Cam bolts stuck in lower control arm bushings on the front e

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:39 pm

2006 Jeep Liberty CRD

I took the Jeep in for an alignment, It was way out. The front tires are cut bad on the insides in just 4,000 miles

The Cam bolts stuck in lower control arm bushings on the front of the Jeep. So the alignment can not be adjusted.

I am going to try to press them out. I am worried about damaging the area around where the cam makes contact. Like the rest of the Jeep it does not seem very heavy duty.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

What are the best replacement bushings to buy? Or the best replacement lower Control arm?

I have heard that some aftermarket LCA's do not have the spot that makes the cam bolts work. Just flat surface.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Sep 08, 2014 3:27 pm

Cut the bolts and drop the arms is the easiest way to do it. New bolts are only through the dealer and are or were 45-50 a bolt. The cam that adjusts your alignment is on the frame not the LCA. If everything is that rusted I'd just buy new LCAs and new bolts and swap them out.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon Sep 08, 2014 4:03 pm

tommudd wrote:

Cut the bolts and drop the arms is the easiest way to do it. New bolts are only through the dealer and are or were 45-50 a bolt. The cam that adjusts your alignment is on the frame not the LCA. If everything is that rusted I'd just buy new LCAs and new bolts and swap them out.

Thanks. I was kind of leaning that direction. What brand of LCA's & / or where is the best place to buy them?

Leeann · **Joined:** Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:19 pm **Posts:** 523

Mopar.

I bought new bolts from the dealer a month or 2 ago (iirc, $40 each) and LCAs from a member in a non-salt state. Haven't put them on yet, though.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon Sep 08, 2014 6:41 pm

Are Mevotech MS25153 Control Arms any good? Or should I stick with Mopar?

http://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-MS25153- ... uctDetails

Cam bolt 2 each 06507912aa, 06102252AA 2 NUT, Hex Flange Lock,

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/show ... ct=6687432

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__ ... 907AA.html

my cart right now

06505623AA
END PACKAGE, NUT, NUT AND WASHER, SOCKET PACKAGE, TUBE. Ball Joint To Knuckle, Drag Link, Inner, Mounting, Outer, Right or Left. Drag link inner, Hex Lock, Hex Locking, Tie Rod. M14x1.5, M14x1.50.
Stock Code: 06505623AA
$ 1.66

Update Quantity
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$3.32
06102252AA
NUT. Mounting, Upper. Hex Flange Lock. M16x2, M16x2.00.
Stock Code: 06102252AA
$ 3.14

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$12.56
06508907AA
BOLT AND WASHER, CROSSMEMBER, SCREW AND WASHER. Mounting. Front Suspension, Hex Head. M16x2.00x116.00.
Stock Code: 06508907AA
$ 11.44

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$45.76
52109987AH
ARM. Left. Lower Control. Front.
Stock Code: 52109987AH
$ 291.55

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$291.55
52109986AH
ARM. Right. Lower Control. Front.
Stock Code: 52109986AH
$ 302.26

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$302.26

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2014 1:34 pm

I used a c-clamp style ball joint press to push the bolts out. It worked great. You let the hex head of the bolt pass through the hole in the end of the c-clamp and push on the threaded end of the bolt. (I installed a nut backwards to give more for the clamp to push on) I have included a picture of the bolt halfway removed. It will remove the eccentric washer that is pressed on by the bolt head. The bolt pictured is the passenger side rear bolt.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:14 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I used a c-clamp style ball joint press to push the bolts out. It worked great. You let the hex head of the bolt pass through the hole in the end of the c-clamp and push on the threaded end of the bolt. (I installed a nut backwards to give more for the clamp to push on) I have included a picture of the bolt halfway removed. It will remove the eccentric washer that is pressed on by the bolt head. The bolt pictured is the passenger side rear bolt.

Thank you so much. I am glad I never got to the shed yet and started. That was the method I was going to try. But I thought the bolts were one piece, washer head bolts. I thought I was going to have to use one of the big hole for the washer head to pass through.
I thought I remembered seeing in one parts Fiche it being 2 pieces like your picture. But everywhere I have seen recently it only showed what looked to be a washer head bolt.

I even asked the dealerships I called this morning If it was 2 piece or a washer head bolt and they told me wrong.

I have a big press for my truck ball joints. If I can hold the thing up there to tighten it down. Might need to use a floor jack to hold it up.

My fail safe was to make a drill guide and drill the bolts out.

There will be lots of anti-seez or Kopr Kote involved in putting things back together

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:30 pm

I know you are replacing your lower control arm, but if you plan to reuse them I sugget some PB Blaster and a wire brush like this (http://www.theisens.com/store/p-11209-hobart-770211-fitting-brush-12.aspx) to get the bores in the bushings clean and rust free. I also used some antisieze compound on the shaft of the bolt to help prevent the problem form coming back.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:55 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I know you are replacing your lower control arm, but if you plan to reuse them I sugget some PB Blaster and a wire brush like this (http://www.theisens.com/store/p-11209-hobart-770211-fitting-brush-12.aspx) to get the bores in the bushings clean and rust free. I also used some antisieze compound on the shaft of the bolt to help prevent the problem form coming back.

I do not plan on replacing the LCA's unless I have to. Hopefully I can just install new bolts after I get them pressed out and cleaned. I use a lot of anti-seez everywhere.

I also have bore brushes for shotguns. One of those on a drill should help clean things up.

Thanks again

Leeann · **Joined:** Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:19 pm **Posts:** 523

The replacement bolts are one piece, which is probably why they told you wrong.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:41 am

Leeann wrote:

The replacement bolts are one piece, which is probably why they told you wrong.

I have one bolt to finish removing. I would like to get a little heat on the head and then quench it with Sea Foam. Only hold up this morning is I don't have anybody to squirt simple green on the bushing while I heat the bolt.

I was able to get my big Snap-on press on 2 of the bolts and my little ball joint press on the rear right front LCA.

I was not able to get the press on the rear left LCA bolt. But I was able to get that one freed up with generous amounts of Sea Foam over a few day period. I got it out til it hit the front differential mount, Kopr Koted it and shoved it back in.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:22 am

If you pull the rear bolt halfway out and completely remove the fornt bolt, the control arm will tilt (with the front down) and you can then remove the rear bolt by sliding it out the rest of the way.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:43 am

Thanks

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2014 10:30 am

I had this happen on my KK, I tried every manner of c-clamps and pullers and nothing worked. Ended up cutting the bolts off and pressing out the bushings. Buy some good sawsall blade and a whole lot of time to get the old bushings out. It was not fun.

viewtopic.php?f=88&t=79604

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2014 9:12 pm

I was able to get mine pressed out, Kopr Koted and reinstalled - I replaced 2 of them.

Now the JBA A arms I had installed appear to be a touch shorter than the OEM arms. They say they never had this problem before and I did not see any bad references to their company on the internet.

We had to adjust both lower cam bolts in as far as they would go. and we were still out 2 degrees.

They are sending me a new pair. I fear they may be the same as what I have. I wish the old set had been saved. Reminds me again why I should always keep my old parts. IIRC that parts were offered to me. I didn't see why I would want them at the time.

Does anybody have any OEM Upper front control arms to fit a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, that I could buy or get a measurement from?

I need a measurement from center of the pins to center of the ball joint.

Does anybody have any other suspicions as to what the problem might be?

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2014 10:18 pm

JBA 4.5 UCAs are not shorter are you sure they know how to align a Jeep KJ? Lots of shops don't so just asking

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:20 pm

tommudd wrote:

JBA 4.5 UCAs are not shorter are you sure they know how to align a Jeep KJ? Lots of shops don't so just asking

Sure seems like it isn't to hard. The lower cam bolts are adjusted all the way in and pulled to the inside cam rest to gain an extra 1/8" on the bottom.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

They have sold over 100 pair and nobody else has had a problem.

The cams were set about center with the original A arms with no tire wear. Now the cams are in as far as they will go and still out 2 degrees.

The alignment should have been close with just changing the A arms.

There doesn't seem to be much possible to mess up changing the uppers. If the 3 points are the same and the dimensions are the same. It should be about idiot proof.

I am wide open to suggestions.

JeepMorrison · **Joined:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:34 am **Posts:** 1236

Its not rocket science......set the camber and let caster fall where it lands. Then set toe......find another alignment shop

Sent with the power of children's screams!!!

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 23, 2014 7:27 pm

If the wheels won't move far enough to get in line another shop isn't going to do any good.

Sounded pretty simple when you said it. but if the wheels are wearing on the inside and they are already adjusted as far in as they can go what does rocket science tell you?

That they need to go in more. It isn't rocket science. If you pull off 2 arms that the vehicle has run fine with since day one and suddenly both sides are way out. That those arms were changed with no other adjustments - it points to me that what was changed is what is wrong.

Tell me rocket science, scientist.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 23, 2014 7:31 pm

jrsavoie wrote:

tommudd wrote:

JBA 4.5 UCAs are not shorter are you sure they know how to align a Jeep KJ? Lots of shops don't so just asking

Sure seems like it isn't to hard. The lower cam bolts are adjusted all the way in and pulled to the inside cam rest to gain an extra 1/8" on the bottom.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

They have sold over 100 pair and nobody else has had a problem.

The cams were set about center with the original A arms with no tire wear. Now the can are in as far as they will go and still out 2 degrees.

They alignment should have been close with just changing the A arms.

There doesn't seem to be much possible to mess up changing the uppers. If the 3 points are the same and the dimensions are the same. It should be about idiot proof.

I am wide open to suggestions.

You haven't answered a few important ?'s.

Lifted? Negative or positive camber? Correct JBA UCA's? There are 2 versions of the JBA UCA's,one for lifted and one for stock.

Cam bolts stuck in lower control arm bushings on the front e

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