Questions about conduit lifts and Iso lifts.

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

So from what I could find a Clevis/ conduit lift is to level out the front and gain a little more clearance. How much lift do the conduits add? And as far as the rear goes how many iso's should I install?

Ted15 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:00 pm

Roastbeef wrote:

So from what I could find a Clevis/ conduit lift is to level out the front and gain a little more clearance. How much lift do the conduits add? And as far as the rear goes how many iso's should I install?

Here's a link for the clevis lift
viewtopic.php?f=104&t=48731
The conduit rings are about 1/8" thick which should yield about 1/4" of lift. Or close to that anyway. I think the max is 3 or 4 depending who you talk to. (I'd listen to Tommudd)
As far as iso's, they are the stock spring isolators, the rubber pad thing between the spring and the metal where they sit. I'm pretty sure you can only put two together. They're about 1/4" thick.

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

Ted15 wrote:

Roastbeef wrote:

So from what I could find a Clevis/ conduit lift is to level out the front and gain a little more clearance. How much lift do the conduits add? And as far as the rear goes how many iso's should I install?

Here's a link for the clevis lift
viewtopic.php?f=104&t=48731
The conduit rings are about 1/8" thick which should yield about 1/4" of lift. Or close to that anyway. I think the max is 3 or 4 depending who you talk to. (I'd listen to Tommudd)
As far as iso's, they are the stock spring isolators, the rubber pad thing between the spring and the metal where they sit. I'm pretty sure you can only put two together. They're about 1/4" thick.

Thanks for posting that link. That didn't show up when I searched for it. I only found things for the kj's

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

So does anyone think running 4 would be to much?

Ted15 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:00 pm

Roastbeef wrote:

Ted15 wrote:

Roastbeef wrote:

So from what I could find a Clevis/ conduit lift is to level out the front and gain a little more clearance. How much lift do the conduits add? And as far as the rear goes how many iso's should I install?

Here's a link for the clevis lift
viewtopic.php?f=104&t=48731
The conduit rings are about 1/8" thick which should yield about 1/4" of lift. Or close to that anyway. I think the max is 3 or 4 depending who you talk to. (I'd listen to Tommudd)
As far as iso's, they are the stock spring isolators, the rubber pad thing between the spring and the metal where they sit. I'm pretty sure you can only put two together. They're about 1/4" thick.

Thanks for posting that link. That didn't show up when I searched for it. I only found things for the kj's

That part is the same weather KK or KJ. We share the coil over assy.

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

So the front coil over assembly is interchangeable?

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:09 pm

Roastbeef wrote:

So the front coil over assembly is interchangeable?

Yes same springs same everything in the front springs and shocks
OME 927 springs fit both they didn't change that much between a KJ and KK when you park them side by side
3/8 or 3 rings is about it

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:10 pm

Roastbeef wrote:

So does anyone think running 4 would be to much?

Read through the thousands of lift posts

Before I ever lifted mine I got on here and read everything I could find
anymore....... :roll:

At The Helm · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:40 pm

Since you have a daystar lift I"ll assume you still have stock front shocks. If thats the case you'll need to add two nuts before you get any lift. The clevis clamps down against that little ridge.

You don't even need the 2" conduit nuts though, they are more used as a measuring device.

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

Atthehelm wrote:

Since you have a daystar lift I"ll assume you still have stock front shocks. If thats the case you'll need to add two nuts before you get any lift. The clevis clamps down against that little ridge.

You don't even need the 2" conduit nuts though, they are more used as a measuring device.

Could you clarify just a little further.

Ted15 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:49 am

Roastbeef wrote:

Atthehelm wrote:

Since you have a daystar lift I"ll assume you still have stock front shocks. If thats the case you'll need to add two nuts before you get any lift. The clevis clamps down against that little ridge.

You don't even need the 2" conduit nuts though, they are more used as a measuring device.

Could you clarify just a little further.

The conduits basically rest on top of the clevis and provide a type of spacer so when you tighten the bolt that holds the clevis you don't have to compress the spring with a prybar which is very hard to do. If you have access to a lathe, you could make spacers that look much better. Make the inside diameter about .010 larger than the shock and the outside diameter .250-.375 larger than that which will give you a wall thickness of .125-.188. The length should be the amount you're trying to raise the coilover. This way you might get away with 1/2". Weather you make spacers or use conduit nuts, to assemble you'll drop the clevis off the shock and slide the spacer of choice onto the shock followed by the clevis. The clevis is strong enough to hold without spacers if tightened properly. In a pinch, you could do it after assembly but it's not easy, that's where I am now. My clevis is dropped about 1/4" without a spacer and that's about all we could get out of it. Those OME springs are hard to move with a prybar. :rockon:

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

Ic ic,

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 3:03 pm

If you want to use conduit nuts here is a little trick
Since we use them mainly just for measurement purposes, here's a little trick. If they slide up over that little shoulder on the bottom of the shock put them in a vise and squeeze them just a little bit so they just go up over the shock. Position them so the narrow part goes where the shoulder is, this way they won't slide up over. Also when using 3 tape them together so they're not falling all over the place, makes it much easier.
Don't share any of the above, we'll keep it to ourselves :ROTFL:

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

Ted15 wrote:

Roastbeef wrote:

Atthehelm wrote:

Since you have a daystar lift I"ll assume you still have stock front shocks. If thats the case you'll need to add two nuts before you get any lift. The clevis clamps down against that little ridge.

You don't even need the 2" conduit nuts though, they are more used as a measuring device.

Could you clarify just a little further.

The conduits basically rest on top of the clevis and provide a type of spacer so when you tighten the bolt that holds the clevis you don't have to compress the spring with a prybar which is very hard to do. If you have access to a lathe, you could make spacers that look much better. Make the inside diameter about .010 larger than the shock and the outside diameter .250-.375 larger than that which will give you a wall thickness of .125-.188. The length should be the amount you're trying to raise the coilover. This way you might get away with 1/2". Weather you make spacers or use conduit nuts, to assemble you'll drop the clevis off the shock and slide the spacer of choice onto the shock followed by the clevis. The clevis is strong enough to hold without spacers if tightened properly. In a pinch, you could do it after assembly but it's not easy, that's where I am now. My clevis is dropped about 1/4" without a spacer and that's about all we could get out of it. Those OME springs are hard to move with a prybar. :rockon:

So from where that lip is on the strut mount is where the Clevis lift should start?

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 3:25 pm

That lip is where the shock would normally slide down into the clevis, so yes from it you would want to use two or three conduit nuts to give you the lift you want.
They have allowed the conduit nuts to slide up over in the one pictured which would throw off your numbers somewhat

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

tommudd wrote:

That lip is where the shock would normally slide down into the clevis, so yes from it you would want to use two or three conduit nuts to give you the lift you want.
They have allowed the conduit nuts to slide up over in the one pictured which would throw off your numbers somewhat

Would it be easier to just make some markings instead of using the conduit, like just make a half inch mark from where that grove sticks out and attach the Clevis at that point on the strut mount.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:27 pm

half inch???
3/8 of an inch yes, half no

Roastbeef · **Joined:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:31 pm **Posts:** 199

tommudd wrote:

half inch???
3/8 of an inch yes, half no

I just assumed 1/2" would be ok. You said 3 or 4 conduit spacers. 4= 1/2"

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:11 pm

Roastbeef wrote:

tommudd wrote:

half inch???
3/8 of an inch yes, half no

I just assumed 1/2" would be ok. You said 3 or 4 conduit spacers. 4= 1/2"

never said 4 , I said two or three
never anywhere have I said 4 unless it was joking :roll:

Ok just relooked never did I say 4 ,
I mention 2 or 3 in at least 3 places
Ted mentions 4 but.....

Ok I give up , moving on :-)r

At The Helm · **Posted:** Sat Oct 27, 2012 12:45 am

You're gonna be limited with the stock a arms on how high you can go before they start hitting the spring. You also don't need the conduit nuts. Just separate uca ball joint, loosen upper clevis bolt, push the lca down until you have 1/4"-3-8" gap between that that ridge, and call it good. If your springs hit, then you have gone too high and start over with less gap. Good luck

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