Had my 2005 crd since november of this year with no issues.

Today i drove it about 5 miles with no issues, parked it for 6 or so hours and when got in to go home it was acting weird.
First when I put it in reverse to back out it shuddered or sputtered... not sure how to describe but it felt like it might stall and sputtered, as soon as gave it throttle it ran normal. Also in drive it does the same thing from a dead stop. I took it home and unplugged the battery just to try to reset anything that might be a dumb DC issue. When i got back in and started it to warm it up the CEL was on and it was still shuddering/sputtering when i would barely push on the peddle, but if I gave her throttle she responded normal... Took it to get scanned and two codes came up, but the guy didn't get the numbers, but the descriptions were: 1. EGR flow insufficient, and 2. Something with the MAF.

The research i have done tonight is leading me to diagnose the issue as being my EGR is clogging up or needs cleaned/replaced. I assume that if the EGR is fixed to MAF code will go away.

What are my options? (looked at GDE, Replacing parts, and SEGR (but don't understand it because cannot find info on how to do it.)

Is it totally safe to unplug the MAF and run it for now? alot of people say to do that temporary but I don't want to hurt anything else.

What is the best/ easiest/ way to delete the EGR or trick the ECU?

I would prefer to delete it from the system but I need the CEL to stay off. (im pretty sure in MD diesels are exempt from emmisions test with obdII scanner but know light cant be on.)

Will the GDE or similar programmer shut down the EGR enough that the jeep will run normal w/o servicing the egr?

Thanks again and I eagerly look forward to your responses.

Todd

EGR issues are common with this CRD, I would have to guess you are nearing 100k or just past it.

The GDE tune will remove the EGR and the FCV from the equation and not throw a CEL for you. That is your best and overall cheapest option.

Lots of folks on here have done the GDE tune and speak highly of it, I myself would definitely recommend it having replaced my EGR valve before doing the GDE tune and finding out that Chrysler thinks there are 2 EGR valves when in fact one is an FCV.

Go read the NOOB guide, and do everything it says. Clean your MAF and MAP sensors, change your air filter, get the tune, and start saving for your timing belt if you're near 100k.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Could be several things and what Hexus says is a good start.

Some other comments:
1. the EGR can be removed and cleaned and reinstalled. A bit of a pain but much cheaper than the dealer reaction which is to replace.
2. yes you can run with the MAF unplugged. That will disable the EGR and if your problem goes away that will confirm where the problem is. Running with the MAF unplugged will cause no harm as far as I know but it will result in the CEL being on all the time.
3. the SEGR is an electonic box that when plugged into the system disables the EGR and tricks the system into "thinking" the EGR is working so the CEL does not come on. The SEGR was developed soon after the CRD came out as a "solution" to the EGR problem and works quite well. However, the GDE tune, which was developed more recently, accomplishes the same goal and does other very benefical things that will improve mpg and engine life not to mention increasing engine power over what the F-37 DCJ detuning did.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

GDE tunes reduce but not eliminate EGR.
geordie a GDE tune user ran tests and posted it.

If you want to totally eliminate EGR with any option, a blocking plate made from exhaust gasket material is the ultimate insurance policy.

I am now running ORM soon to upgrade to SEGR.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Yall we re right on about uplugging maf.
Think gonna do full cleanout of intake and egr systems.
Anything that is tricky or that i need to be careful doing?
Whats easiest way to get to egr? Opinions welcome.
Thanks again n look forward to hering back.

Is there any long term danger to running engine with maf unhooked? Someone said turbo could overheat but i dont see how if the euro vm is the same but w/o the egr loop.

It's my understanding that the EGR is disabled completely except under extreme turbo situations where it only opens to relieve pressure.

The EGR is a real pain in the posterior to change, trust me I spent an entire day needlessly doing it in my garage. It's also ~$200 not counting your time. That's IF (big if) it's actually the EGR and not the FCV, which is another $386 and more time.

I believe the Tune is $500 right now, and if you can do without your vehicle for 3-4 days it's the best option, but I think the programmer has been dropped a bunch now so that may be a more viable option. You will also gain about 20% fuel efficiency and you will lose that "shudder" most Jeep Libery CRD drivers get at around 55mph.

These EGR and FCV valves are known to fail, there are people on these very forums who have been through 3-4 EGR valves.

$586 and your time for 2 components that are known to fail or $500 for a tune and not having to worry about them seems like an easy choice to me, but I'll leave you to make your own.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

The shudder is caused by a bad check valve in the front pump caused by a soft seat.

Or a junk OEM converter that trashed its' self out. The Chrysler solution to going with larger dampener springs in the Euro, was what VM recommended to Chrysler from day one before the 2.8L VRT CRD rolled off the line. But in their Bean Counter Engineering, Chrysler came up with a bunch of stupid fixes like detuning the engine and the "Your F-37 ed". The cost savings on the springs by going with the weaker crap, did not even pay for the internet time the dealer had to use to down load the F-37 and upload it into our ECMs and TCM.
I and others have chosen the path to have the full low end torque the 2.8L was designed to deliver.
To do so, I installed the Transgo kit except for the resistor, Suncoast converter, and a Hemi TCM I carefully researched, transplanted and retrained. After that, I sent the F-37 flash to the place we all want the Terrorists to spend eternity.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I dont have the 55 mph shudder

I never did either. I put in the Hemi TCM before I did the Transgo kit/Suncoast including the front pump fix and never had a shudder, even with it locked in 5th at 47MPH at 10 PSI boost. I tried to make it shudder before the Transgo/Suncoast fix and it would not, I fixed it for good anyway so I could go with the Inmotion Stage 2 tune that puts out a Conservative 196-197 HP with the strangling stock muffler. Remove that piece of Bean Counter Engineering crap muffler, open up the 2 1/8" choke point on the rear flange, you have more boost and then put out over 200HP. Simple law of physics that holds true for the stronger tunes.

I tried to get across, shudder is caused by a bad check valve seat in the front pump or bad converter. The F (you) -37 and the drop your engine torque output flash was the Bean Counter Engineer solution for not anodizing the valve seat and bore, and using the light duty springs.

I went with the Hardware solution instead of the Softie Wear solution.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Have one others question related to oil.
I changed the oil with amsoil exrended synth diesel oil. It says can go 15000 miles between oil change i think.
Do i ust change the filter? Could it be bad to run that oil that long?
Anyone know about how much oil drains out when pull filter?
I used 5 40 diesel truck oil.
Gonna put zero forty back in next oil change.