papaindigo wrote:
Not torque converter. Do not drive until you a) check oil level and b) pull air box to turbo hose and check turbo fan for play (should be slight fore/aft and virtually no side to side) and while that hose if off check for a crack on the bottom just in front of the turbo. It's possible the turbo is fried, which could take out the engine due to oil loss. If oil level and turbo fan are ok then pull both CAC hoses and inspect bottom sides for leaks, cracks or soggy with oil, replace with Samco's if need be. If ok do the boost pressure solenoid bypass test (
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348(, if power comes back replace solenoid. If that's not it check for bad vacuum lines (
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240).
FYI when you put the air box to turbo hose back on be sure the upper end touches or nearly touches the MAF sensor before you tighten the clamp and don't godzilla the clamp lest you crush the air box outlet.
Ok so it finally got above freezing here and I could stand outside at the CRD for longer than a couple minutes. I checked the oil, and the level is still good. After i pulled the air box to turbo hose and checked for play, the fan spun freeling, and i did not feel any play side to side. I couldn't get a good enough grip to really check the fore/aft play, but it didn't seem like there was any. The bottom of the turbo had some oil residue on it, but it didn't seem really fresh and moist. Is this normal? I put it all back together and tried the bypass test, but it would not fire. My battery is on its last legs, so i put it on a charger for the night hoping it can be enough to get it to fire tomorrow. I know before i parked it, it would not start back up; could this be due to the solenoid being bad? I still have to check my boost hoses, but I will replace them and the battery as soon as the money is free as they appear to be OEM and the battery still have the DC sticker on it. Thanks for the help!