Is there a procedure to fix this?? No weird noises when test started. Nor when hand cranking. Prior posts on this questionhttp://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=73824 and viewtopic.php?f=36&t=72904&p=773473#p773473

So I put a new timing belt on this weekend! After test starting the motor, I think my exhaust cam is now 1/2 a tooth off. I reinserted the pins last night and can not get the exhaust Pin is go in smoothly with intake, flywheel and fuel pump lined up. Though, the exhaust is very close to being in time, as I can feel the hole with a small screw driver. Can/do I use a small steel rod to hold exhaust with locking tool if I can not get the exhaust Pin in smoothly??

Prior to test starting after hand cranking multiple times (and OEM replacement of the idlers and tensioner plus water pump all purchased from ID parts) everything was lined up perfect.


Did I not get adequate tension on the tensioner prior to torquing?? Was there was enough slack for the belt to get half a tooth off? Or is something else possibly going on? Just want to be more certain.
Current picture Tensioner picture Tensioner spring close up Look the spring is no longer in the slot. Why?: Sprockets currently!


Sprockets with old belt

New Belt with Graphics and my timing marks. Did use pin and generic holding tool plus a fabricated sprocket buster when removing and torquing Cam Sprockets.

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2006 CRD, 2nd Owner, GDE ECO, 5V steel fast-glow plugs, updated fuel-head

Bio-Diesel when/where I can. In Houston available at http://www.houstonbiodiesel.com/ and it conforms to ASTM. They also have home brew classes!!

60 % Suburbs N. of Houston, TX - Conroe / The Woodlands Area 40 % Colorado and the West

EASY FIX.

1. Verify crank timing mark is at 90 degrees (3:00)
2. Install the flywheel pin.
3. Install the intake cam pin.
4. Using a cam holding tool loosen the intake cam slightly.
5. With a wrench or socket move the exhaust cam untill the exhaust pin can be inserted.
6. Using a cam holding tool loosen the exhaust cam slightly.
7. Check the pump timing and set if needed.
8. Set the tension.
9. With the cam holding tool tighten both cam bolts to spec.
10. Recheck tension.
11. Pull all three pins.
12. Turn the engine over by hand a few times and recheck the tension. Tighten if needed.

Thats it.

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

As far as running is concerned, the timing of the fuel pump doesn't matter. However, it being in time accounts for about 2% of the power. Posts from GDE and MrMopar64 explain this. The injection pump timing isn't critical, but it's preferable.

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I never heard that. I adjusted my reply to to add pump timing. I would not want to tell someone to do somthing wrong. Thanks

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

It was part of a debate from probably two years ago on this forum. People like to argue with engineers who actually know about these things...particularly the two already mentioned.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

That is very handy! I did mine a different way but should work!

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05 CRD Sport Dark Kahki

RRO: Adventure Rack/Rails ** MOPAR: Skids/Renny Flares & 255/75r17 (32.1) BFG M/T on JK wheels ** ARB: Bumper/IPF lights/790/948/shocks ** GDE: TCM/Hot Tune ** ROCKLIZARD: Super Sliders/Komodo Bumper

My Build Thread
US Army Infantry

I would only do this process if your timing is slightly off like 06PeakBagger is checking.
Not to be confused with a complete t-belt change.

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

I would only do this process if your timing is slightly off like 06PeakBagger is checking.
Not to be confused with a complete t-belt change.[/quote]

Correct, thanks for clarifying that! When I did mine the cam slightly rotated so my pins would not twist in or out simultaneously so I wanted to reset the gear to cam position.

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05 CRD Sport Dark Kahki

RRO: Adventure Rack/Rails ** MOPAR: Skids/Renny Flares & 255/75r17 (32.1) BFG M/T on JK wheels ** ARB: Bumper/IPF lights/790/948/shocks ** GDE: TCM/Hot Tune ** ROCKLIZARD: Super Sliders/Komodo Bumper

My Build Thread
US Army Infantry