Thanks! I hope it's not going to be a general pattern, even though we all know Chrysler transmissions suck big time. The only Chrysler tranny that's ok is the one on cummins pickups and the aw4 from cherokee. But last is not actually Chrysler, lol, don't know about cummins...

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

After almost 8 years and ~98K miles, I'm still happy with mine. I've had some of the typical problems - EGR, intercooler hoses, alternator pulley - but nothing serious. My beast just runs. It's my 5th and favorite Jeep, and besides an old MGB, the vehicle I have kept the longest.

What I've been very unhappy about is Chysler's abandonment of us. Finding dealers with techs who know what they are doing has been nearly impossible, and Chysler's handling of the torque converter issue was a rip-off. Fortunately, the great people on this forum have shared their experiences and know-how over the years. So thank you to all of you gearheads on LOST!

I just bought my CRD a little over 4 months ago. I knew what I was getting myself into before I purchased it. I have wanted one of these since the rumblings on the internet back in late 2003 that DC was gonna sell them in the US. Oh but wait.... NOT IN MY STATE! So I tried to come up with a solution to "cheat the system" and buy one in Oregon. Wasn't gonna work. I ended up settling on a 2005 Ford Escape XLS 4x4.

Anyway, I still wanted a Liberty CRD. The bug just wouldn't go away. So after searching and driving about 15 different used CRD's in a 150 mile radius of my home, I finally found the one. My 2006 with 52k miles. The interior was beautiful and it had low miles. Little did I know that it had been in military storage next to the ocean in Guam and that everything I couldn't see was rusty. So I am dealing with that. I give the engine a WD40 bath every two weeks. It's coming along. Looking better every time. It runs great! I get mid 20's around town and 31 on the highway.

So far I have around $21k into the vehicle. My choice! I made a list of what I wanted to do to it the week I purchased it. So far I have installed the Suncoast TC, GDE tuned the engine and trans, upgraded the fuel filter head to the second gen, and replaced the sound system. Oh yeah and 5 new BFG Rugged Trail 245/70 R16's

Within the next two weeks I am having the timing belt replaced. Yes, I only have 59k miles on it but it's 7+ years old now and rubber will rot out just as fast as it wears out. So I it's getting done. When I have that done all hoses (radiator & heater) will be replaced as well as the ceramic glow plugs with new eTechno1's. All idle pulleys on both timing belt and serp. Water pump and thermostat.

I hope to get many good miles out of my CRD. I only will use Amsoil in the drivetrain and will change it every 5k miles. It's cheap insurance!

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2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD (purchased 10/30/12 w/ 52k miles) GDE HotTune & Eco TCU, Suncoast TC, Amsoil Full SAPS (EFM) 5w40, Amsoil ATF, 7" touchscreen Android powered stereo (direct from China) w/ 4G LTE mobile data for streaming Netflix, HBO GO, Slingbox, Pandora, etc.

120k miles and I'm back to hating it after replacing the tranny and torque converter 4k miles ago. I would like to go 12 months without a CEL/MIL or other lights on the &*()_(*&^Y% dash.

I have an ABS wiring or sensor issue since my cruise, ABS, ESP, other crap isn't working anymore effective today.

I farking hate having to fix something every couple of months. My wife's GC CRD has a fuel issue and has been deadlined for several weeks until I can get the time to figure it out (MPROP most likely).

I've had my jeep for about 30k now. Bought it with 85k and seems to be going good(knock on wood)

I've had the same problem lately. My abs and parking brake light will come on and I've noticed in the snow I don't have anti lock brakes when that happens.

Anyone have any inside on this. I'm thinhking is a faulty wire or plug somewhere cuz it will usually go off when I hit a bump

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Had this occur in past and it was wiring to right rear wheel sensor that had multiple breaks in it cuz Jeep decided to go with cheap thin wire that is a little short too. I ended up splicing new wire under the rear seat harness and running it to the wheel sensors. Mine is intermittent and its probably the other side now needing new wiring but will find out for sure on Tuesday when i have the ABS codes read.

After seeing the many issues on the forum and addressing a few of my own I settled with a Grand Cherokee v8 instead. This was also due to wanting more ground clearance than a small 3" lift could provide on the KJ. The GC was simpler and easier/cheaper to work on. Economy wasn't as good, but that was the only sacrifice. I will say that the build quality of the body/electronice, etc of the 04 and back GC's were horrible in comparison to the KJ's. I had BOTH drivers and passengers doors window switches stop working due to a power wire that went into the door breaking on both doors simply from opening and closing over 100k miles. I mean, REALLY? Don't manufacturers pick wire to withstand regular use? It was a course wire (larger diameter, but few strands inside), not fine and simply failed due to stress of bending too frequently. I had so many issues with the GC I was glad to be rid of it as well.

All in all, I want simple and efficient or some compromise of both. I am seriously considering a 2005-2006 Ram 2500 5.9 Diesel.

No EGR or EGR cooler, no other useless crap under the hood. It doesn't run dual non redundant sensors like the KJ (MAP and MAF) and it is VERY mass produced with a lot of aftermarket options for parts/upgrades. It doesn't have a Diesel Particulate filter or urea. It's just plain simple efficient power for a truck. I always liked the idea of a small diesel SUV, but the KJ is over engineered and over complicated and with the expensive parts prices it just didn't add up to me. At least I was nice enough to do the timing belt at 99k miles right before handing over to a new owner so he has a nice fresh start.

Don't get me wrong, I LOVED the KJ diesel...so much that I left part of my heart with it. With GDE's tune it was amazing and enjoyable to drive. It had great economy/performance (after the tune), but at the cost of complexity and several known design flaws it wasn't something I wanted to keep long term.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

You will be very happy with the ISB, they are kind of hard on injector pumps, but that is due to the OE lift pump being crappy, and weak, so the IP ends up pulling some of the fuel in on its own, and gets hot, overheats the electronics.

So be sure to put in an aftermarket high volume pump with 1/2" supply and return lines also a fuel pressure gauge is good to be sure every thing is keeping that pump cool.

I had my ISB in a 2001 Freightliner FL50, that was a real diesel with no aluminum in the block or head.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Well got it back from the dealer, no charges, no faults it just started up and ran for them. I stopped off at the Ford delaer last night and ALMOST bought a Ford. I was inches away from trading. If someone on here offers me up a good deal, I think I might have to part with it.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

I have been happy with it for a while, but I will not be keeping it.

It's served me well for a year. I bought it at about 76,000 a year ago and put a TON of miles to it with constant 300 mile trips on the weekend and such. The only issues have been electrical (ABS & Odomoter will not move), and EGR (which was disabled w/ ORM long ago). This was until my water pump leaked out all of my antifreeze and my engine overheated. I'm still working to get that fixed as we speak.

The engine overheating was partly to blame on my ignorance, but that's not the reason I am parting ways with it after it is fixed. The reason is that things in this car are expensive to fix and the parts are rare. If I had a gas Liberty, which I would never have, I would be looking at half the cost of replacing an engine for the diesel.

My next car is probably going to be something more generic and...foreign. I'm getting out of the small diesel game, as much as I want to to get a Jetta TDI next. All cars are going to break, but I want one that is usually cheap and easy to fix. I will surely miss driving the CRD though. I probably will get a cheap Jeep of some sort for a 4x4 backup vehicle one day.

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Low mileage 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD for sale.

Then a 99 cherokee is for you, if you don't mind the bad mileage... 2000 and 2001 have some head issues, just FYI, you may or may not have them. 99 though is a winner and also cheap to maintain. Vw golf/Jetta tdi is also a great little diesel, but the don't come in 4wd here, that's why in fact I didn't buy one. You definitely won't have the issues you have with the crd, Vw in fact tests their engines for us market very thoroughly.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I drove a cherokee for a long time. I actually didn't mind the fuel mileage so bad. I think next won't be an SUV for my main driver. I will be getting an old 4x4 for a backup at some point.

As for the VW, I will look into it.

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Low mileage 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD for sale.

At the moment I'm still very pleased with my rig and plan to keep it for a while. I got it with about 110K miles on it and immediately did the TB job and all the other simple Noob guide stuff, added the GDE tune at about 115K, and had to replace the thermostat at around 120K. Hopefully I'm not jinxing myself but I haven't had any other signifiant trouble. I think it may have helped that the previous owners were a retired couple that traded it in for a new CRD grand cherokee when they came out, and my brother who drives very conservatively and has been accused of driving like "a little old lady". So I doubt the unit was ever terribly abused or pushed to its limits.
I will admit that the potential of having turbo failure, etc., looming over me gets a little annoying at times and I occasionally get the urge to maybe sell while everything is good. Problem is, it's turned out to be the ultimate "bird-dog-mobile". It pulls our little dog trailer like it's not even there while getting the same mileage, the wheels on the jeep and trailer line up perfectly so driving down rutted two-tracks is easy, and it can turn and back that trailer on a dime. So, for now, I'm going to take my chances and keep going since there's nothing else out there I'm interested in right now.
Here's a picture of the "bird-dog-mobile" that traveled over much of the upper midwest this past fall:

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2005 CRD Sport
Samco hoses, GDE Ecotune, Fumoto drain valve
Winter mods: air box snorkel removed, front grill covered, viscous fan and clutch removed

I read every one of these posts. I have been frustrated with my 2005 Jeep this Winter. It's the EGR. The more I read about my Jeep, the more I want to dump it. I live where it's cold. If I don't put a maintainer on the battery, it will be dead in a few days during cold weather. I have disconnected it at times. You shouldn't have to do that. I also don't think the mileage is that great. I got about 26 to 28 when new (2005). Now I get somewhere in the low 20's. Maybe it's better on a longer trip. I've disconnected the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor on the air cleaner to disable the EGR. You shouldn't have to do that. I change my oil regularly with Mobil 1 SAE 0-40. This is very expensive oil. A Jeep is supposed to be a rugged vehicle that doesn't require the pampering of things like synthetic oil. You shouldn't have to have special tuning from 3rd party companies like Green Diesel Engineering just to have the vehicle run properly. I've had a lot of things fail, EGR, wheel bearings, wiring issues, electric mirrors, fuel injectors, aluminum rims, torque converter, recalled ball joints, brake issues etc. I had my previous vehicle, a truck, for 12 years with few problems.

I want a vehicle that gets me from point A to point B, can haul a small trailer and only needs simple maintenance like oil changes, filters and brake pads. I want better fuel mileage than the Jeep. I want the car designed for easy maintenance. My brother owns a Ford Escape and loves it. I think I may be going to something like that. He has good traction in snow with front wheel drive. I need to engage the 4 wheel drive too often.

I bought the Jeep new in 2005. At the time I thought the longevity of a diesel engine, the ruggedness of a Jeep and the high mileage of a diesel engine would be a good combination. It looks like I was wrong.

Thanks,.........It felt good to complain about the thing. Good Luck with yours.