Another Heater Issue

65Corvair · **Posted:** Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:38 pm

Starting on Tuesday I have had some heating issues with my Jeep. Everything is operating fine except that if I am going up hill while driving or sometimes stopped my heat goes very cold. Temp gauge has been reading normal, through out the time with no heat. I have had no indications of overheating. I currently have a inline t-stat and the coolant level in the reservoir seems good. I have been bleeding the radiator vent every time the engine is cold, and there is not much air in there each time. Am I in a situation similar to what flman was in recently?
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=77168
What can I do to prove or disprove the head gasket is leaking?

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2014 1:01 am

OK:

1. Key is in the OFF position,
2. Release any pressure under the radiator cap and replace the cap.
3. Start engine and let it run for one minute.
4. Remove the radiator cap and check for the slightest amount on vapor / gas escaping.

IF you have pressure under the cap and the slightist bit of gas does escape, then you do have a HG problem.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2014 8:26 am

65 did you pull that cap cold this morning?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2014 11:07 am

I did pull the cap on the reservoir today, I got bubbles similar to flman, just a few slightly less. I did have the block heater plugged in, not sure if that makes a difference for this test.

Today after work I will remove the cap on a cold engine, note sound/bubbles that are released. Then let it run for a min and check if there is any pressure under the cap.

I have done the 30 second test before, it did release a bit of a hiss. But everytime I have done the 30 second test, it had the block heater plugged in.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2014 11:17 am

65Corvair wrote:

I did pull the cap on the reservoir today, I got bubbles similar to flman, just a few slightly less. I did have the block heater plugged in, not sure if that makes a difference for this test.

Today after work I will remove the cap on a cold engine, note sound/bubbles that are released. Then let it run for a min and check if there is any pressure under the cap.

I have done the 30 second test before, it did release a bit of a hiss. But everytime I have done the 30 second test, it had the block heater plugged in.

Both of my CRDs have no pressure cold, if any thing they have a little bit of vacuum. When mine had the HG leak it was like opening a can of seltzer with the engine cold.

BTW, I tried the inline tstat on my Jeep that had the blown HG. :roll:

Now I just pony up the money for the right one, and stop playing games. Actually both of them got a new OE tstat within the past 2 months.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2014 6:32 pm

I did both tests after work today.

I do get bubbles like flman's video and I do get some pressure let out after the engine runs for a minute.

Not looking good for my head gasket....

flman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:48 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I did both tests after work today.

I do get bubbles like flman's video and I do get some pressure let out after the engine runs for a minute.

Not looking good for my head gasket....

Yeah, pretty much a closed case, most likely you will get by without the new head? It seems a lot of members are seeing bad gaskets lately. Now all you need to do is find out how many holes are in your gasket if you need to have it up and running ASAP. Otherwise pull the valve cover and check for the holes, and order the parts as soon as you know?

BTW, I did not bother with the check for combustion gases in the cooling system.

Good Luck.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2014 8:32 pm

Phil,

You have a HG problem for sure.

Now the best thing you can do is minimize your driving and start planning the fix. Driving it will only aggravate the problem, it may warp or crack the head if it gets too hot.

Are you due for a timing belt? Combining the timing belt work with the head gasket replacement will help defer costs.

Where are you? There may be a member close by to you that can assist you.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:34 am

I plan to take care of alot of things while I have my jeep apart.
Timing System-When I did the 100k timing belt I used crown idlers and tensioner, and kept the water pump. (This was before I knew about this awesome site) I would like to update all the timing stuff, to be safe, and not have to worry till 250k.
Rockers-My jeep went 110k before it got a GDE tune, I will inspect and replace all rockers if they look bad.
Head Gasket-Might use ARP studs, need to research more.
ERG system removal-I plan to remove some or all of this while its apart, to be decided yet.
EGT and Boost gauges-Why not, no worry of metal chips gong places when its all apart.
Clean the Intake-'nuff said
Install OME springs and shocks-Already have the parts, will be taking advantage of the down time.
Probably a few other small things.

I live right where Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa meet. I have a good friend that has a warm garage for me to work in.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Jan 25, 2014 4:22 am

OK, then you're on your way.

I wish you luck.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Jan 25, 2014 8:27 am

Another thing to note on a cold engine, if you squeeze the upper rad hose, and it is stiff it is a good sign the system is being compressed with combustion gas.

car0430a · **Posted:** Mon Jan 27, 2014 2:21 pm

So around a week ago I read this post, thinking to myself I think I've been pretty lucky no major problems thus far. Yesterday when I fire up my rig I hear the dummy chime go off. It showed low on coolant great I'm thinking. So I shut it off open the cap lots of pressure right away. So the engine was cold, besides being plugged in for a few hours. I fill it up start it let it run for the minute, shut it off check for pressure which there was none after a min? But with more reading I think I may be joining many other CRDers and checking, tightening the current head bolts or replacing with studs hopefully not needed to tear completely down my timing belt etc I did that around 45k ago. Tonight when I get home I'll remember to check the upper radiator hose to see if there is pressure on a cold engine. And by cold engine I mean like -10f it's been cold here in WI.

flman · **Posted:** Mon Jan 27, 2014 2:47 pm

car0430a wrote:

So around a week ago I read this post, thinking to myself I think I've been pretty lucky no major problems thus far. Yesterday when I fire up my rig I hear the dummy chime go off. It showed low on coolant great I'm thinking. So I shut it off open the cap lots of pressure right away. So the engine was cold, besides being plugged in for a few hours. I fill it up start it let it run for the minute, shut it off check for pressure which there was none after a min? But with more reading I think I may be joining many other CRDers and checking, tightening the current head bolts or replacing with studs hopefully not needed to tear completely down my timing belt etc I did that around 45k ago. Tonight when I get home I'll remember to check the upper radiator hose to see if there is pressure on a cold engine. And by cold engine I mean like -10f it's been cold here in WI.

Also see if the secondary overflow is full and pushing out the weephole by the firewall.

Fluid on the header pipe and the frame below the recovery bottle is also a good sign, of a bad sign. :banghead:

BTW, I did not have any loose head bolts, I wish you luck with a partial tear down.

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