Trans Question

himynameisscott · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 8:19 am

Hello all

Quick question on my 2005 I have noticed a bit of delay in the trans. If I jump in and start it up, put her in gear and go theres a bit of delay once I leave P and go to R or D. This goes away after a bit of pressure on the gas pedal.

Also seems as though when its below 50 and the vehicle has sat for 8+ hours Im noticing a hard unsmooth shift from 2nd to 3rd.
No thunks, clanks, or bags. But its def not correct as far as the hesitation goes.

I purchased my CRD around 90k Now had 93k on it. No real history as far as any trans flushes or service.
Would dropping the pan and changing the filter and fluid correct the issue? As well as adding some Lucas Trans additive.

Or Is this a software related issue that a GDE would better remedy?

Thanks for reading and taking the time to help!
-Scott

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 8:48 am

The bit of a delay is probably the tranny fluid drain back issue. Try crankup; shift to neutral; hold idle at ca. 1,000-1,500 rpm for 10-15 seconds; drop idle shift into gear. If problem goes away it's drain back. Fluid and OEM or Wix filter change often solves the problem although some folks have had to install a new drain back valve or the new style pump. FYI the drain back is harmless, only annoying, if you follow the above procedure.

Much higher on your must do list is a timing belt job if it has not already been done.

Also read Sir Sam's NOOB guide

Glend · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:55 am

Sounds like the anti-drainback valve, a $2 part. Change it when you do the tranny service, it needs one. Filters (both) and new fluid (ATF4) and the anti-drainback valve.

himynameisscott · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 10:28 am

Easy enough!

would this be causing the 2-3 shift issues as well though?

and yes the TB is coming up soon, but its gotta wait till 100k due to financial constraints.
$1200 at my local stealership...

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:14 am

That's not a bad dealer price assuming they know what they are doing. However, depending on your location there may be other cheaper and perhaps better options.

Auberon · **Posted:** Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:22 am

New fluid may fix the shift issue too and the valve body filter may help with that.
Probably stating the obvious but:
The upper filter (spin-on) is in the cooling circuit as is the anti-drain back valve that has been discussed whilst the lower filter is protecting the valve body.
The fluid change for normal service isn't a huge amount of oil (in the scheme of what is actually in the tranny) but it seems to be enough to refresh the reserve of "oil magic".

This made me think that I would never notice this issue (the start up one) as I start her - always let her idle before she moves and hobble (badly gimped leg) to the gate to open it and often open the shed to let her out then hobble to the Jeep and idle out of the driveway after closing it all up. I would replace the valve at service as a matter of course but not before.

Good luck with it.
Could I ask you to let us know if the shift issue is resolved with the filter and oil change when you get around to it please.

himynameisscott · **Posted:** Tue Aug 06, 2013 6:07 am

In prepping for the t/b job i have been unable to find anyone other then dealer. One import shop that does vw tdi's locally quoted me at $2200 to do it. The other specialty shop in town wont even touch it, they have never worked on one and lack the special tools.

so id rather give it to the dealer and let them do it, since they have the tools and knowledge to get it done, plus the price is right.

As far as the trans issues I will advise once i get the fluid/filter change done.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Tue Aug 06, 2013 11:13 am

himynameisscott wrote:

...so id rather give it to the dealer and let them do it, since they have the tools and knowledge to get it done, plus the price is right.

I am very much afraid that you labor under a serious misapprehension. 90% plus of the dealers out there have neither the tools nor the experienced mechanics to do this job. It is possible that your dealer is the rare exception, but if I were you, I would ask to speak with the mechanic who is going to do the work and ask them how many they have done, and ask to see the miller special tools for the CRD. They should be able to show you- cam locking pins, flywheel locking pin, cam sprocket holding fixture, and should be able to tell you where the fuel pump alignment mark is, where the crankshaft alignment mark is, and how many revolutions apart the alignment of the camshaft, flywheel and fuel pump is. If they cannot show the tools or answer the questions, FIND SOMEONE ELSE.

You are likely to be very sorry if you don't screen your mechanic. You might also talk to Geordi about having him swing by and do it, or consider coming down to the DC area; several of us may do a TB party.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Aug 06, 2013 10:35 pm

well '42.150393-84.518802' is fairly close to GDE - they know these things inside and out
and can generally get parts cheaper than factory.

In fact just meeting and talking to Keith would be worth the drive.

Green Diesel Engineering
1032 Rig Street
Commerce Township, MI 48390

Office phone: (248) 977-9531
Office hours: Monday through Friday 8 am to 5 pm eastern standard time.

http://greendieselengineering.com/goPage.do?method=home

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