Skid plates ??

CGman · **Posted:** Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:58 pm

I've spent over an hour looking at all the info on Skid plates for the CRD, but I still have a couple of questions.

1. What was the final diagnosis on the ASFIR Aluminum skid plates? Seems there was no discussion for the last 6 years.

2. Do all of the 'stock' Mopar skids fit both the gas and diesel models? No mods are needed?

3. Thoughts? Looks like $300 for Mopar set vs $500ish for Aluminum set if they both will work.

4. Thoughts on the Mopar trailer hitch vs aftermarket model?

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:26 am

Can't answer for all 1-4, but I can tell you that stock mopar skids fit both gasser and diesel. The skids come with all screws and required hardware. An impact/ compressed air wrench helps a lot since there is some rust on the threads for the gas tank skid. (The nuts are already part of the jeep). The other ones don't have mounted nuts in the frame, they are part of the kit and come with it. Regarding the hitch, I'd get a cheap one from eBay or similar store, it's basically the same thing (probably less than 150$). Don't remember exactly, I think you mount the hitch over the tank skid, if you care about that, let me know and I'll take a look.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:14 am

There are several sources for after market KJ skids and if you do serious off road the after market ones will be stronger than OEM not that OEM are bad just they are not super sturdy.

You should check but I suspect you already have the front Mopar skid under the engine/oil pan. If that's all you have you need the transfer case, transmission, and fuel tank skids to have a full set. The parts fiche do not distinguish between the gasser and diesel for those skids but is less clear on the front skid (one under the engine). The 3 skids I think you likely need run ca. $65, $65, and $142 respectively more or less plus shipping and I know for a fact that at least the transfer case and transmission skids come with the needed mounting hardware. FYI I paid my local general automotive place that I've used for years $20 for a few minutes of lift time so I did not have to crawl around on the ground to mount them. I did not bother with the fuel tank skid as I don't off road much and when I do it's mostly sand or mud very rarely anything rocky.

The OEM hitch runs ca. $200 plus shipping and both ones that I've seen come with an integral lighting plug; whether the plug comes in the pkg I do not know. Receiver and ball are separate. 2 thoughts:
1. the hitch ball sits just below the spare tire and can be a pain to access. Solution is to remove spare; remove spare mount; rotate mount 180 degrees and reinstall; reinstall tire. This moves the bottom of the tire out of the way of the hitch ball. If you use a tire cover add some stainless steel washers to the lower mount bolts, before putting the mount back on, to set the bottom of the tire a bit further out from the bumper.
2. if you tow often, tow heavy, tow in a hot climate add a tranny cooler.
OEM hitch bolts to frame the L and R of tank skid; access to bolts appears easy. I cannot comment on how to hook up wires for trailer as the CRDs I know about came with hitch from factory.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:40 am

papaindigo wrote:

I cannot comment on how to hook up wires for trailer as the CRDs I know about came with hitch from factory.

There are some "snap-on" kits on eBay, I think Kurt sells one, you just need to take out the stop lights, plug those wires, put the stop back. Since I tow once a year, my tow electric connector is zip-tied to the plastic rear bumper since my hitch didn't came with a plug holder. That's another good point to consider when ordering a hitch.

John3:17 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:04 pm

On my gasser the 4 wire from hoppe plugs into the factory harness behind the side panel in the passenger side rear luggage area

I'd like to hear from someone with hands on experience with the ASFIR skids as well.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:08 pm

FYI: the gas vs. CRD fitment is NOT all the same. The CRD transmission plate (actually, I don't think there WAS one made for the CRD-specifically) is the same as the model that fit the early gasoline automatics with the 45RFE transmission. The later gassers use a different transmission that has a slightly different rear mounting location for the skid. They are compatible, but there's a chance if you get a "universal fit" you'll have to drill new holes. For example, SkidRow is one of the few aftermarket manufacturers for KJ skids. I use their front and it fits and works great. I tried to use their universal transmission skid and the bolts didn't line up. They were genuinely confused as to why the holes didn't line up but were nice enough to offer me a refund when I found a used mopar skid that fit perfectly. Mopar may have made a skid that fits all years, but I've yet to see it. When in doubt, use a measuring tape and check diagonals between the front and rear bolt holes. A decent parts person will be willing to do the same instead of risking a return on an item.

As for Mopar vs Aluminum, that's like apples vs Kobe beef, not a valid comparison. The Asfir skids are comparable in tensile strength to aftermarket steel, but as a much lower weight and somewhat less durability (steel's arguably more resilient for repetitive impacts). The mopar skids are a great value for on-road and undeveloped road driving and will take quite a bit of abuse off-road, but they'll bend eventually after a couple good hits. Aftermarket skids can typically take multiple hard impacts before showing much (if any) deformation.

Dan

John3:17 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:28 pm

So your saying the ASFIR are better than mopar but wont hold up as well as say skid row?

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:16 pm

Take it from a guy with the full asfir skid set except the gas tonk they can take a beating. I do not take it easy on my jeep and have nailed them hard a few times on rocks no bending what so ever. Also in the wieght comparison i think my whole skid set may wiegh 120 pounds and that is including my 1/4 boiler formed gas tank skid. On top of that you only have to buy 3 skid plates to cover everything and i mean everything with my new button head bolts i am pretty much flat underneath.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:02 pm

audiboy86 wrote:

Take it from a guy with the full asfir skid set except the gas tonk they can take a beating. I do not take it easy on my jeep and have nailed them hard a few times on rocks no bending what so ever.

I can vouch for the hard hits against rock, personally. He tried to fling some of them at me with his rear wheels :wink:

CGman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:27 pm

I'm not going to be doing any rock crawling, but if i can get get a premium quality set that's lighter for not much more than mopar, that will tempt me. On the hitch, I have found a 2002 salvage yard with nice ball and harness for under $100

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:52 pm

John3:17 wrote:

So your saying the ASFIR are better than mopar but wont hold up as well as say skid row?

There about equal in strength.Get the skidrow if you want strength.

No OEM plates or those aluminum ones would have lasted long on my KJ,and yes I play on very big rocks.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:58 pm

I thought you want a souvenir Dan. And I can promise there will be a lot less slinging this year and a lot more crawling. Also the asfir engine skid was on sale last it looked for 155.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:09 pm

and FYI - several of us have managed to bent the Mopar tranny skid enough to damage other parts.

mine bent the tranny oil pan.

JL Rockies took out the engine oil filter......

CGman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:12 pm

Picked up used Mopar hitch yesterday with nice multi-ball still attached for $95 from the salvage yard

ASFIR skids ordered last week, will be here later this week! :mrgreen:

Getting ready to start the 18mm Fumoto oil drain project!

Hopefully I'll have enough $$ for GDE next month!

CGman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:24 am

Fumoto installed! any tricks on getting the stock engine skid off?

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:39 am

CGman wrote:

Fumoto installed! any tricks on getting the stock engine skid off?

AeroKroil and a good impact wrench :roll:

CGman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:52 pm

let me clarify, I've removed the two back bolts, but the front skid seems to be attached
or clipped somewhere else

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:14 pm

Slid under the front bumper and look up toward the front of the skid; there are 2 holes in the skid on the left and right; up inside those holes are what I'm pretty sure are the forward skid retaining bolts at least I can feel bolt heads in there and that appears to match the pic on the part's fiche.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:52 pm

Yep, all four bolts are the same size but the fronts are recessed. A 6-8" socket extension and the same socket you used to get off the two rear ones is all you need. Don't forget to support the skid while you're loosening it... a couple nimble feet and strong calf muscles is all you need on the factory skid (or a friend under there to lend a hand). I recommend leaving the last couple threads of the bolts (at least one in front and one in rear) in place until they're all ready to come out so you don't have to support the weight more than 30 seconds or so.

Dan

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:33 pm

I always just left the back 2 in and dropped the skid that way.

Skid plates ??

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