Hi, I'm new to the forum, and new to CRD ownership (just bought an 06 Sport w/ 77k miles last weekend ). I took a risk buying it, as it already had the CEL on, but pulled the trigger anyways since I got a good deal on it. Unfortunately since i didn't have anything to compare it to, while test driving I didn't notice that the turbo a little underpowering (I can feel it now though, after knowing what the code readout is). It's not entirely gone, as I can definitely feel added power as the turbo whistles up, but if I were to describe the situation, it sounds like more whistle than power received.

Foreshadowing aside, I took it in to my local mechanic for a readout and was getting a P0299 low boost code. He did a little research and found a factory firmware update that may help (not sure which update it was). He also mentioned excess oil in or around the intercooler line that he understood to be the turbo possibly going bad. After resetting the code, he sent me on my way, recommending the factory firmware update and if the turbo was going bad, to go ahead and drive it until it dies.

After digging around these fantastic threads for the last couple days, I came up with some of my own theories and things to try. (First, a little more info, after resetting the CEL code, I drove it for 2 days highway/town driving without it coming back on - it did come back on though after romping on the throttle up to 60mph). First things first, I'm going to carve out some time soon to complete the noob guide. Second, it sounds to me like it would be a boost hose issue, and I'm going to try some things described here http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74279&p=778094&hilit=p0299#p778094. Third, I'm postulating that the oil seen may be from the CCV, and may try an EHM. Forth, I'm considering a GDE Eco Tune.

My question for you fine folk is, does it sound like I'm going down the right path, or am I chasing my tail? Is the EHM something I should try? I have nearly zero auto mechanic experience, but I've spent my whole life taking things apart and putting them back together - I'm good enough with a wrench that most of this sounds doable for me (please set me in my place if you think I may be wrong there!). And my biggest question is the GDE tune - it's a good load of money to fork out, but it seems like everyone here swears by it - is it worth it? Thanks a ton!

Jared

First, IMO, gde tune is the best investment in your crd. Not only you get better torque, power and mileage, but your engine will sound so much better (edit: and most important, it takes care of the egr soot that's being pushed back to your intake). I'd do it ASAP. Since you'll end up removing your cac hoses anyways (and I'll personally go with samco), you can look at the turbo play, it shouldn't be any movement left-right. If you got the car from a dealer, then I'd definitely change the oil+filter too, you never know what the dealer put into...

Also, read this:
viewtopic.php?t=60636

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Mine felt slightly low on power when I bought it.
I ordered replacement aftermarket intercooler hoses (Mishimoto from Amazon, Samco brand is also excellent) and corrected the problem.

Oil from the CCV will deteriorate the factory hoses and create the low boost CEL code.

Check the NOOB sticky for more info

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2005 Silver KJ Sport CRD 138k miles
GDE ECO Tune
Rx Catch Can
Mishimoto Intercooler Hoses
Magnaflow 12226 Muffler
Bilstein HD Shocks
Firestone Destination LE2
3rd owner
2012 Chevrolet Camaro SS
6.2L V-8, 6 speed manual transmission
Engine and suspension mods by Vengeance Racing
Original owner

I have not yet found the source of my low boost engine code. I have no intake/cooler hose issues, the intake boot is sound, my Samco boost hoses are in good shape although weeping slightly. My MAP sensor looks good and clean as I have had EGR disabled for 80k miles now.

It's currently in the shop having the power steering repaired, and my mechanic said he would verify if the MAP sensor is actually working, just to limit the possibilities, but he also says this is a difficult issue to identify as there are vacuum controls and the turbo actuator involved with the code as well.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Read this link as well before you start with mods on your now running Jeep.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74236

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

What flman is saying is that the ehm can cause trouble and you need to pay attention with ehm mod (it can freeze and blow your seals). If you will get the gde tune, there isn't need to do ehm, if you really want a better way, go with provent (with a capped oil drain hose or a release valve on the hose, or, route the oil drain under oil level in your oil pan - all those to avoid air suction through provent's oil drain hose from your intake), which again, as long as you have gde tune, is not a must, only a nice to have.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Have you checked your intercooler for leaks?

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

I have not, and I am not sure how to do that. I did hear back from my mechanic today, and he can find nothing obvious either, except for the fact my transmission was 5 ( F I V E ) quarts low.

Once I get it back on Saturday, we'll see how it drives.

Once more thing, I recently drove this from Colorado down to Missouri, and the CEL for low boost went away until I brought it back up to altitude. Figure that out....

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Thanks for the info everyone. I purchased the GDE tune yesterday (purchased at 12:03pm, they had the shipping label printed at 12:21pm - thanks for the quickness, GDE!). Digging around in the engine bay a little bit last night, I found that the vacuum modulator and the boost pressure solenoid have broken free from where they're supposed to be mounted on top of the vacuum reservoir, so they're just floating in the engine bay, tethered only by their connected hoses/wires. The vacuum lines feel like they're loose, but I can't tell whether or not everything is properly connected without removing the coolant bottle, so that's going to be the first thing I'm going to check. Does anybody have any good pictures of what it's supposed to look like in there (lines and all) that I can use as a point of reference? Any additional advice? Again, thanks.

Hey for informational purposes, I have an extra of that whole setup if you need it. I'd be willing to part with it cheaply. I recently had to replace my turbo and have all that extra stuff with it.

I'd be willing to get it out of my garage for the cost to ship it to you if yours is broken and you need to replace part of it.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Hey for informational purposes, I have an extra of that whole setup if you need it. I'd be willing to part with it cheaply. I recently had to replace my turbo and have all that extra stuff with it.

I'd be willing to get it out of my garage for the cost to ship it to you if yours is broken and you need to replace part of it.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

There are a few pictures on topan's post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240 and if you push thru my posted links there are some pictures associated with the boost pressure solenoid bypass. As I recall under/behind the coolant tank is a "T" fitting that the vacuum tower vacuum line plugs into.

FYI if pulling the coolant tank there is a metal flange under the tank that slids into a recess in the bottom of the tank such that when you undo the obvious bolts the tank won't lift out. Rather it has to be pulled forward off that metal bracket before it will lift. Take care of the low fluid sensor on the bottom of the tank; you may have to unclip the wire while working. Also there is one obvious coolant hose to the tank that can be pulled and rerouted in which case the tank can be lifted toward the passenger side and rested on its side while you work. On reinstall you can go to the trouble of sliding the tank back onto the metal bracket or just rest it on top.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Well air pressure at sea level is 14.696 psia and at 5280 (Denver) is 12.227 psia. 14.696 - 12.227 = 2.496 psia. So your air pressure 1 mile up is about 2.5 psi lower than at sea level. Something may be running right at the minimum level to keep the CEL off at a lower altitude, but is triggering at at higher altitude unless somehow the ECM is able to compensate for altitude.

You would have to isolate your intercooler and seal the ends so you could pressurize it, probably around 30 psig and see if you can find a leak anywhere with some soap bubbles.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

To pressure test your intercooler get some PVC end caps that fit in the turbo and intake ends of the hoses. Drill one and push a tire valve stem in it. Clamp them in the hoses with the factory clamps and pressurize no higher than 20psi. They can fly out and break stuff if you go too high and it's not pretty. Listen or use soapy water to find leaks. Most common is at the upper passenger corner.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

That does not sound difficult, I'll have to give it a try, thanks.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Well I took the afternoon yesterday to dig into some things: I cleaned the gunked-up MAP, changed the terribly dirty air filter, ordered a fuel filter, and checked a checked some hoses - here are some of the things I found. The end of the clean air hose was folded on itself at the air box. The top CAC hose seemed fine (no splits and seemed to hold pressure), and flexes nicely when I step on the accelerator. The vacuum line going to the turbo did look kinked where it connects - likely due to how the assembly is free floating in the engine bay. I zip tied it together to hold it in place, and put the clean air hose back on properly. On a test drive it *seemed* better. I should get the GDE module in the mail soon - I'll clear the P0299 and take it for a run to see if it comes back on. Is there anything else I need to check/do?

As a side question, where does the other vacuum line go and what's its purpose? It T's behind the coolant reservoir, and goes to the brake system (I think?), and somewhere else?