What have you done to your KK lately

KK4x4 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:17 pm

tommudd wrote:

That exact piece (RRO OTT spacer) is what blew out 3 front shocks and destroyed two right side UCAs on the guy I got my ARB from. Still have them laying around after he gave them to me. They haven't changed anything except their marketing. You do have to laugh when you read their writeups, get a huge kick out of them.

What about some of their other products like the safari and adventure racks and their steel side roof rails? I was planning on getting them but now I'm on the fence about it.

At The Helm · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:33 pm

jlalbert85 wrote:

Ted15 wrote:

When the time comes for the lift, be sure to look very closley and choose wisely. I made the mistake of going with the over the top spacer lift from RRO and saw first hand why it's not a good choice. My front shocks would bottom out on bumps frequently even with extended bump stops and the back rode like an old wagon.

Newbie question here. I have the rock father deluxe on the way and I plan on wheeling. I already went to my local offload park with funny looks from the lifted jeep guys. I had a blast.

Anyway what is the difference between going full ome with spacers and the rock father deluxe. I upgraded to the ome stuff so I don't see a huge difference between using spacers or the strut cap piece from rro?

Thoughts?

That strut cap piece is there to essentially extend the strut. Tried that using the daystar top plate. Using the oem top plate is better. The spring won't be preloaded enough and it actually decreases the amount of lift you get, it will ride better with the oem top plates too. If I remember correctly they just give you spacers for the rear and cheapo rear shocks or the option to ugrade to n132s, which are the wrong shocks, you need n132Ls. If I were youI would call RRO and ask if you can return the kit, you should be able to refuse from ups so you don't have to pay return shipping.
Then go to JBA and buy the ome kit and use it the way ARB designed it to be used, of course using bumpstops too.
Like Tommud said there have been issues with rro's arms for the KJ, like not fitting or poor quality or just plain never receiving them.

Ted15 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:34 pm

KK4x4 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

That exact piece (RRO OTT spacer) is what blew out 3 front shocks and destroyed two right side UCAs on the guy I got my ARB from. Still have them laying around after he gave them to me. They haven't changed anything except their marketing. You do have to laugh when you read their writeups, get a huge kick out of them.

What about some of their other products like the safari and adventure racks and their steel side roof rails? I was planning on getting them but now I'm on the fence about it.

Try these guys after they reopen
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/Page%201.htm

jjohnson1892 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:37 pm

KK4x4 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

That exact piece (RRO OTT spacer) is what blew out 3 front shocks and destroyed two right side UCAs on the guy I got my ARB from. Still have them laying around after he gave them to me. They haven't changed anything except their marketing. You do have to laugh when you read their writeups, get a huge kick out of them.

What about some of their other products like the safari and adventure racks and their steel side roof rails? I was planning on getting them but now I'm on the fence about it.

I can't comment on lift parts or any of that, but I've had the RRO Adventure rack since August. Light bar was poorly designed (sat very high and too tight for my preference) but the overall rack is holding up. I'm pretty happy with it and the ability for attachments for a tire mount, jack mount, etc. It's a solid rack and I'm pleased overall.

Ted15 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:41 pm

Seriously, check out the search thread I posted for you above. These are issues that go back a very long time. Also check out mtnluver's RRO rock rails. They were destroyed taking out his rocker panel and rendering the door useless until it was removed. No refund was authorized as far as I've heard. I was just going to post links but there are way too many posts of dissatisfied customers without resolution.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:58 pm

Ted15 wrote:

Seriously, check out the search thread I posted for you above. These are issues that go back a very long time. Also check out mtnluver's RRO rock rails. They were destroyed taking out his rocker panel and rendering the door useless until it was removed. No refund was authorized as far as I've heard. I was just going to post links but there are way too many posts of dissatisfied customers without resolution.

^^^ I read a lot of that thread you posted and it seems like 80 percent of people have results saying it's not a good product. I'd hop on the band wagon on this one and listen to these results and steer clear of their products, unless you want to to add to the horrible results already listed by many.

Cherrie 274 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:04 pm

I would say buyer beware. Some have been happy with RRO and with RLF and some not. Some have had terrible customer service from both too. Some have paid for product from RLF and either not received it or had long waits. Don't know if RRO has done this also.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:45 am

Took my friend for a test drive today since I've done some mods since the last time he was in it. Times like this I realize more and more how good mine sounds.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Fri Nov 23, 2012 8:39 pm

A little TLC for the KK today: oil and filter change, as well as 6 new spark plugs, properly gapped. It purrs (well as much as the 3.7 can purr). Tomorrow: tire rotation and heated seat kit install! :BANANA:

Note for Gageraid and tjkj2002: The throttle body was pretty clean so I just left it alone.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:05 am

lfhoward wrote:

A little TLC for the KK today: oil and filter change, as well as 6 new spark plugs, properly gapped. It purrs (well as much as the 3.7 can purr). Tomorrow: tire rotation and heated seat kit install! :BANANA:

Note for Gageraid and tjkj2002: The throttle body was pretty clean so I just left it alone.

What plugs did you use? Have you ever rotated the tires before? I'm not sure I agree with the rotation pattern they suggest in the manual, but if it's right, that's how I'll do it next time I get a jack under her.

JeepNCrowd · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:50 am

Cherrie 274 wrote:

I would say buyer beware. Some have been happy with RRO and with RLF and some not. Some have had terrible customer service from both too. Some have paid for product from RLF and either not received it or had long waits. Don't know if RRO has done this also.

I like my JCR Sliders ( they were alittle off, but nothing major) and they seem to have held up so far. They had relatively quick ship time (3-4 weeks), So I think their a good company. Too bad they only sell sliders for us and nothing else.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:45 am

Gageraid wrote:

lfhoward wrote:

A little TLC for the KK today: oil and filter change, as well as 6 new spark plugs, properly gapped. It purrs (well as much as the 3.7 can purr). Tomorrow: tire rotation and heated seat kit install! :BANANA:

Note for Gageraid and tjkj2002: The throttle body was pretty clean so I just left it alone.

What plugs did you use? Have you ever rotated the tires before? I'm not sure I agree with the rotation pattern they suggest in the manual, but if it's right, that's how I'll do it next time I get a jack under her.

I used plain old copper core plugs ($2 each at Advance Auto Parts) because Jeep engines just seem to do better with these than they do with fancy platinums or E3's. I have been following the tire rotation pattern in the owners manual (rear straight to front, front crossed to rear) but I know it's different than the Haynes manual's recommendation for the XJ (front to back, same side never crossing). I'm not sure what the pros and cons of the different patterns are, so I stuck with the recommended rotation from the owners manual. I'm open to suggestions, though, if there are good reasons behind them! Eventually I'd like to get a matching rim and tire for the spare and do a 5 tire rotation, so the tires will last 20% longer. If anyone wants to unload a 2008 rim, let me know!

lfhoward · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:18 pm

Ok, the heated seat mod is officially not fun. I got the heating elements installed in the passengers seat today, but that's it. And I hurt all over. Bending at weird angles and pulling on stuck fasteners without breaking anything makes for a challenging project, and Mopar's instruction manual doesn't show all of the fasteners that need to be released. It just shows "pop off this panel with a trim tool" without noting that there are four screws to remove, two steel fasteners that need to be released from the inside, various plastic clips, and, oh yes, you need to unscrew the seat belt anchor with a T50 torx socket to access one of the screws. :furious:

Here's what's left to do: Install both heating elements in the drivers seat, plus install the switches and main wiring. I was planning to rotate the tires today, but there was no time for that. :banghead:

TurboGoKart · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:05 pm

I put an aftermarket heated seat in an 06 Trailblazer a few months ago. It had cloth seats which I'm pretty sure made it easier to do than the leather seats. Did you take the seat out? The one I did was nuts...all sorts of solenoids everywhere in that thing lol. It's a lot easier to take the whole seat out (4 bolts), then you have complete access to it all over. Kinda like taking the clothes off a woman rather than sliding a hand down her pants.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:17 pm

lfhoward wrote:

Note for Gageraid and tjkj2002: The throttle body was pretty clean so I just left it alone.

I have been following the tire rotation pattern in the owners manual (rear straight to front, front crossed to rear) but I know it's different than the Haynes manual's recommendation for the XJ (front to back, same side never crossing). I'm not sure what the pros and cons of the different patterns are, so I stuck with the recommended rotation from the owners manual. I'm open to suggestions, though, if there are good reasons behind them! Eventually I'd like to get a matching rim and tire for the spare and do a 5 tire rotation, so the tires will last 20% longer. If anyone wants to unload a 2008 rim, let me know!

[/quote]

rears straight up , fronts crossed works great
quite a few years in the tire business and the way we always recommended it
Just did the the 45th rotation on mine ( every 3500-4000 miles ) and have done it that way everytime

lfhoward · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:28 pm

TurboGoKart wrote:

Did you take the seat out? The one I did was nuts...all sorts of solenoids everywhere in that thing lol. It's a lot easier to take the whole seat out (4 bolts), then you have complete access to it all over.

Yeah, I unscrewed the seat from the vehicle floor, but there are a lot of wiring harnesses under there connecting the air bag sensors, which I didn't mess with. So I kept the seat in the Jeep, but was able to rock the seat forward or back to access the underside.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:31 pm

tommudd wrote:

rears straight up , fronts crossed works great
quite a few years in the tire business and the way we always recommended it
Just did the the 45th rotation on mine ( every 3500-4000 miles ) and have done it that way everytime

Thanks Tom! :JEEPIN:

When I get that new rim, how would you recommend adding a spare wheel to the rotation pattern?

Ted15 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2012 12:35 pm

Sometimes, when one tries stuff, it works out well and sometimes, well, it doesn't. I think I may've pushed my little axels a little too far. What I once thought was tire noise I now think is CV joint noise. At speeds above 45ish I get a noise and vibration that seems like a low or flat tire. It got worse when I raised the front a little more to level it. The noise/vibration seems to go away if I drive in 4wd and returns after a short time in 2wd. I haven't torn a cv boot yet but if I'm correct it probably won't be long.
Here's what's under there now.
OME suspension
Front
Two 1/4" top plate spacers
3/8" clevis drop
Rear
1 extra spring isolator
2" poly spacer from old lift

I can't remember what the measurements are but I think I'm only at or around 3 1/2"

TurboGoKart · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2012 2:40 pm

Ted15 wrote:

Sometimes, when one tries stuff, it works out well and sometimes, well, it doesn't. I think I may've pushed my little axels a little too far. What I once thought was tire noise I now think is CV joint noise. At speeds above 45ish I get a noise and vibration that seems like a low or flat tire. It got worse when I raised the front a little more to level it. The noise/vibration seems to go away if I drive in 4wd and returns after a short time in 2wd. I haven't torn a cv boot yet but if I'm correct it probably won't be long.

Is it only when you're going straight? Does the noise increase when turning to the right or left? Is it more of a vibration/methodical thumping noise or more of a clicking noise? My front right wheel bearing is on its way out right now. Sounds ok when I drive straight at speeds, but the faint "thumpthumpthumpthump" increases when I turn to the right.

Ted15 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2012 2:59 pm

TurboGoKart wrote:

Ted15 wrote:

Sometimes, when one tries stuff, it works out well and sometimes, well, it doesn't. I think I may've pushed my little axels a little too far. What I once thought was tire noise I now think is CV joint noise. At speeds above 45ish I get a noise and vibration that seems like a low or flat tire. It got worse when I raised the front a little more to level it. The noise/vibration seems to go away if I drive in 4wd and returns after a short time in 2wd. I haven't torn a cv boot yet but if I'm correct it probably won't be long.

Is it only when you're going straight? Does the noise increase when turning to the right or left? Is it more of a vibration/methodical thumping noise or more of a clicking noise? My front right wheel bearing is on its way out right now. Sounds ok when I drive straight at speeds, but the faint "thumpthumpthumpthump" increases when I turn to the right.

I totally forgot I had a wheel bearing screaching awhile back. When I took it in to have the wheel bearing checked, the mechanic said the noise was my tires, the dumb stupid. I just figured I'd let it fail and make them either repair the damage or replace the jeep. I'm still not sure that's what it is though. Sometimes, after it warmed up the noise stops. Yea it's a thumpitythump, just like a low tire.

What have you done to your KK lately

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