went south, both times.

Something is defenitely wrong with the way the engine temp is monitored in this CRD.

We need an early warning device that will accurately monitor temperature spikes and if the OEM system can't do the job, then we need to find a way to install an aftermarket temp sensor somewhere else on the engine with a separate gauge.

Or another option could be to relocate the existing sensor to a more appropriate location on the engine.

Becasue If I experienced this condition twice so far and others have also .....like the previous poster did, then there must be something wrong. Just my :2cents:

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:46 am

ATXKJ wrote:

To the inline thermostat
at 100F outside - just stop and go traffic - scangauge said I hit 203F... (of course the gauge never moves)

I think that's way too high for unloaded casual driving,
if I was towing or driving in the mountains - I'd pull the Stant.

203 is what I would consider a normal temperature for those conditions, especially with the MUCH reduced airflow of stop-and-go traffic. You are only picking up 8 degrees from the opening temperature of the Stant, why be concerned with such a low fluctuation?

Now if you said you picked up 20+ degrees... Then I would be concerned.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2012 7:43 pm

This one's been running ~ 191F pretty consistently - with virtually no change for traffic
(I have the Hayden fan clutch and plastic fan)

but that's at 30-90 outside temp - at 100F outside I think there's not enough water flow
so next time I'm under the hood I'll pull the in-hose thermostat and see.

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 1:05 am

With the cold coming soon I thougt I would post my recent findings:

I have the Meizene inline Stat and recently saw my temp spike. I was traveling on I90 in south Dakota with a fully loaded jeep going 70-75 mph with the outside air at 100 degrees and a/c on max. The temperature gauge got up to 3/4 before I noticed the spike. I reduced a/c and that helped but I had to drop speed to below 70 on some hills to keep the needle at halfway. I will be going back to factory thermostats for piece of mind.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:08 am

arengant wrote:

With the cold coming soon I thougt I would post my recent findings:

I have the Meizene inline Stat and recently saw my temp spike. I was traveling on I90 in south Dakota with a fully loaded jeep going 70-75 mph with the outside air at 100 degrees and a/c on max. The temperature gauge got up to 3/4 before I noticed the spike. I reduced a/c and that helped but I had to drop speed to below 70 on some hills to keep the needle at halfway. I will be going back to factory thermostats for piece of mind.

Did you have the 180* or 190* version? For my own piece of mind I'm simply thinking of going to the 180* fail-safe. That way you have no worries of failure in the closed position and a bit of leeway in operating temps.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:28 am

I had the 180 version while towing. It spiked on hills. I took it out and it went up once on one really long hill. So removing it helped bit didn't solve it. I will not be towing again with one in. But I will use it (190 i bought both) for daily driving. I am a fuel guy, and rarely get above 65 and am easy with the throttle.

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jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 9:12 am

I pulled mine as well. I was pulling a trailer 3000 pounds. Had the temp start to climb to almost 3/4 so turned the heater on in 100 * day . That was a lot of fun. I think replace the factory one before winter. It been fine ever since.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 3:01 pm

Thats weird how different the experience has been. I've towed my Wrangler on several occasions without a single hicccup and driven cross country a couple times to the same effect. But seeing what "might happen" I'm ordering the 180* fail safe today and gutting the factory unit. I think that is the problem here. Too much restriction between the half open factory unit and the inline Stant. If only having one or the other, you'd be fine.

arengant · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:16 pm

I think gutting it would be a great idea, but I haven't looked at how hard that would be. Any writeups on here?

in hose thermostat -(no housing)

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