biodiesel?

shadow63 · **Joined:** Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:04 am **Posts:** 208

Has anyone used biodiesel if so what number? Your thoughts on it?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Oct 04, 2014 7:10 am

The 05 at least came from the factory with 5 or so gallons of B-5 in the tank. For a while stoutdog had access to bio in Tempe, AZ and ran various levels up to at least B-30, don't know if he went higher, with no problems although he did not a drop in mpg, compared to dino, above B-10. There has been some chat that if you switch from dino to a significant amount of bio that it's good to carry a spare fuel filter as bio tends to dislodge fuel system crud and over load the filter until the system comes clean.

I think Greasey Bob is running straight veg oil, but uses dino at startup

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Oct 04, 2014 8:30 am

I use 1/4 tank of diesel the rest is 100% biodiesel from Tri-State Biodiesel in the Bronx, NY. every week.

50% diesel and 50% biodiesel in the winter.

I have logged tens of thousands of miles on the CRD using 100% Biodiesel and I have experienced no problems.

Our VM Diesels love it and run smoother with a noticeable reduced diesel chatter.

Not only that, it keeps the fuel lines, injectors and the high pressure pump clean.

If you never used Biodiesel before and your rig has a lot of miles on it, then expect to replace your fuel filter because the Biodiesel has been known to clean the fuel lines, fuel tank and all the other fuel related parts of all the residue and dirt left behind....... catching all it in the fuel filter between the first 25 to 350 miles of use.

After that, all is normal and if the fuel you use is free of impurities, then your filter will remain clean.

You wont regret it.

Racer

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:06 am

Racer isn't kidding, bio will go through the entire fuel system like liquid Brillo, scouring everything to a shine it hasn't seen since the factory.

I'm glad to hear that there is availability of B100 in the NY area, I wish it was more widespread across the country. There isn't any available in Georgia or Florida in the areas that I'm usually in.

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truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 04, 2014 12:00 pm

B99 Cold season, B20 Colder season. With B99 its as smooth as a purring kitten.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Sat Oct 04, 2014 2:24 pm

I brew my own. Usually run B50 until I'm going somewhere cold. No fuel related issues to date.

greiswig · **Posted:** Sat Oct 04, 2014 9:11 pm

I have probably run 90% of my 140k miles on B100 of my own making. I am very careful with fuel quality, and the only time I need to run regular diesel or a mix is when it gets particularly cold here. The injectors and cylinder sleeves both look very good (hone marks clear), and there was little carbon buildup on the valves or pistons when I pulled the head.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:34 am

greiswig wrote:

I have probably run 90% of my 140k miles on B100 of my own making. I am very careful with fuel quality, and the only time I need to run regular diesel or a mix is when it gets particularly cold here. The injectors and cylinder sleeves both look very good (hone marks clear), and there was little carbon buildup on the valves or pistons when I pulled the head.

Why'd you have to pull the head? Gasket leak?

How about the rockers? What did they look like?

greiswig · **Posted:** Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:44 am

Cylinder head was leaking coolant into #2. Tiny crack near the valve seats. Rockers all looked good enough to re-use, frankly; .002"-.003" radial play on rollers , little wear on the tips.

Neither of those should be affected by using biodiesel unless something is really wrong.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sun Oct 05, 2014 1:08 pm

I run home brewed b100 from May to October and b50 the rest of the year. I have done this for the last 4 years. The jeep loves it.

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

I run 20% in summer and 5% in winter.

MOSFET · **Joined:** Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:40 pm **Posts:** 295

weeks101 wrote:

I run 20% in summer and 5% in winter.

Same here. I have had no fuel related problems.

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mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 06, 2014 11:26 am

where I am bio is hard to get local. there was a place not far away but it burned down a few years ago and I'm not sure they rebuilt. I had a co-worker for a while that brewed it for his power smoke truck I would buy some from. On up to b100 mine ran great like others said just a small drop in economy but big boost in smoothness and quieter.

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

I do not use biodiesel but I have 100k + Waste Vegetable Oil miles. In my world it is to much time and money to make biodiesel. And even in around town driving we go over 100 miles of every gallon of diesel purchased.

SFHLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 06, 2014 1:46 pm

Mostly B100 here also, except when on longer trips. I have not been able to notice much of a difference in fuel economy between the two.

Also, with ULSD being mostly used in these engines, you are unlikely to get as much gunk cleaning out as you might have previously. But still a good idea to plan for a filter change after a few thousand miles, or at least have one on hand.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Oct 06, 2014 8:49 pm

Just curious, can anyone explain what the different numbers relate to? b100, b50, etc...

And, what are the numbers or ratings for home brewed biodiesel? :?:

thanks,

greiswig · **Posted:** Mon Oct 06, 2014 9:53 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Just curious, can anyone explain what the different numbers relate to? b100, b50, etc...

And, what are the numbers or ratings for home brewed biodiesel? :?:

thanks,

The number just refers to the percent biodiesel to petrodiesel. B100 is all biodiesel, 100%.

Numbers and ratings like cetane are the same measurement for petro and bio. Other numbers include things like measured alkalinity, oxidative stability, water, glyceride content (mono-, di- and tri-), and a lot of others too many to go into here.

Suffice it to say that it isn't easy to make in good quality. But my understanding is that people burning unconverted triglycerides (SVO or straight vegetable oil) are risking their pump and injectors, particularly if rail pressures exceed about 18kpsi depending on the feed stock. And that is just from polymerization, and doesn't even talk about relative viscosities; the latter is why SVO should be heated to be used in modern engines long term.

I digress. There's a lot of information on biodiesel on the net. Biodiesel.org is a decent place to start.

CIMARRON13 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:51 am

What kind of setups do you guys have to make your bio? I have been wanting to start making it for years, especially from used motor oil. With three diesels I have collected a plethora of oil in the last couple years.

SFHLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:54 am

CIMARRON13 wrote:

What kind of setups do you guys have to make your bio? I have been wanting to start making it for years, especially from used motor oil. With three diesels I have collected a plethora of oil in the last couple years.

Used motor oil will not make biodiesel. Biodiesel is made from plant or animal fats and oils (virgin or waste).

As far as used motor oil, I know it isn't recommended for VW, not sure about this engine. I thought it was just filtered down as much as possible, and sometimes mixed with D2 or kerosine.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 3:45 pm

WMO (or Waste Motor Oil) cannot be used to create BIO diesel, as it lacks the "bio" component of the recipe. I've heard it called "black diesel" and yes, it really is just hyper-filtered oil from the waste bunker at a parts store, and then thinned with D2. You probably don't want to try using K-1 (Kerosene) as that wouldn't have the lubricity of the D2, although it is possible that it could work and MIGHT be cheaper than the D2. But the big reason for me to avoid K1 is lack of energy content and low availability / high cost. Your area might have more K1 available at a pump.

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