A local here is having problems with his 2005 KJ CRD overheating. Initial thoughts related to the thermostat but he's pulled the radiator out and taken it to a specialist to check the flow. Turns out it was 50% blocked and the center section tubes are filled with some sort of yellow crud that can't be flushed out. The radiator guys are going to try and rod the tubes out.
Has anyone had this sort of problem and if so what did you do?
Is there an aftermarket radiator available? Can't find one here and the Jeep OEM is really expensive. The poor guys retired and looking for a cost effective solution. Can a new core be built to crimp onto the side tanks?

Opinions?

The Radiator is $200. If that is expensive my suggestion would be for him to sell it and buy something else.

The "yellow crud" is probably stop-leak.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Actually the current online price for a radiator (PN 5174154AB) looks to be more like $270 or a bit more plus shipping and Glend is in Oz so prices may be much different there. I'm not sure rebuild is an option as I think, but am not sure, that this is an aluminum core with plastic side tanks but that is a question best asked of local radiator shops. If I'm right about the construction it's still possible that they could find metal tanks and a core that could be made to fit. Just a reminder the 05/06, at least, KJ CRD transmission cooler is in the bottom of the AC condensor not the radiator unless things are different on the export model.

The yellow crud could be stop leak or could be something resulting from mixing of HOAT, recommended, with not HOAT, not recommended, antifreeze. There has been some chat to the effect that such mixing can cause problems.

Not to raise bad vibes but if his radiator is clogged my bet is the heater core is also.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

X2. Wrong coolant has been an historic problem. On top of all that the overheat may have warped the head.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

A replacement radiator from Chrysler Jeep Australia is over $800 and there would be a six week wait while they order it in (non-stock item). The cheapest I have been able to locate for him is about $227USD but there would be over $100 in shipping on that as well. There are a fair number of US suppliers at around $300 and I know that IDparts will ship same day but there is still the shipping costs to deal with.

The radiator guy is trying to 'rod out' the core but there doesn't seem to be a replacement core builder down here that would do a custom core to fit the side tanks. If they can rod it out then he will re-install it for now and worry about a new one when he can afford it.

The realities of being on the end of a long supply chain affects the cost of everything to do with Jeeps down here, and yet were the largest market for Jeep outside the US, go figure.

Yeah I agree his heater core is probably a mess as well.

The radiator guy suspects the previous owner (my friend is obviously not the original owner), probably put non-HOAT coolant in it or used hard tap (or outback bore water) to fill the tank in the past and that led to the problem.

The core rod out cleaning has apparently worked and the radiator has been re-assembled and tested. So he is keeping the old one for now. Thanks for all the suggestions and info.

What exactly is a "rod out" cleaning?

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

They take a piece of metal, not unlike a dip stick and run it down through the individual tubes in the radiator, this cleans out the crud and reopens the narrow passages.

Check for electrolysis.

Here's some good read on electrolysis;

http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101/how-to-test

http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/electrolysis.htm

http://www.carolinarodshop.com/Store/Gr ... olysis.htm

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I wasn't trying to be a butthole or be confusing, I have family that works for Chrysler and I can get OEM parts at cost.

My brother works for Fedex and I can ship stuff worldwide out of Indianapolis on the cheap.

Just saying, I might be able to help in situations like this, and I guess I should've posted that instead of the snarkiness that I did post.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings