Cracked block behind starter; looking for block only part #

R80gseric · **Joined:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:11 pm **Posts:** 14

Greetings, I've searched and read pages of great stuff, but can't find the part number for the block only. I have a shop that wants to rebuild, so looking for block (not long block) if possible. Thoughts? Thanks, Eric Tarbox

2005 CRD Liberty 2.8

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2014 4:33 pm

Best bet is probably a boneyard block, and put new sleeves / internals into it.

What happened? I'm sure there is a story here.

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

AIMs machine in Reno just charged me $130 per sleeve to install. If you buy the kit from IDParts, it includes piston, pin, c clips, sleeve and rings for $299. It does not include the shims for the sleeve, you have to purchase those separately.

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R80gseric · **Joined:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:11 pm **Posts:** 14

Thanks guys. Bought it off eBay from used car dealer for. $7k. Body and paint cherry, already had inline thermostat and ECO tune (unknown to them). RMS toast and rear boomerang bad, so replaced. Still leaked oil, so shop left it running without starter and finally found hairline behind starter.

Any ideas to tell warranty company? Their warranty states "block covered as result of failure of internally lubricated part." I wonder what to say...

Although I'm a noob (not new to diesel), I really appreciate this group.

R80gseric · **Joined:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:11 pm **Posts:** 14

Hairline crack in oil journal behind starter. Warranty company tried to angle toward a cracked water journal , but when coolant tested good, they relented. So, they bought a used long block and are paying my shop to remove/ reinstall.

I'll pay for TB, and rear main seal. ANYTHING else you may suggest I do while we are pulling and reinstalling block? Thanks all!

R80G/S Eric
05 CRD

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 11:03 pm

It wouldn't hurt to do a complete lower block overhaul, since you'll be taking its guts out anyways, if you're not on a tight budget. I'd also suggest rocker replacement and double check the cylinder head, water pump (if haven't done it yet). You may not need to do any of those, but if you plan keeping the jeep for a while, I think it's worth it.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 12:10 am

R80gseric wrote:

I'll pay for TB, and rear main seal. ANYTHING else you may suggest I do while we are pulling and reinstalling block? Thanks all!

R80G/S Eric
05 CRD

ARP head studs?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 7:56 am

Absolutely ARP and rockers! Will save you bundles soon.

DOC

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:47 pm

Torque converter and possibly new tranny pump.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:23 pm

Rear main seal leaks on KJ CRD are usually caused by excessive crankcase pressure due to CCV closing up at high RPM (design fault). Install EHM (elephant hose mod) and see if it slows down or stops. Make SURE EHM is in place BEFORE replacing seal so you do not blow out the new one. It is quite expensive to R&R the trans, if you going to replace the torque converter at some point, you want to do all this in one operation.

DOC

Cracked block behind starter; looking for block only part #

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