What did you do to your CRD today?

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Jul 14, 2012 1:42 pm

I have my Hayden fan clutch and nylon gasser fan blades finally installed. Luckily I have never had an issue getting the fan off with just a big crescent wrench!

CRD'syeruncle · **Joined:** Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:31 am **Posts:** 22

Popped the back wheels off again and installed the parking brakes spring kit. Low and behold, like almost new. Next I tackled the fuel filter. While I was dubious, the difference was quite noticeable. Took about 15 minutes, and I took the advice of others and bagged the old filter, and new, removing and reinstalling. No issues priming either; it took 6 good pumps and a quick tighten, turned it over, and she purred. That makes 4 out of the five Sir Sam's noob guide recommends done.

Kgeisler2010 · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:56 pm **Posts:** 66

got a dodge cummins in tank lift pump installed!! i think the hardest part was tearing out and putting back in the back seat to get to the wiring.. also learned that the PO had kids as there was lot of animal crackers and a substance that smelled like puke in and under the carpet :banghead:

teckman02 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 15, 2012 11:35 pm

Kgeisler2010 wrote:

got a dodge cummins in tank lift pump installed!! i think the hardest part was tearing out and putting back in the back seat to get to the wiring.. also learned that the PO had kids as there was lot of animal crackers and a substance that smelled like puke in and under the carpet :banghead:

Sounds like it is time to take out the seats and carpet and clean it out

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:00 pm

Today I got the L27 recall done. Free, beefy parts how cool!

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:38 pm

Installed new brake pads front and rear, Wagner Thermo Quiet. Installed new rotors in front.

Trying to beat the rain, I did not flush the brake fluid; will do it soon though. Also need to adjust the emergency brake shoes.

Hoosier CRD

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2012 12:15 pm

Friday I took it to the dealer to figure out which sensor is tripping the ABS light... 40 bucks later they tell me it's my rear AND front left, weird that it was both.

I changed out the rear, but the NEW sensor is bad because now I get the ABS and brake light on. I put the old sensor back in and moved to the front. The front sensor was seized into the hub so I had to drill it out. With the new front and old rear sensor, my ABS light is off!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2012 5:55 pm

Hoosier CRD wrote:

Installed new brake pads front and rear, Wagner Thermo Quiet. Installed new rotors in front.

Trying to beat the rain, I did not flush the brake fluid; will do it soon though. Also need to adjust the emergency brake shoes.

Hoosier CRD

Let me know how those Wagner's go, been looking to get away from standard comp anyways.

CRD'syeruncle · **Joined:** Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:31 am **Posts:** 22

So I'm in the midst of doing a rad flush, and it seems to be taking forever to drain the rad. I haven't got to the flush stage and it's been at least three hours. When I first opened the petcockit was a steady stream, but now it's just dripping, and it's supposed to hold 10 L?

Any input from the membership?

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 4:18 am

You may need to detach the lower radiator hose.

slasher · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:14 am

Might sound stupid but worked on every other car I've had, blow into the filler bottle, you have taken the cap off haven't you?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:59 am

CRD'syeruncle - ideally use the trick at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=56398 to open the radiator drain plug; remove the coolant tank/radiator cap; once the coolant tank has drained open the plug on the top (passenger side) of the radiator to speed up draining by turning it counter clockwise (if you want you can turn it so the white line on the flange points to 4 o'clock and then pulling straight up to remove it). On refill close the bottom radiator drain but leave that passenger side plug open while pouring coolant (1.6 gallons of undiluted HOAT antifreeze) in followed by demineralized water until fluid starts to come out of that plug; replace plug and close it; continue the fill of the coolant tank until about 1/2" above the cold line. Doing the fill this way will minimize air in the system by venting it out the passenger side radiator vent but air won't be completely purged until you have done a couple of drive cycles (engine to operating temp and full cool down) which should lower the fluid in the coolant tank to about the right level but you may have to add just a bit.

CRD'syeruncle · **Joined:** Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:31 am **Posts:** 22

Yes, to the radiator cap. At about the three and half hour mark it stopped trickling, so I closed the petcock. I never looked closely at the top of the rad to see if there was another breather, but I did get out just under 8qts. I poured in the flush and topped up with water. The Instructions say six hours of driving, straight or intermittent, then water, then the 50/50. It just surprised me it was so slow draining. I fiddled with the petcock multiple times to increase flow temporarily (half turns, wire up the spout to loosen possible scales), but then back to a trickle, drip. Guess we shall see how slow it is on the draining of the flush solution tonight...

jinstall · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:42 pm

Heater valve?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:53 pm

The heater has no valve; I've read and looked. Heat or cool depends on movement of blend doors.

I can tell you when I first drained mine, yes just in case the vehicle was cranked up and heat turned on and then engine shut off, fluid ran out just fine until the tank drained and then it went into dribble mode until I opened that top radiator valve. I don't know the ins and outs of the CRD coolant plumbing but I suspect pulling a small vacuum as coolant tries to drain thru the tstat bypass has something to do with the slow drain. Of course pulling the top radiator hose would probably do the same thing but that's a minor hassle.

bugnout · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:23 pm

I just did a coolant drain and fill this weekend, used a vacuum cleaner (through a rag) set to blow to get another liter or so out of the system.

I drained and filled with distilled water, drove it for about 30 miles total with the heater on, getting it up to temp then cool. Bleed using the reservoir cap, radiator vent and pushing fluid through the top radiator hose until all air stopped coming out. left it overnight without either vent or radiator cap.

This morning, drained and filled again, this time with Zerex and distilled water, then another couple of cycles of heating to operating temp then cooling, venting air often. Coolant is now nice and clear.

Kudo's to Squeeto for the idea to cut a 2cm section from 10mm allen wrench, made the job very easy. Only wish I had a 10mm gear wrench with a swivel head. That would have been the perfect tool for the job.

Kgeisler2010 · **Joined:** Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:56 pm **Posts:** 66

cut out the cat and muffler, and welded in a straight pipe!! l love the sound and smell of the diesel!!

CRD'syeruncle · **Joined:** Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:31 am **Posts:** 22

Ok, I found the petcock on top, and I drained the flush solution after about 3 hours of driving around; this time it came out readily, though I only got out about 9 qts. It's color was still like the rad fluid, so I guess I will see how it comes out after the distilled water cycle. I also noticed a slight tranny rad leak on the return hose misting the underside near the driver's side tire. I suspected that the previous owners hit a deer at some point. I guess it will be on the list when I do the timing belt...

JPinnell · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:34 am

I did the Level 3 TB Swap, flushed the coolant, and put an inline thermostat in. A VERY LONG weekend.

- JP

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:33 pm

I installed treacled bump stops up front. 5 minutes with some silicone spray and a pry bar

What did you do to your CRD today?

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