Jeep just failed CO emissions test!

silence · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 6:53 pm

Don't know where to start. 2 years ago it passed by the skin of it's teeth. So a month ago I changed the fuel head manifold and installed a lift pump since I was getting a little air in the fuel. Here's the numbers.

60 MPH 33% Opacity
50 MPH 30% Opacity
40 MPH 39% Opacity

Horsepower is steady at 111-114 and torque looks good. It has a GDE tune and a recent oil change. As said I'm not sure where to start or if someone can recommend me a shop along the front range that is knowledgeable in these CRD's so I can get the registration renewed.

Thanks LOST.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 7:10 pm

How much fuel is in your tank? Is your EGR valve blocked off?
Get down as low as possible, fill it up with as high a mix of biodiesel as possible. Then blast around a bit with your foot to the floor to clean it out.

Now go back for a re-test. Consider the EGR block and an engine tune to remove the code, but the EGR is not your friend on these tests. Biodiesel will reduce the emissions quite considerably though. I'd also be curious if your engine has a fresh timing belt and is timed properly - these shouldn't be producing much at all in the way of smoke if they are running properly.

If you have some time, there was another member in Colorado that needed me to come out there and work on their CRD, I would be happy to combine the trip and work on yours too - that saves on the travel cost for both of you.

silence · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 7:18 pm

It was at half a tank. I don't know of any local biodiesel. I have the GDE ECO tune and the EGR is not blocked off. The timing belt was done in September and the Jeep currently has 95,000 miles on it. I have 60 days for a retest and I'm not sure how many times I can retest, but my registration expires at the end of the month. Thanks geordi.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 7:39 pm

silence wrote:

It was at half a tank. I don't know of any local biodiesel. I have the GDE ECO tune and the EGR is not blocked off. The timing belt was done in September and the Jeep currently has 95,000 miles on it. I have 60 days for a retest and I'm not sure how many times I can retest, but my registration expires at the end of the month. Thanks geordi.

95k miles, is it safe to assume that you haven't had the timing belt replaced? If not... THIS IS CRITICAL and you are way over the age of the belt. Mileage doesn't matter anymore.

They should allow you several retests, but lets look at getting your CRD cleaned up properly before you attempt that. I will message the other member and we can see about timing (heh) for the trip and see if it can work within your schedule and finances. The timing belt kit is $400. I would also suggest the intake elbow kit, but with Colorado being a testing state, that may not be the best option. A simple blocking plate may be a better option.

How are your boost hoses? Have they ever been replaced? What about the MAP sensor? Both these things affect the amount of power your engine can produce and the amount of boost that makes it into the cylinders. Without enough boost, your engine smokes while under power. Does it?

silence · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 8:25 pm

The timing belt was replaced in September. Boost hoses haven't been replaced but were fine at my last inspection. Guess I'll look at them again but it runs fine & I haven't noticed any loss of power & there are no codes.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 8:27 pm

Geordi, he said he had timing belt done in September.

I'd advise to look up biodiesel as Geordi said, fill up with b100 and go for another test. You'll pass with flying colors. Also hammer it a few times before the test, warm up the engine and oil, then accelerate to 3-3500 rpm few times, you don't need more than that to clean it up n

silence · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 10:09 pm

The only bio blend available locally is B20. Would that be enough?

tcoilburner · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 10:52 pm

You could also add a good fuel additive that boosts cetane and cleans the injectors to the b20 to help clean it up.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 11:38 pm

Have you cleaned your MAP?

silence · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 11:55 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Have you cleaned your MAP?

I haven't cleaned it lately, but it has been cleaned since I got the GDE tune. I'll take a look at that as well.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Thu May 07, 2015 11:56 pm

Undoubtedly, there are local people who make their own biodiesel. Ask at your local tractor supply, farm store, truck stop, Google local biodiesel.

DOC

geordi · **Posted:** Fri May 08, 2015 12:59 am

I'm glad that the timing belt is fresh. That is a good thing.

B20 will certainly help, a higher percentage would be better of course. With the boost hoses, they really need to be taken off to be fully inspected, they have a habit of blowing holes or soft spots in the bottom where they are hard to see or feel when installed. My general rule of thumb is - If you can wipe your hand on the hoses and it comes off wet and filthy... The hose has become porous and is weeping oil and boost. Time for a change. The factory hoses aren't really that great, obviously the Samcos are a fabulous replacement. You don't need the "chinese finger puzzle" crap on them, but if the factory hose is "growing hair" then that mesh has a habit of hiding the filth until you run your hands over it.

They shouldn't be slimy if they aren't leaking.

KC-CRD · **Joined:** Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:20 pm **Posts:** 47

Depending on where you are in Colorado, it might still be a little cold for higher concentrations of Biodiesel. B20 will make a noticeable difference in the way your CRD runs. I can tell the difference with B5. It should be smoother, quieter, and your emissions will change. But also keep in mind that if you haven't run anything through your fuel system to clean it, you may also need a new fuel filter in the near future.

Since emissions are your concern, here is a test done by Consumer Reports

Diver1430 · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 10:53 pm

I ran marine diesel in my 1995 3500 Cummings dodge for most of my ownership, sold as a body project car at 350,000 miles. (The buyer was my neighbors son, still running fine) I could not pass a Maryland emissions test using that fuel, so I ran it near empty, put in Exxon street fuel ran a half a tank, added 20% sulfite turpentine while topping off the tank plus a can of conditioner. Ran it at 85 mph for awhile on rt95, pulled into the emissions station when the line was short, shut down the engine as much as I could before coming into the booth. Passed, got to half tank and went back to MDO until the next test. You could probably do the same thing with kero or jp4. I had 15 to 20 % jp4 in my MDO for years. No issue. Same with both my crd s and jetta they rarley see street fuel. Live in a no emission test area now.

UFO · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2015 1:50 pm

That much soot will not not be "fixed" by running biodiesel. My CRD never put out more than 10% opacity running any mix of fuel from B0 to B100.

SFHLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2015 2:59 pm

You have a local coop in Denver that provides astm spec B100: http://denverbiodiesel.com/

I fueled up with them when picking up my CRD and driving across the country. I would not go to a homebrew if you can get from them, as you can never be sure about the quality. But, you'll probably be fine if the person is experienced.

B20 should also help a bit. But like UFO said, you should probably figure out what is up.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

9+ years of owning a KJ CRD in Colorado Springs and not once did I have to do an emissions test. Could be that it was titled as a gasser and not a diesel when purchased new.

I'd check your boost hoses for integrity (boost leak), run B20 and a double dose of powerservice, and drive the snot of the engine before you have emission rechecked. Do not drive it easy just prior to getting there.....hard driving on the highway does no good if you wimp foot the go pedal in city driving to get to the emissions station....also, avoid long idling which can allow soot to build up on the turbo and exhaust. Also, don't forget to check your airfilter.....we want as much airflow as possible.

Good luck and let us know what gets you to pass.

PS: Kerosene should burn cleaner than diesel if you can't get B20. If you use kerosene, make sure to add some 2 stroke oil in your tank for fuel lubricity after the emissions test.

flman · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:06 pm

I thought that some states have exempted our CRDs from the dyno test due to the traction control putting on the brakes and such?

LASSORUS · **Joined:** Sun Jul 19, 2015 2:50 pm **Posts:** 13

UFO wrote:

That much soot will not not be "fixed" by running biodiesel. My CRD never put out more than 10% opacity running any mix of fuel from B0 to B100.

I bought an '05 Liberty Limited 8 months ago and its still impressing me. Previous owner took good care of it, (changed timing belt, glow plugs, etc). The only prob is it smokes - opacity was 44 and failed. Cleaned MAP and it went down to 10. Vehicle smokes when accelerating. I want to kill EGR but my mech. says this will degrade performance because EGR is one of components that determine fuel mixture. How do you keep yours so clean? Also where are you getting these Bxxx fuel ratings? Is it on the pump?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:14 pm

LASSORUS wrote:

UFO wrote:

That much soot will not not be "fixed" by running biodiesel. My CRD never put out more than 10% opacity running any mix of fuel from B0 to B100.

I bought an '05 Liberty Limited 8 months ago and its still impressing me. Previous owner took good care of it, (changed timing belt, glow plugs, etc). The only prob is it smokes - opacity was 44 and failed. Cleaned MAP and it went down to 10. Vehicle smokes when accelerating. I want to kill EGR but my mech. says this will degrade performance because EGR is one of components that determine fuel mixture. How do you keep yours so clean? Also where are you getting these Bxxx fuel ratings? Is it on the pump?

Where do you live?
Did it pass with 10 opacity?
Smoke ou the exhaust is usually from too much fuel and not enough air. You might have a boost leak or a turbo boost problem.

Absolutely you should kill your EGR. It the best thing you can do for your CRD.

Jeep just failed CO emissions test!

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