Bad diesel fuel

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Jul 03, 2013 2:51 pm

Buy some non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner, take out your MAF sensor and clean it. Take out your MAP sensor and clean it. Change your air filter.

That should clear your P0101, if not, you may have a defective MAF sensor.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Hexus wrote:

Buy some non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner, take out your MAF sensor and clean it. Take out your MAP sensor and clean it. Change your air filter.

That should clear your P0101, if not, you may have a defective MAF sensor.

Yes, I've never cleaned the MAP sensor. I should do that.

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

papaindigo wrote:

As Dent pointed out my original boost pressure solenoid link did not go to the right places. That has been corrected.

Thanks Pap! I am chasing a similar problem and your comments have been very helpful. I'll start my own thread once I run out of ideas from the search engine. I noticed that several links in the loss of power threads go to the wrong thread, not only yours. I wonder if this is some symptom of the forum.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:57 pm

hgrimberg wrote:

Hi Papaindigo,
Thank you for all your help. It seems that I was posting here while at the same time you were responding me.
For what you say, P1140 WATER IN FUEL CONDITION is actually VACUUM RESERVOIR SOLENOID SHORT CIRCUIT, then this is not related to any water in fuel. Somehow the showing up of the check engine light happened right after filling the tank. Then I dont know what could be the relationship, if any.
I will try to see where all the parts you mention are in the engine. I'll continue searching on google for the location of all these parts and see if I can fix it.
Thank you!

I will say it again in case you missed it, P1140 means that you have a malfunctioning FCV. P0101 and P0299 go a long way to confirming this. Search the Liberty CRD forum here for P1140 and see what you get. There is nothing about bad fuel, MAP sensors, or vacuum reservoirs.

Here is one result: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=45391

Found with http://www.google.com/search?q=P1140+si ... tjeeps.com

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:44 am

CATCRD has a good point about P1140 which I had forgotten (must add note to FSM PDFs to help me remember). A common fix for the FCV is to simply remove the butterfly valve which IIRC just involves 2 screws.

However, if I read the entire string correctly once the codes were cleared:
1. speed remains limited as does boost and
2. the only code that reappears is P0299 plus a new code P0101. The P1140 apparently has not returned.

I'd still be inclined to check what comes out of the fuel filter. If ok then do the boost pressure solenoid bypass which takes all of 10 minutes to do and test. Cleaning the referenced sensors sure cannot hurt and you might try simply unplugging the MAF sensor (throws a code but shuts EGR circuit off).

Probably wouldn't hurt to check CAC hoses for splits also.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

I'll try removing the fuel filter first and see if that makes some solid in the filter to go away...
Then, I'll see if I can bypass those hoses...
Thank you papaingo!

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Ok, so I didnt removed the fuel filter yet because I will need some tools for that, but I did the bypass of the little hoses.
So, now what is that I have to check?
My Jeep is working properly. I tried to accelerate the car and it looks like with a bit more of power at the beginning but then like going at 40 miles/hour it doesnt automatically change gears and doesnt really go fast. Same as before.
Like the only difference in power I see is at the beginning but not so much at like 40 m/hr.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jul 04, 2013 1:14 pm

If you have a bad boost pressure solenoid and do the bypass then once you have run the engine for 10-30 seconds to rebuild vacuum in the vacuum tower your turbo should provide boost like normal. Thoughts:
1. check that other link I posted regarding a collapsed vacuum hose. Just a thought if you can trace that hose (sorry I cannot check but I have the GDE Stage II turbo so I no longer have the vacuum assembly) you might just unplug it from the vacuum tower; place your finger over the end; have someone crank up the engine; and see if the hose pulls a vacuum. If not that's your problem. If so that's not your problem.
2. if that's not your problem I'm back to my original fuel starvation due to a plugged filter thought.
3. if that's not it I'm out of bright ideas but you might try removal of the FCV butterfly on the theory that if the FCV has failed closed then you have no or little boost.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Just a few questions over the parts you mention here:

"papaindigo" If you have a bad boost pressure solenoid and do the bypass then once you have run the engine for 10-30 seconds to rebuild vacuum in the vacuum tower your turbo should provide boost like normal. Thoughts:
1. check that other link I posted regarding a collapsed vacuum hose. Just a thought if you can trace that hose (sorry I cannot check but I have the GDE Stage II turbo so I no longer have the vacuum assembly) you might just unplug it from the vacuum tower; place your finger over the end; have someone crank up the engine; and see if the hose pulls a vacuum. If not that's your problem. If so that's not your problem.

Where is the collapsed vacuum hose? Which one is? The vacuum tower is the solenoid? What side of the hose should I place my finger?

2. if that's not your problem I'm back to my original fuel starvation due to a plugged filter thought.
3. if that's not it I'm out of bright ideas but you might try removal of the FCV butterfly on the theory that if the FCV has failed closed then you have no or little boost.

Where is the FCV Butterfly?

BTW, On my scanner which is the Rev2 app on my iphone I can measure the boost. Do you know what is the normal amount of boost I should have at any given speed? I measured the boost on my scanner and if I accelerate at idle at 2500 rpm, the boost is 0.2 psi with the bypass.
Thank you,

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Ok, solved!
It was just a hose from the exhaust system that was disconnected. I plugged it in and the turbo is back. Simple as that...
Thank you for all you guys help!

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