Loss of power...I need some help...

Dcordin44 · **Joined:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 2:34 am **Posts:** 3

So i just bought my CRD last August and haven't had any problems until now. All of a sudden it looses power as soon as it reaches 50 mph and upshifts and the rpms drop from 2100ish to 1600ish. The power disappears and I can put my foot to the floor and nothing really happens but black smoke out of the tail pipe. The motor will down shift eventually if I keep it floored but it can take 5-10 seconds to happen. The rpms move up slowly with the speed until I get the rpms up about 2000 then I have power. When/if it downshifts there's plenty of power but it seems like whenever it upshifts and the rpms drop I don't have any power. My CEL come on a while back with MAF so i cleaned it and it went away. But now its always on and says MAF, and Low Turbo boost. I checked the CAC hoses and they were covered in oil when i checked them but no signs of cracks or splits. They were starting to swell at the ends though,I cleaned them and I'm gonna get Samcos. I replaced the fuel filter and it didn't help any either. I also pulled the MAP sensor out and it was terrible. I cleaned it and it didn't seem to help either. In fact after I cleaned it and went for a drive the jeep went into limp mode after running good for bout 10 minutes. After I cleaned the MAP sensor I did the ORM to the MAF. But now I'm out of ideas and was hoping to get some advice from other CRD owners. Any help is appreciated!!!!

Thanks, Derek

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:29 am

Welcome to lost and sorry to hear about the problems you're having.

Here are my thoughts:

1. Turbo may need a good cleaning. Run the jeep on the open highway, allow the hot turbo to burn off the crud around the vanes. Put the pedal to the metal when the engine has reached full operating temps.

2. You have a lot of oil built up that is still flowing in the intake from the previous owner not operating the vehicle without the MAF sensor unplugged. Evident in the amount of oil still in your CAC hoses and on your MAP sensor. It may be a while till all that oil is burned off...... just keep driving it with the MAF sensor unplugged.

3. Air in fuel.
You may have replaced the fuel filter, but do you have the old fuel head?

The old fuel head develops air leaks around the right side electrical connector. Check connector for a burned spot, you may need a new head. The old fuel head has also been known to cause fires that occur at that spot.

The old fuel filter gasket was never removed and it is stuck in place causing an air leak. Remove the fuel filter to check for the old rubber gasket possibly fused to the underside of threaded stud, preventing the new filter from seating properly and causing air leaks.

Start there and let's see what happens... report back and list any codes.

Dcordin44 · **Joined:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 2:34 am **Posts:** 3

Ok, I've tried putting the pedal to the metal but now it just puts the motor into limp mode. I cleaned the MAP a couple days a go and drove it for about 30 minutes total since then and it was already collecting more sludge. I just cleaned it and took it for another drive, bout 5 minutes, and then checked it and there was a little bit of build up. I did check the fuel head and made sure the old gasket was off before I put the new filter on. I also didn't see anything wrong with the connector on the fuel head. I haven't checked the codes lately but last time I did, they were P0299 "Low Turbo Boost" and P0101 "MAF" anymore suggestions???

Thanks, Derek

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I'm betting its AFC valve and/or EGR valve related.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:26 pm

WELCOME Dcordin44...

The fact that you are blowing black smoke is not good. Is it throwing any codes after clearing?
Any mods? 2nd generation fuel head? GDE tune? Miles?

1. I would remove the intake hose to the turbo and check it for cracks. They are known to break at the turbo connection.
2. Check the turbo shaft for looseness. Should be no movement side to side.
3. Remove the Intake hose on the drivers side and check the butter fly valve for looseness.

If all of this checks good? Try removing the MAF sensor plug. This will stop the EGR but will give you a Check engine light. Try driving with it disconnected. If it runs good, you have a EGR problem. If still no good. Remove the intake elbo and check it for blockage from the EGR and CCV oil. Bad combo.

Good luck!

Dcordin44 · **Joined:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 2:34 am **Posts:** 3

I checked the hoses for cracks, I just took off the hose from the turbo to the intercooler tonite and it looks like its seeping a tiny bit of oil around the end of the turbo and intercooler. I'm ordering new hoses. I pulled the MAF sensor a couple days ago and didn't notice a difference. I also checked the turbine for a second time tonite and there wasn't and movement and it spins freely and smoothly. Is the butterfly valve for the EGR? or something else? My CRD has 96k at the moment. No mods whats so ever, besides tires... I plan on getting a GDE tune eventually. I plan on checking the intake elbow and butterfly valve in the morning but feed back would be nice.

Thanks, Derek

TJ2 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:01 am

Drewd wrote:

I'm betting its AFC valve and/or EGR valve related.

And I'm thinking Drew may well be right.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:18 am

Sounds like EGR.

Your best bet is to go ahead and get a GDE ECO tune from Keith and the guys in Wixom, MI.

This will alleviate your EGR/FCV issues and add about 20% fuel efficiency.

You can replace the EGR if you wish, but even the guys at your local Stealership will probably tell you it's an EGR issue and then replace the wrong EGR because to them your FCV and your actual EGR valve are both "EGR VALVES." (Trust me, been through it) That's also IF they don't destroy your ECU (happened to me) while they're programming it because their internet went down.

Your EGR/FCV will just fail again, so if you spend money there or even do it yourself you're just asking for trouble, it's a bad investment.

In the end, do what makes the most fiscal sense and what you can afford, but your rockers are paying for every day that EGR is running, trust me here too.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:47 am

Have you unplugged the MAF sensor yet?
Do that first and see if it doesn't fix it.

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:29 am

Dcordin44 wrote:

I checked the hoses for cracks, I just took off the hose from the turbo to the intercooler tonite and it looks like its seeping a tiny bit of oil around the end of the turbo and intercooler. I'm ordering new hoses. I pulled the MAF sensor a couple days ago and didn't notice a difference. I also checked the turbine for a second time tonite and there wasn't and movement and it spins freely and smoothly. Is the butterfly valve for the EGR? or something else? My CRD has 96k at the moment. No mods whats so ever, besides tires... I plan on getting a GDE tune eventually. I plan on checking the intake elbow and butterfly valve in the morning but feed back would be nice.

Thanks, Derek

Ok...Let me get this correct. You have 96k with no mods and have not changed the timing belt yet? Correct

1. You checked the Intercooler and turbo inlet hoses and other than a little oil they look good? Correct?
2. You tried driving with the "MAF" Mass air Flow sensor disconnected and it made no differance? Correct?
3. Did you inspect the "FCV" Flow Control Valve or Butter fly valve for looseness? It is located on the drivers side between the intake and the intercooler hose. Yes...it is part of the EGR system. It sometimes breaks and shuts of the air to the intake. Remove the hose and check inside for looseness.
4. You replaced the fuel filter. Be sure its tight? Also be sure the hose clamp on the left side of the filter housing is not cutting into the hose. They leak there alot. You may want to trim away a inch of hose and reconnect it. It dose not sound like you have a 2nd gen fuel head? The original lets in air. That may be your issue.

If none of this works, the problem may be Rockers. With 4 rockers per CYL you could have one or two failed. The engine would still run but would have a hard time under any type of load or anytime the turbo spools up.

Mine failed at 96k but also caused the belt to jump time. Where are you located? There may be someone close by to help you?

Good Luck!! KJJET

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:19 pm

Black smoke, no power, P0299. First things to do:
1. remove both CAC hoses and, if OEM, the woven covering. Inspect, particularly the bottom, for tears, small holes, or soggy with oil (as in like a sponge). If any found replace.
2. bypass boost pressure solenoid. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348 . If problem goes away replace solenoid.
3. inspect boost vacuum hoses associated with vacuum canister (black tower behind air filter box) particularly as they go under/behind coolant tank as they have been know to contact exhaust and melt resulting in insufficient boost to activate turbo. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240
4. check turbo variable vanes for movement. Per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment."

Loss of power...I need some help...

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