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 Post subject: Stalling and blowing fuses
PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 1:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:54 am
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I purchased an '06 liberty crd privately about two weeks ago. I took it in to the dealer to have the oil and fuel filter changed. It then died in traffic two days later as I was about to accelerate into an intersection. It would not turn over and the security system light in the dash was on. We took it to the dealer and discovered the datalink could not connect to read codes. They fixed the datalink issue by replacing a wire that had shorted out under the hood. It turned out the no start issue was because #14 fuse blew in the panel beside the instrument cluster. Ran great again. Took it on a road trip this weekend crossing the Rockies arrived ok, but it died again in traffic the next day. I replaced the fuse and on a whim looked up what that fuse did. Turns out it is for the fuel injection, tcm, and ECM. So I checked for air in the fuel line by the filter and there was lots. I drove away thinking problem solved. It stalled out again after a few hours driving. Fuse again and lots of air in the line. So now I am bleeding the air after about every hour of driving. No further stalls, but regular stops to bleed. Anyone heard of air in the line blow a fuse, presumably to save the injection pump from cavitating? That's the best explanation I could come up with. How do I find the source of the air? I am pretty sure the filter head is new, the heater plug is spliced in. Also when taking off from a stop of coming to a stop, sometime the transmission hesitates , and then 'snaps' with a hard shift. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated too. I want to cross the Rockies tomorrow. Regular bleeding stops and spare fuses just to be safe. Hope it goes well


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 Post subject: Re: Stalling and blowing fuses
PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 3:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:26 am
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Location: Hoedspruit , South Africa
LNSGP wrote:
I purchased an '06 liberty crd privately about two weeks ago. I took it in to the dealer to have the oil and fuel filter changed. It then died in traffic two days later as I was about to accelerate into an intersection. It would not turn over and the security system light in the dash was on. We took it to the dealer and discovered the datalink could not connect to read codes. They fixed the datalink issue by replacing a wire that had shorted out under the hood. It turned out the no start issue was because #14 fuse blew in the panel beside the instrument cluster. Ran great again. Took it on a road trip this weekend crossing the Rockies arrived ok, but it died again in traffic the next day. I replaced the fuse and on a whim looked up what that fuse did. Turns out it is for the fuel injection, tcm, and ECM. So I checked for air in the fuel line by the filter and there was lots. I drove away thinking problem solved. It stalled out again after a few hours driving. Fuse again and lots of air in the line. So now I am bleeding the air after about every hour of driving. No further stalls, but regular stops to bleed. Anyone heard of air in the line blow a fuse, presumably to save the injection pump from cavitating? That's the best explanation I could come up with. How do I find the source of the air? I am pretty sure the filter head is new, the heater plug is spliced in. Also when taking off from a stop of coming to a stop, sometime the transmission hesitates , and then 'snaps' with a hard shift. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated too. I want to cross the Rockies tomorrow. Regular bleeding stops and spare fuses just to be safe. Hope it goes well



Bear in mind that the 2006 CRD has a known problem in that the mounting bracket for the fuel head was slightly re-located.
This means that the large wire harness that goes between the fuel filter head bracket and the firewall has been known to fray through to ground in that area and cause all sorts of weird problems....escpecially blown fuses! :shock:


This may have nothing to do with your air-in-fuel problem but bear it in mind!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport


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 Post subject: Re: Stalling and blowing fuses
PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:51 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Does your filter head have a blue plug on the driver's side; see Sam's NOOB guide fuel head bleeding video? If not it's a 1st gen filter head and should be replaced; if so it's a 2n gen filter head and they are generally ok but can leak air if 1) the seal on the primer pump plunger goes bad; 2) the bleeder screw seat wears out; or 3) the filter is not correctly seated (extra inner gasket left in place when new filter installed, filter not fully tightened, or WIF sensor not fully seated). Other than that air can get in at the quick disconnect fittings back toward the fuel tank.

Common long term fixes - 1) in line lift pump installed in engine bay or on frame rail back toward tank; 2) replace quick disconnects with diesel grade fuel line; or 3) drop fuel tank and install intank fuel pump.

X2 on harness behind fuel filter head mounting bracket on the 06 model. Given that fuses apparently quit blowing after several fuel head bleeding episodes I'll bet you joggled that wiring enough to "undo" so to speak a short. Pull fuel head; pull mounting bracket; remove any wrapping on wiring bundle, carefully inspect each wire, fix any chaffing, reverse to reinstall. Be sure to use quality electrical tape not the cheap stuff (use 3M or some such)

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: Stalling and blowing fuses
PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 11:11 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 10:54 am
Posts: 2
Definitely blue heater plug. So I have the new filter head and the issues of primer seal and bleed screw should be less likely. But it could still be an issue of poor execution on the recent filter replacement. I just want to confirm that the air in line is an entirely different issue from the wire short blowing fuses. I thought the fuse might be an overload cut out for a cavitating injector pump. And that fixing the air issue would solve the fuse issue.


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