Finished head gasket / valve-train.... now drive-train?

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

For those who don't remember:
06' crd
had a blown head gasket
While tearing down, discovered a valve-train in need of replacement

Got all that done, motor back together.

I had keith at GDE make me a custom tune: basically the eco-tune, but with the "hot" fuel maps and still the reduced torque on TC lockup.

Jeeps runs fantastic.... gobs of torque and power, smooth startup (I also put in new 7v metal glow plugs), etc

Today I took it for a good drive on the highway.

steep incline: ~1800 RPMS... ~ 60 MPH....... 1/4 throttle, everything great..... 1/2-3/4 throttle the jeep starts to shudder....

feels like the TC lockup is slipping.... if I turn off OD, and let the revs up, it's great, or if I simply floor it and let it downshift, it's fine....

I'm going to ask keith to confirm it's actually reduced torque in lockup mode..... if it is, I guess it's time to do the TC next....

So my question is, how hard of a job is the TC? I'm pretty confident skill wise (hey I just did a head gasket and valve train replacement, and that seems to have gone well....)

I remember reading that there's a pump I should swap out as well......

My oil pan's drain threads are toast, so I can take care of that while I'm in there, and I broke one of the bolts off for the rock guard plate under the motor, so I can take care of that too...

I have a #5000 travel trailer and a #5000 boat that I drag around too, so I should be doing the TC anyway....... then I can get keith @ GDE to re-flash to the full on "hot" tune (if that isn't what I've already got, again, I have to talk to him)

my TC wasn't acting like this before, but my intake runners were so choked off, and I had so much black smoke coming out of my tail pipe that there's no doubt I was bellow stock TQ numbers....

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:30 pm

Hard part's getting to it.

it's a 4WD with a transfer case - so pulling the tranny means pulling the transfer case and cross members first - not bad if you have a lift

a pain without it.

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

no hoist....

jack stands and ramps......

the head gasket / valve train / intake manifold cleanup / new glow plugs was worth somewhere between 50 and 75 F-bombs........

how many F-bombs to remove and re install the T-case, trans, cross members, etc ?

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:48 pm

You and I are in the same boat. Now my engine has more power after fixing the valvetrain, I get shudder.

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amslube · **Posted:** Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:08 am

I replaced my TC and front pump about 1-1/2 years ago and remember it well. I had the drain back issue which wasn't fixed with several spin-on filter changes and also, once in a great while, the TC lockup when cold which stalled the engine at a stop. I was fortunate a found a brand new, new style front pump on Ebay for less than half of what the dealer wanted. Also Euro TC's were readilly available then from any MoPar parts place, I understand that is not the case anymore.

I believe there is a step-by-step procedure on the GDE website which I followed and was extremely helpful. I didn't have a lift or trans jack, I jacked up the Liberty and put 6X6 blocks under the tires to get enough room to work under the vehicle. My improvised trans jack was my floor jack with a piece of 3/4" plywood bolted to the lift part and some straps to wrap around the trans and jack when removing and inatalling the transmission...actually worked quite well. Also, I left the transfer case bolted to the trans and removed both as a unit.

Get some long extensions, I mean long extensions for your ratchet set and you may need a universal as well. A couple of the bell housing bolts are a bear to get at but take your time, and you will be fine. Time wise I alloted myself 2 days for the job. The trans was out on the garage floor the first day, if I remember correctly took about 4 hours or so. The following morning the front pump and TC were replaced, and reinstalled the trans. The second day was about a 7-8 hour day. The only problem I had was after taking it for a test drive, it would not shift beyond 3rd gear, panic time! Finally it threw a code for a trans speed sensor. I remember bumping one with my ratchet handle when installing the bolts for the shift cable bracket, checked it with my meter and it was open. Fortunately my local NAPA had one in stock, installed it, and all was well.

F-bombs...mostly when I took it for the initial test drive and it didn't shift beyond 3rd but other than that, take your time and it will be OK.

NotPicky · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:59 am

With help, bout a 6 hour jobber. You can leave the transfer case attached. Just remember to remove the shifter cable cause if you break it, like I did, replacement of the cable a couple days after installing the tranny makes for more F-bombs. Diddo to the very long extensions

Glend · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:15 am

I replaced my Torque Converter using the GDE procedure and yes you can leave the transfer case and cross support in place. The combined weight of that assembly is heavy and yes a transmission jack is required (in my opinion). Allow a couple of days for the job as there are bits to come off and put on as you go. Don't forget to put Locktite on the torque converter to flywheel bolts.

Importantly, if your doing it then change the rear main seal at the same time as it's a great opportunity.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Its not a difficult job if you have the following:
a. A strong back
b. Tools (basic tools plus a lot of extensions, impact wrench or air ratchet is nice to have too)

I used my old harbor freight cheap tranny jack and it worked perfectly supporting the weight of the tranny and transfer jack together. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-cap ... 39178.html

I did the removal of the tranny but due to my bad back, had Sir Sam install it.

Install was just as easy as removal except tranny dipstick line routing was a bit of a pain. My biggest problem during removal was the 3rd starter bolt which was stubborn and needed penetrating oil and heat via a handheld butane torch to loosen it.

I'm a proponent of upgrading the front pump. Its supposed to pump more and have less drain back issues than previous one.

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:35 pm

crd260......Glad you got it all back together and running good.

Nice Job!

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

kjjet wrote:

crd260......Glad you got it all back together and running good.

Nice Job!

one of the more difficult vehicles I've wrenched on....

there was some serious :furious:

on things like the bolts to hold the EGR clip to the back of the head, and the plenum adapter onto the manifold.... stuff like that...

The whole fan clutch fan shroud thing isn't much fun either, come to think of it.....

now I've got to swap out my Torque converter and install a bypass filter (thinking bottom side, but waiting for feedback)

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:44 am

crd260 wrote:

kjjet wrote:

crd260......Glad you got it all back together and running good.

Nice Job!

one of the more difficult vehicles I've wrenched on....

there was some serious :furious:

on things like the bolts to hold the EGR clip to the back of the head, and the plenum adapter onto the manifold.... stuff like that...

The whole fan clutch fan shroud thing isn't much fun either, come to think of it.....

now I've got to swap out my Torque converter and install a bypass filter (thinking bottom side, but waiting for feedback)

O...there are alot worse out there. But the fan and shroud thing is trying for sure the first time! I now know how to do it in 1/4 of the time. As far as the EGR. Mine was lost and had to block things off

Good luck to you!

Finished head gasket / valve-train.... now drive-train?

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