Cut open a motor mount today

#2DSL · **Joined:** Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:20 am **Posts:** 7

[url=http://imagesha[url=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/dsc00112hq.jpg/][img=http://imageshack.us/a/img9/2294/dsc00112hq.th.jpg][/url]
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img259/5967/dsc00111cv.th.jpg] Had rattling noise at idle
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img835/2408/dsc00110hf.th.jpg] The round disk is bolted
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img528/3749/dsc00109ub.th.jpg] to top of motor mount
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8130/dsc00108l.th.jpg] Bolt was loose and disk
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img209/52/dsc00107vt.th.jpg]was rattling around bolt.
[img=http://imageshack.us/a/img24/9062/dsc00106sx.th.jpg] Bottom half was filled with
ck.us/photo/my-images/24/dsc00106sx.jpg/]

[/URL]black fluid in blatter.

#2DSL · **Joined:** Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:20 am **Posts:** 7

When i put new motor mounts in noise was gone just sooo quiet like new jeep can here diesel clatter better the sound of economy.

Had noise since i got it in october. Guess i have to buy spares lasted 6 years. In 6 years may not be avalable? It sure looks like a lame design. Bolt came loose disk was rattling around bolt. Not sure what disk dose in there.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:39 pm

I replaced mine not too long ago, and meant to cut mine open. I just chucked them last week since I kept tripping over them. Indeed it seems like a poor design. My Jeep, too, is much quieter, does not rattle upon hitting bumps, and idles smooth and quietly. Well worth the effort/money. I had the dealer do mine with mounts that I supplied. It was in anyhow to get a new fuel tank under warranty, so I had them do that and some other stuff...

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 8:48 pm

I've come to notice my CRD has an ever so slight vibration at idle while parked, a touch of throttle to bring it up to 850 or more rpms and it runs smooth as glass. Could this be motor mount related?

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:04 pm

Tiarnon wrote:

I've come to notice my CRD has an ever so slight vibration at idle while parked, a touch of throttle to bring it up to 850 or more rpms and it runs smooth as glass. Could this be motor mount related?

Sounds like it to me. Mine started that way.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:31 pm

the real key on a motor mount is that at a stop at idle - the sound will change in drive/reverse/neutral.

(I keep the old one as a rattle - just to show folks)

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:35 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

the real key on a motor mount is that at a stop at idle - the sound will change in drive/reverse/neutral.

(I keep the old one as a rattle - just to show folks)

Mine did not really make a difference in reverse or drive, even park or neutral it rattled like hell.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:43 pm

Were both sides rattling?

the torque loading is different in drive/reverse/neutral
although it affects which side rattles - rattle in drive - means the passengers side is broken,
rattle in reverse - means the drivers side is gone.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:45 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

Were both sides rattling?

the torque loading is different in drive/reverse/neutral
although it affects which side rattles - rattle in drive - means the passengers side is broken,
rattle in reverse - means the drivers side is gone.

I don't recall, but I am thinking yes. I figured I'd replace em both because if one were bad the other side would soon follow.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:47 pm

Yeah - I replaced both - passengers side was worse - but I figured the drivers side wasn't far behind.
but mine did sound different drive/reverse.

jschmidty1 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:05 am **Posts:** 6

MRausch82 wrote:

I replaced mine not too long ago, and meant to cut mine open. I just chucked them last week since I kept tripping over them. Indeed it seems like a poor design. My Jeep, too, is much quieter, does not rattle upon hitting bumps, and idles smooth and quietly. Well worth the effort/money. I had the dealer do mine with mounts that I supplied. It was in anyhow to get a new fuel tank under warranty, so I had them do that and some other stuff...

Can anyone share part numbers? The diagrams online do not look like the ones shown in pictures earlier in the thread.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Feb 24, 2013 5:48 pm

Get 2 of the driver side mounts 52129011AD. The passenger side is identical you just have to move the heat shield which saves like $10-15

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:12 am

papaindigo wrote:

Get 2 of the driver side mounts 52129011AD. The passenger side is identical you just have to move the heat shield which saves like $10-15

Is the right side 52129374AC? MPA has 52129011AD for $36.42 and 52129374AC for $37.38 so if that's the right part it doesn't seem worth moving the shield for less than $1.

Also, any reason to do the rear(s) too? Dealer has the head off (screwed up the first one so it warped again) so wonder if it's worth them doing the mounts while it's torn down.

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:32 am

grywlfbg wrote:

Dealer has the head off (screwed up the first one so it warped again)

Sorry to take this thread off track but....Did the dealer use a brand new head when they replaced it the first time?

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:10 pm

racertracer wrote:

grywlfbg wrote:

Dealer has the head off (screwed up the first one so it warped again)

Sorry to take this thread off track but....Did the dealer use a brand new head when they replaced it the first time?

There were none available. Mopar reman unit used. Came w/ a 3-year warranty so they're doing everything for free. They'd never worked on a CRD before so I assume they screwed up torquing the head down. It ran perfectly for 9 months and then started losing coolant again - same symptom as the first time being blown out the overflow.

Hopefully since this will be their second one they'll have better luck w/ it :roll:

They aren't interested in installing ARP studs instead of the TTY bolts. Haven't decided if I want to try and tackle that by myself later. The $64,000 question is I'd need to switch to studs while it's still running fine but then I don't know if it's necessary. As I mentioned in another thread, our family is growing so I'm looking at a GC CRD in a year or 2 so may just hope it lasts that long.

Cut open a motor mount today

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