Don't use the bleeder screw. They are horrible on every vehicle I've touched, and ironically they're almost never the highest point in the coolant system. Normally, the easiest way to actually burp the coolant is to remove the radiator cap, start the car, and let it idle until it comes up to operating temperature (aka, the fan will kick on, signifying that the thermostat has opened up).
You HAVE to leave the cap off until the thermostat opens. Why? Because of the pockets of air that get trapped in the hoses before the coolant has a chance to completely cycle through when the t-stat opens. On the KK, you can do the method I just described. I'm not sure where the cap is on the KJ radiator, or if there's a remote filler neck for those. Wherever you fill it, this is the process to use to completely rid the system of air.
You can help the process along by 'massaging' the two main coolant lines in/out of the radiator to help squeeze the air out. Make sure to keep the radiator full during this process to avoid air being sucked back in to the system.
_________________ -OME HD/MD, Clevis (3x), 1/4" spacer, 2 extra rear iso's, JBA 5.5 A-arms -90 Nissan 240 w/LS1 swap USAF SFS CATM Instructor
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