front locker?

MrJ · **Joined:** Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:08 pm **Posts:** 35

interested in putting a locker in the front. i know it has to be selectable, which leaves me with ox, arb, or eaton. being a d30 carrier, and JBA steel diff being d30, will the be able to transfer over as long as i keep the spline count the same on the shafts? i have an 02 renegade btw; how/where can i find my spline count? thanks everyone!

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:27 pm

ARB or DTT

MrJ · **Joined:** Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:08 pm **Posts:** 35

any reason why not eaton e?

jmark · **Posted:** Wed Jul 17, 2013 9:31 am

Eaton E-Lockers are known to have some issues,

I've got DTTs front and rear and am very impressed with them.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 17, 2013 2:15 pm

ARB gives you and excuse for on board air and i have never seen a cracked front diff with and ARB in it seen 2 now with DTTs.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 18, 2013 12:41 am

audiboy86 wrote:

ARB gives you and excuse for on board air and i have never seen a cracked front diff with and ARB in it seen 2 now with DTTs.

Gotta know how to drive offroad with the DTT's.With a front ARB your not driving around all the time locked,in fact your most likely never locked for more then a few feet so your open 99% of the time.

I disintergrated a CV jount but left the D30A housing and DTT in perfect condition.

Grannysgoat · **Posted:** Thu Jul 18, 2013 4:01 pm

Well OK, have to protect my interest. I have an Eaton E Locker, have had no issues and have beat the crap out of it. Just like the others, use it like you are supposed to and it will live.

TheBlueKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jul 18, 2013 11:28 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

audiboy86 wrote:

ARB gives you and excuse for on board air and i have never seen a cracked front diff with and ARB in it seen 2 now with DTTs.

Gotta know how to drive offroad with the DTT's.With a front ARB your not driving around all the time locked,in fact your most likely never locked for more then a few feet so your open 99% of the time.

I disintergrated a CV jount but left the D30A housing and DTT in perfect condition.

Was that when you decided to SFA?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 18, 2013 11:31 pm

TheBlueKJ wrote:

Was that when you decided to SFA?

No that just accelerated the start date.

TheBlueKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jul 18, 2013 11:40 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

TheBlueKJ wrote:

Was that when you decided to SFA?

No that just accelerated the start date.

Ahhh. So basically the DTT is better left to SFA's than an IFS due to this

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 19, 2013 12:03 am

TheBlueKJ wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

TheBlueKJ wrote:

Was that when you decided to SFA?

No that just accelerated the start date.

Ahhh. So basically the DTT is better left to SFA's than an IFS due to this

No,the DTT and D30A housing survived without any damage.I sold it to JL Rockies which then was installed in his CRD and wheeled hard for many more years before he sold his CRD.

I switched to a ARB front when I did the SFA due to the DTT is not rated for 35"+ tires.I actually miss the DTT up front.

TheJawsOfDeath · **Joined:** Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:56 am **Posts:** 305

TJKJ you say you miss the DTT, can you elaborate?

TheBlueKJ · **Posted:** Fri Jul 19, 2013 12:19 am

Understood. How hard were you wheeling to do that to a CV then?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 19, 2013 9:59 pm

TheJawsOfDeath wrote:

TJKJ you say you miss the DTT, can you elaborate?

For snow/ice the DTT up front is the best,just a point and shot type of deal.Also makes the steering fell better,better "return to center" feel then open.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:02 pm

TheBlueKJ wrote:

Understood. How hard were you wheeling to do that to a CV then?

Happened when trying to snake my way through the below.............

Don't let that pic decieve you,those 3 very large rocks are spaced so a IFS KJ can not go straight through.My LF wheel was wedged in a hole and coming out of the hole I heard a loud snap and Marty(RL) dive out of the way as the grease shot straight for him.Never did find any of those CV balls either.

TheBlueKJ · **Posted:** Sat Jul 20, 2013 9:23 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

TheBlueKJ wrote:

Understood. How hard were you wheeling to do that to a CV then?

Happened when trying to snake my way through the below.............

Don't let that pic decieve you,those 3 very large rocks are spaced so a IFS KJ can not go straight through.My LF wheel was wedged in a hole and coming out of the hole I heard a loud snap and Marty(RL) dive out of the way as the grease shot straight for him.Never did find any of those CV balls either.

Oh boy, that must've been fun :shock:

MrJ · **Joined:** Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:08 pm **Posts:** 35

so i can throw a DTT in the 30a without any issues? like i said, 3" on 30's. GA and SC trails are the hardest stuff i'll do. florida's pretty flat. i'm just worried about blowing up the front end. don't have $$ for RCV and steel diff yet.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Jul 20, 2013 10:53 am

DTT will work
Just have to know how to drive as well

fortx4 KJ · **Posted:** Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:38 am

What exactly are the do's and dont's with the dtt? One thing I've notice is that I have more wheel hop up front trying to get over things (which I put the brakes on real quick)

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:23 pm

fortx4 KJ wrote:

What exactly are the do's and dont's with the dtt? One thing I've notice is that I have more wheel hop up front trying to get over things (which I put the brakes on real quick)

Slow and easy and if in mud gradually apply the gas pedal.On the rocks always keep your foot on the brakes a little,this slows you down and makes the DTT work better,again slow and steady.

From learning how to wheel on the big rocks with a DTT up front I have to make a reason to engage my front ARB now.

front locker?

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