strange noise

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon May 26, 2014 6:37 am

I have had a coolant boiling when shut off the kj the last year, I have changed the viscous fan with a HAYDEN 2905 and no more boiling issue , i have checked the boost hose , crankcase , ok , filter to turbo ...ok , the only one that have a little crack is the turbo to intercooler , but I have no leak

the coolant is ok and the oil too

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon May 26, 2014 12:09 pm

other video with ECU remapped , EGR and FCV off , is the TC or the flywheel ???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vtrjs8HlsUA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njCXjz2XRlU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16a5ta3W20U

the audio suck , but is the best I can do

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 12:11 am

Loose torque converter to flywheel bolts?? There is an inspection hole above the starter where you can check them without pulling the tranny.

On another note, that is one of the cleanest engine compartments I have seen.

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racertracer · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 3:36 am

My observation:

In video #1 I notice that the engine is idling too high, is that because you're giving it a little throttle?

I also hear what sounds like loose converter to flywheel bolts and a bad alternator decoupler.

In video #3 the idle sounds right and I still hear the loose converter to flywheel bolts and a bad alternator decoupler.

A bad decoupler will make your serpentine belt tensioner erratically jump.... Is your tensioner jumping erratically?

Tighten the converter to flywheel bolts, like ebbnflow said in his post and use locktite.

There is a video on here, about a member having the same problem with his flywheel bolts loosening up and when he performed the repair, he used a very strong magnet attached to the inside of the socket. He used a High strength, round, micro magnet that was epoxy glued to the inside of the socket so that the bolt stayed attached to the socket and didn't fall off while he worked in there.

Buona fortuna.

Auberon · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 6:36 am

Good sound in those last three recordings.
So forget my last suggestion it is also present when stationary.
I reckon it's worth a look under the heat shield at the exhaust side where the V-band clamp is - there is a tail on the exhaust manifold that runs around the back of the block to the poppit valve for the EGR at the back of the intake body. The poppit valve end is quite rigid but some of the designs used for the tubing are a weakness and the combination of expansion and contraction plus vibration break it at the band clamp.
I have heard a similar noise before where the neck at the V band clamp broke off at very close to the clamp.
You can't really see it as it is hidden well under there.

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 10:23 am

ebbnflow wrote:

Loose torque converter to flywheel bolts?? There is an inspection hole above the starter where you can check them without pulling the tranny.

On another note, that is one of the cleanest engine compartments I have seen.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks for "cleanest engine " , . I neglect the interior, but I'm a maniac for the engine and transmission

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 10:35 am

ebbnflow wrote:

Loose torque converter to flywheel bolts?? There is an inspection hole above the starter where you can check them without pulling the tranny.

On another note, that is one of the cleanest engine compartments I have seen.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks for "cleanest engine " , . I neglect the interior, but I'm a maniac for the engine and transmission

racertracer wrote:

My observation:

In video #1 I notice that the engine is idling too high, is that because you're giving it a little throttle?

I also hear what sounds like loose converter to flywheel bolts and a bad alternator decoupler.

In video #3 the idle sounds right and I still hear the loose converter to flywheel bolts and a bad alternator decoupler.

A bad decoupler will make your serpentine belt tensioner erratically jump.... Is your tensioner jumping erratically?

Tighten the converter to flywheel bolts, like ebbnflow said in his post and use locktite.

There is a video on here, about a member having the same problem with his flywheel bolts loosening up and when he performed the repair, he used a very strong magnet attached to the inside of the socket. He used a High strength, round, micro magnet that was epoxy glued to the inside of the socket so that the bolt stayed attached to the socket and didn't fall off while he worked in there.

Buona fortuna.

il cold morning and I have touched the air for a cold start that raise the rpm .
my tensioner do not jump erratically but moove , I try to make a video

can link me at the video you said ??? thanks

Auberon wrote:

Good sound in those last three recordings.
So forget my last suggestion it is also present when stationary.
I reckon it's worth a look under the heat shield at the exhaust side where the V-band clamp is - there is a tail on the exhaust manifold that runs around the back of the block to the poppit valve for the EGR at the back of the intake body. The poppit valve end is quite rigid but some of the designs used for the tubing are a weakness and the combination of expansion and contraction plus vibration break it at the band clamp.
I have heard a similar noise before where the neck at the V band clamp broke off at very close to the clamp.
You can't really see it as it is hidden well under there.

but you mean the egr pipe to the manifold? or pipe on the intake manifold, sorry ..

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 2:04 pm

another video

walk around with stock tune ....original ECU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5U8_vm ... e=youtu.be

inside

but you need an headphone , I run this video with a phone , my camera distort the sound in the cockpit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... aONsFm4QAg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... nrJy2pMNMY

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 2:20 pm

what I find is a terrible thing that seemed to be decreased, whereas when I shot the video, the sound echoed in my ears, I go crazy

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 5:42 pm

Your tensioner looks OK. It is barely moving at all. The sounds seems the loudest near the rear of engine / front of tranny. I still say you should check the torque converter bolts. The only other thing I noticed was the tear in your exhaust flex pipe sheathing. It doesn't look like it is leaking as I don't see any soot. What's up with that?

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thermorex · **Posted:** Tue May 27, 2014 8:26 pm

Still sounds like a muffler issue for me... I'd say just turn the radio louder, lol, it will get worse before it breaks.

P. S. Your engine looks like new, you clean it with some sort of aluminum cleaner gel?

Auberon · **Posted:** Wed May 28, 2014 5:59 am

This is very deceiving.
I closed eyes and listened with ear phones. Opening when most loud. It is most loud at 34 sec and goes away almost completely then comes back again @ 1:59 to 2:06. then stops again. I think we are narrowing it.
I did this in the video IMGP0765 with best sound quality.
Each time your camera is pointed at the overrunning clutch/alternator front the noise is VERY apparent. It is not a normal noise for this to make but they can sound this way. Can you do this with the engine cover (sound proofing) off and zero in like you did. This was really helpful. Do you have a mechanics stethoscope?

To best describe the tube I will look it up on parts fiche for the number. It is too hard to describe with words. After the last really excellent video I do not think it is that tube. I know this is jumping but this is isolating as the sound zeros in and quality improves.

Away from the overrunning clutch it sounds quite normal everywhere in this video at idle.

I do not understand the comments about the clean engine - Yours is how they are supposed to be kept are they not?
They should look like this. Your engine is well kept but well comparable with the photos from one of our members from South Africa who posted recently and they were just as clean.
Is this not normal? Mine is similarly clean.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed May 28, 2014 7:10 am

Yeti, I don't think will hurt to get a mechanical stethoscope and start listening various areas of the engine and accessories, especially considering what Auberon just said... Maybe you're lucky and can isolate the source of the noise.

About the engine, it looks like new, so I'd say its a good thing. Mine looks dirtier/stained, even if I wash it, I think it is the salt corrosion on the aluminum from our winters up north...

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed May 28, 2014 11:45 am

occasionally use a degreaser and wash with a pressure washer, for corrosion, use bitumen underbody spray before winter, protects for 6 months, I'm not in North USA, but I live in a small ski resort in the Alps and salt and cold I know what they do ,

@ Auberon , I do not have a mechanics stethoscope , but i try to do a video like you sad , with engine cover ,

@ thermorex and ebbnflow , I have not see leaking from exaust , as soon as I can I check the bolts in the TC , but today when I listen the noise in cockpit , the noise seem increase after I have add an additive for clean the injector , seem detonation and perhaps I have one or more injector nailed or semi stuck , I hate that i can't do a video with no disturb in the cockpit i hear a knock around 1600-2000 rpm and sometime change the range and intensity , i hope is not a rocker arm :banghead:

thanks a lot

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 28, 2014 3:51 pm

Simple way to test all the belt pulleys, simply remove the serpentine belt and start the engine for a few minutes and see if the noise goes away. I did this to mine when I diagnosed the belt tensioner pulley was bad... :idea:

Yeti · **Posted:** Thu May 29, 2014 9:51 am

already done and the noise persist

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu May 29, 2014 10:01 am

Yeti wrote:

occasionally use a degreaser and wash with a pressure washer, for corrosion, use bitumen underbody spray before winter, protects for 6 months, I'm not in North USA, but I live in a small ski resort in the Alps and salt and cold I know what they do ,

@ Auberon , I do not have a mechanics stethoscope , but i try to do a video like you sad , with engine cover ,

@ thermorex and ebbnflow , I have not see leaking from exaust , as soon as I can I check the bolts in the TC , but today when I listen the noise in cockpit , the noise seem increase after I have add an additive for clean the injector , seem detonation and perhaps I have one or more injector nailed or semi stuck , I hate that i can't do a video with no disturb in the cockpit i hear a knock around 1600-2000 rpm and sometime change the range and intensity , i hope is not a rocker arm :banghead:

thanks a lot

Regarding mechanical stethoscope, I do not think it is expensive, even for European prices, you don't ned to buy the top of the line tool, here a cheap one that works is around 10-15 bucks (high quality made in China, but it does the work...). But if you really don't want to buy one, you can use either a long screwdriver, either a long extension/rod, grab one end on one hand and squeeze it in your fist then open it a bit and put your ear close to the fist while you put the other end on various parts of the engine you'd like to listen, and that should provide you a relatively fair amount of noise amplification. I do not think you have rocker arm issue since oils are way better in Europe and egr soot is way less than here in US. You can do the MAP reading "trick" posted by GDE to see if rockers are ok, the new engine has I think 18.2 g when idling, and till 17g reading, I would say you should be ok.

Yeti · **Posted:** Thu May 29, 2014 1:23 pm

when idling I have a 16-17 g/s with egr off and fcv off at 1500 mt and 84 kpa in the intake when idling

this week end I'll try your suggestion :wink:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu May 29, 2014 4:03 pm

Yeti wrote:

already done and the noise persist

then that rules out all the pulleys turned by the serp. belt!

Auberon · **Posted:** Fri May 30, 2014 2:33 am

I looked this up as you did not solve it by running after removing the belt. I hope you find it soon for your sanity - it would drive me crazy also. There are a few different designs of tube used at various times in the production run - mine is rather different but 2007 only part for me even though it was built Sept 2006.

The tube I discussed in earlier post is part number 05170765AA. Description is for 2005 model which has the more common form. It is called "PIPE, EGR, Manifold to Valve". It is shown as item #9 in the exploded view of Intake Manifold Air Lines 2.8L [ENR]
Figure 2.8L-820
I hope that helps you sort this.

strange noise

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