Trying to change the timing belt and we can not get the fan off! Any ideas or tips??

Chuckle you are not the first one. See http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html for a bit of a how to. As I recall the fan nut is 36mm and you can either use the allen key trick or a "long" socket on the same nut to hold the fan base in place while you persuade the nut to come loose. I have the Lislie pneumatic fan removal tool and even that won't just pop it off, the post uses a palm nailer, some report using a really long shaft wrench or a small sledge hammer on the wrench handle. On reinstall use a bit of antiseize and just spin the fan on, no need to tighten it once it bottoms out as it spins in the tighten direction (PS put on a Hayden 2905 fan clutch while in there)

Once it starts to come loose undo the 2 fan shroud bolts (carefully save them as length matters); put a towel or piece of cardboard in front of the fan to prevent damage to the radiator as you have to remove the fan and shroud together (unless you have done a fan shroud mod per viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322); as I recall you will have to tilt the shroud left and right to get the bolt tabs to clear. Note the ac line can be unclipped and simply lifted up and back over the engine and you should use a couple of zip ties to capture the fan shroud nuts in their recesses.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I always use the 13mm socket trick (and a deep airtool socket seems to be a better fit on mine), pushed through one of the pulley holes onto the bracket mounting bolt head behind the pulley, when rotated this socket will lock the pulley in place and allow you to knock the big nut loose with a big adjustable wrench placed over the nut (counter- clockwise), yes ou will need to hit it with a hammer in the counterclockwise direction. You will probably have to do all the lossening with the wrench as they don't just suddenly become finger tight when you break them loose.

Fan shroud mod is a must, from my perspective.

Well....after 5 hours or wrenching and hitting we still could not get it loose. My buddy has been working on cars for over 20 years and he's never run into a problem like this before. Anyone in the central IL area wanna try to tackle it??

Wow, that's TIGHT. I guess the good news is that it wasn't about to fly off in use.

Of course, now that you've loosened it up, the next guy to take a swing at it, it will come off with just a twist of the wrist. Isn't that the food jar lids do it?

Are you sure your turning it in the correct direction?

Yes counterclockwise.

suggest a liberal application of Kroil, repeated twice daily for a couple of days.

I used the largest adjustable I have with a titanium cheater on the fan, and a deep impact 13 MM with a breaker bar to hold it in position, and it did come off. Did not take time for Kroil.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

If you are knocking the wrench handle to your left when you are facing the rear of the vehicle when standing in front of it, you ARE turning it in the correct direction. If you are not turning it the wrong way, the most likely cause of its recalcitrance is that you are not using a totally solid method of holding the pulley absolutely motionless when you whack the wrench handle. If there is just a few thou of movement, much of the impact force is dissipated, defeating what you are trying to do. I use a 5/8" combination wrench with a bolt, nut and washers on the box end. The open end hooks into one of the holes in the front of the hub. This provides rock solid locking so ALL of the force of the blow is transferred to nut to break it free.

Another possibility is that someone made a well-intentioned, but totally misguided move by using something like red locktite the last time it was assembled. This unit tightens itself automatically in use, so no thread locker needed. I use lots of anti-seize to facilitate removal the next time. Rust is also a possibility, but unusual on these specific parts.

Sorry this is fighting you so hard.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP