My CRD Saga Continues

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 3:52 pm

Let everyone catch everyone up as to my story. I bought my CRD in April with 74K on the odometer. It is now at 89K. I do not know how the previous owner (PO) took care of her. But, I am finding that out.

I had a previous thread of a failing turbo. It had looked like something went through it. I had broken vanes. I will try and add a link later when I am on the computer. So, I went to idparts and picked up a turbo and a set of glow plugs.

Changing out my glow plugs, I pulled #1 and #2 and they both had a sizable amount of the tip missing. Not good. Things were going smoother until #4. I snapped it with IMHO, was not a lot of torque. So, a call went into my long time friend Henry from Diesel Performance Plus in Westport, MA. I know he has done TB changes. I know this would be the deepest he has gotten into this motor, but I know he is good and has my trust.

Well, he got the head off. He said that #1 and #2 had damage from the glow plug tips. But the damage is okay. I guess the PO was lucky there. But a few people so far think that my turbo damage resulted from the broken glow plugs.

He also told me that #4 was in there due to lack or maintenance and hanging them on a periodic basis. He also said that his engine suffered from lack of maintenance from the PO.

But we are not done. He has to get back and inspect my lifters again, but I have several that need replacing. I guess it will be another trip to Idparts again for me for a set.

Our dilemma now is finding out which head gasket to use. There are 3 different thicknesses. He finally found someone to help. I don't know the exact method, but he has to measure the piston at TDC.

Based on my experiences, take care of your CRD. Do the maintenance on it. Do it right.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:05 pm

ChooChooman74 wrote:

Our dilemma now is finding out which head gasket to use. There are 3 different thicknesses. He finally found someone to help. I don't know the exact method, but he has to measure the piston at TDC.

My experience with several diesel head gasket thickness is this, they usually have a place on the outside edge that is coded with notches, one,two, three, etc., in close proximity to one another. The notches denote various thickness' based on piston protrusion or height a TDC.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:25 pm

There are notches or holes to determine thickness. They are supposed to be visible before removing the head. There are three thicknesses of gasket. The manual recommends using the same thickness gasket as was removed unless a cylinder liner has been replaced. In that case, you have to measure the protrusion of all four pistons and average the number.

I haven't found the location of the notches yet but I have found that zero notches is for a 1.32mm thick gasket, one notch is for a 1.42mm thick gasket, and two notches is for a 1.52mm thick gasket.

If the AVERAGE protrusion of all four pistons is 0.460-0.609mm use the 1.32mm gasket.

If the AVERAGE protrusion of all four pistons is 0.610-0.709mm use the 1.42mm gasket.

If the AVERAGE protrusion of all four pistons is 0.710-0.810mm use the 1.52mm gasket.

The manual also recommends using the liner retaining clamps (VM 1076) before rotating the engine to check each piston protrusion.

In short, finding the notches is the simpler way.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:54 pm

He was able to get the info to properly measure the piston protrusion. I am just waiting for my Jeep.

At least now, he will have more knowledge of the CRD and I still recommend him to work on them.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:06 pm

The protrusion number is the average of the four pistons, not just one. I edited my earlier post with some more info. If he doesn't have at least the PDF of the service manual, he could learn the hard way.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:18 pm

Goglio704 wrote:

The protrusion number is the average of the four pistons, not just one. I edited my earlier post with some more info. If he doesn't have at least the PDF of the service manual, he could learn the hard way.

Thanks for the info. He was doing that this afternoon.

The big thing I was trying to point out is maintenance. Do it! Change your glow plugs. Change your oil. Change your timing belt. It is all part of owning this jeep.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:32 pm

I got lucky I guess. My original plugs came out in one piece at about 105k. I put anti seize on the threads when I installed the 5 volt replacements and torqued them to spec. As far as changing them as a preventative, I don't know. I have never seen a mileage or time schedule suggested for glow plugs. I honestly hate "fast" glow plugs. I would rather wait to start and have longer lived plugs.

MtnClimber · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:33 pm

So what is the maintenance schedule on the Glow Plugs? When should they be changed out?

ChooChooman74 wrote:

Goglio704 wrote:

The protrusion number is the average of the four pistons, not just one. I edited my earlier post with some more info. If he doesn't have at least the PDF of the service manual, he could learn the hard way.

Thanks for the info. He was doing that this afternoon.

The big thing I was trying to point out is maintenance. Do it! Change your glow plugs. Change your oil. Change your timing belt. It is all part of owning this jeep.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:35 pm

I've always replaced them ONLY when they're burned out.

The socialist state of CA wanted them changed out every 2 years on my 524td BMW

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:16 pm

MtnClimber wrote:

So what is the maintenance schedule on the Glow Plugs? When should they be changed out?

ChooChooman74 wrote:

Goglio704 wrote:

The protrusion number is the average of the four pistons, not just one. I edited my earlier post with some more info. If he doesn't have at least the PDF of the service manual, he could learn the hard way.

Thanks for the info. He was doing that this afternoon.

The big thing I was trying to point out is maintenance. Do it! Change your glow plugs. Change your oil. Change your timing belt. It is all part of owning this jeep.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

There is no schedule, but I changed them on my 7.3 either every fall or every other fall. Never had an issue with them seizing in the block.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

ChooChooman74 wrote:

There is no schedule, but I changed them on my 7.3 either every fall or every other fall. Never had an issue with them seizing in the block.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Wow every year for glow plugs... sounds like a wast of coin to me!! I have had my 2000 7.3L for about 4 years and I have yet to think about plug replacement. Do they fail with out indicating the failure?

One of my CRD plugs came out with a buggered up thread and I was thinking about removing them again an putting anti-seize on them since i don't remember if I did when I put the metal plugs in about a year ago.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 2:13 pm

Mine was a 91. Totally different engine

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:48 pm

more bad news. 16 bad lifters. One bad cam... Maybe 2. I early want to know what the PO did for maintenance.... If any!!!!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:17 pm

Stopped by to check on her today. Henry showed me the lifters. There were some OK ones. There were a bunch with bearings gone and the roller had lots of play. There were 2 that the roller was seized. Those ruined the cam.

Head is back on. The tech who installed the head commented on the torquing procedure. He told me all about his new torque wrench with gyros. He also used paint marks to double check the angles.

We are now waiting on a cam and exhaust gasket. But Henry commented once again how there was a lack of oil changes and maintenance by the PO.

One thing he is curious on is the actual spec on the oil. It has been heavily debated here. He seems to not like the 5w40, never mind the 0w40.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:31 pm

ChooChooman74 wrote:

Stopped by to check on her today. Henry showed me the lifters. There were some OK ones. There were a bunch with bearings gone and the roller had lots of play. There were 2 that the roller was seized. Those ruined the cam.

Head is back on. The tech who installed the head commented on the torquing procedure. He told me all about his new torque wrench with gyros. He also used paint marks to double check the angles.

We are now waiting on a cam and exhaust gasket. But Henry commented once again how there was a lack of oil changes and maintenance by the PO.

One thing he is curious on is the actual spec on the oil. It has been heavily debated here. He seems to not like the 5w40, never mind the 0w40.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

There are lots of folks on here who have run M1 0w40 as well as M1 or Rotella 5w40 with no trouble at all. Do you know what the PO used for oil? If a non synthetic was used, or one that is a non 0w40 or 5w40, trouble may be had. The book does call for 12,500 oil changes IIRC, and I would say that is far too long on our engines. There is an actual Chrysler spec, but what it is, I don't know offhand. I don't feel like running out to my Jeep to check, it's raining and I am lazy.

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:38 pm

Not another oil thread!

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:03 pm

racertracer wrote:

Not another oil thread!

I do not want that. But I do want to research it more out of this topic. Bit first, halloween and got to go trick or treating.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:21 pm

There should be no other than 0w-40! I'm sure this will get things started...again

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:31 pm

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:56 pm

MRausch82 wrote:

ChooChooman74 wrote:

Stopped by to check on her today. Henry showed me the lifters. There were some OK ones. There were a bunch with bearings gone and the roller had lots of play. There were 2 that the roller was seized. Those ruined the cam.

Head is back on. The tech who installed the head commented on the torquing procedure. He told me all about his new torque wrench with gyros. He also used paint marks to double check the angles.

We are now waiting on a cam and exhaust gasket. But Henry commented once again how there was a lack of oil changes and maintenance by the PO.

One thing he is curious on is the actual spec on the oil. It has been heavily debated here. He seems to not like the 5w40, never mind the 0w40.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

There are lots of folks on here who have run M1 0w40 as well as M1 or Rotella 5w40 with no trouble at all. Do you know what the PO used for oil? If a non synthetic was used, or one that is a non 0w40 or 5w40, trouble may be had. The book does call for 12,500 oil changes IIRC, and I would say that is far too long on our engines. There is an actual Chrysler spec, but what it is, I don't know offhand. I don't feel like running out to my Jeep to check, it's raining and I am lazy.

From what Henry said, it would be more like "What oil changes"

PO was registered as a concrete company. The stealership said that it was the wife's car. It was very clean car and the body was near perfect.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

My CRD Saga Continues

Who is online