What to do with 2005 CRD with broken timing belt

user113 · **Posted:** Fri May 08, 2015 9:49 pm

Not to pile on more headache and cost, but this is also a good time to see if your fan clutch is still working, or not. If it's the original one, my money is on not. I suggest that only because you're in Texas. If you replace it, the Hayden Heavy Duty one seems to be the sweet ticket. You might also want to grab a plastic fan off a 3.7L (used, of course).

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Sat May 09, 2015 9:12 pm

You are so right about the elbow intake bolts. Mine have been out before apparently and the head of a couple were almost stripped.

I think I'll go the conservative route and get the GDE tune for now.

I was just about ready to button her back up when I discovered, by reading the ARP stud thread, that I should NOT have lubed the stud threads that go into the block. Mother's Day will be spent cleaning and re-torquing the studs.

Any tips on dropping the intake back in place. I have the guide bolts in but I don't seem to have enough clearance to get the intake over them. Does one have to move/remove the transmission dip stick??

Seems like the never ending story. The neighbors are starting to talk.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon May 11, 2015 1:12 pm

If daughter plans to keep the jeep for a while, then definitely get the weeks kits. My own opinion of course, just wanted to highlight that I find them very useful. Sooner or later you'll have to change the glow plugs and will have issues. Also, this completely takes the egr out from ever spitting smoke in the engine. As a dad that may work at the crd in the furure, I'd get it myself with my own money, lol, it will ease your future work a lot.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon May 11, 2015 6:30 pm

That is why I suggest the elbow kit to everyone who pulls the top off - it makes the reassembly suck a LOT less. Like to the tune of about 90 minutes of wiggling and fighting and cussing at the design. The person who designed that area was CLEARLY not a mechanic - and it is obvious that they buried the EGR where they did for one primary reason: Keep people from screwing with it!

Trust a guy that has put on more than a few of these kits - trying to do it the hard way will just annoy you to no end.

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 5:34 pm

I was so looking forward to reinstalling intake elbow. Fuel separator and wiring kit arrived today so getting closer to having all parts in hand.

With weeks 1 & 2 I will be removing the EGR etc. Has anyone in Texas/Houston any experience with state inspections after modifications? The Sasquatch site mentions CEL "without proper ECU programming". So throw in a GDE tune also I assume? My wife is going to shoot me. Less shopping money.

Should have taken geordi up on his offer last Thanksgiving. It's been fun but like all amateurs I'll do better next time (in 5 years or so).

geordi · **Posted:** Wed May 13, 2015 11:52 am

The Yeti tunes also offer the option to eliminate the EGR idiot code. I don't know how they are for performance changes, but if the code is the main problem, you can't beat the price. Check the tech section for that thread.

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Thu May 14, 2015 10:46 am

Thanks geordi. I'll see if I can fit the Weeks 1,2 plus tune into the budget. Now, if it ever stops raining I can get back to putting her back together.

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Sun May 17, 2015 8:26 pm

So I've got the intake on. Parnoid about knocking off the rockers so I do it about 5 times until I'm convinced its ok. Then I read a post or two about broken rocker debris. Getting parnoid again so I take inventory and all rockers accounted for. Matter of fact I have an extra cylindrical piece of metal about a 1/2 long. Looks a lot like the front guide pin that helps keep the gasket in place. Sure enough I root through my pics and no front pin. So my question is should I pull the intake and put in the pin? At this point I've just installed the inner TB cover so its not a lot of work relatively speaking. Just another chapter in a never ending story.

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Sun May 17, 2015 10:33 pm

I think I've answered my own question. Might as well do it right.

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 10:37 am

MFRYTX wrote:

I think I've answered my own question. Might as well do it right.

My Pop mentioned a phrase to me long ago that I keep in mind. He's an old parts man/mechanic.

"Why is it that there is never enough time to do it in the first place, but that is always time to do it right the second time around?"

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 11:23 am

MFRYTX wrote:

So I've got the intake on. Parnoid about knocking off the rockers so I do it about 5 times until I'm convinced its ok. Then I read a post or two about broken rocker debris. Getting parnoid again so I take inventory and all rockers accounted for. Matter of fact I have an extra cylindrical piece of metal about a 1/2 long. Looks a lot like the front guide pin that helps keep the gasket in place. Sure enough I root through my pics and no front pin. So my question is should I pull the intake and put in the pin? At this point I've just installed the inner TB cover so its not a lot of work relatively speaking. Just another chapter in a never ending story.

I didn't even know there was an alignment pin for the intake manifold until I had everything back together. After I confirmed that the engine started and ran I did an oil change and the pin came out with the drain plug.
BTW, the engine ran great without it.

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 11:16 am

flash7210 wrote:

I didn't even know there was an alignment pin for the intake manifold until I had everything back together. After I confirmed that the engine started and ran I did an oil change and the pin came out with the drain plug.
BTW, the engine ran great without it.

So I pulled the intake off, set the pin, put the intake back on, set the timing, hand cranked a few cycles, no stops or funny sounds. Then I got a wild hair to re-torque the cam gears. Bad move, slipped, almost sheared intake locking pin, messed up treads some. I tried to hand crank and low and behold she stopped. So timing belt take 2. All re-timed and hand cranked a few cycles, no stops or funny sounds.

So my question is should I check the torque on the cam gears or just plow ahead??

geordi · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 11:20 am

NO.

80 lbs is what they get, and they will be fine with that. Re-tension the tensioner if it has moved so that the gap between the two towers is over the wire - I usually leave it with the left-most tower just to the right side of the spring wire. This gives a little more tolerance for belt stretch before anything would loosen. What you don't want with a fresh belt is the right tower to be over or to the left of the wire - that is too loose.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2015 12:29 am

geordi wrote:

NO.

80 lbs is what they get, and they will be fine with that. Re-tension the tensioner if it has moved so that the gap between the two towers is over the wire - I usually leave it with the left-most tower just to the right side of the spring wire. This gives a little more tolerance for belt stretch before anything would loosen. What you don't want with a fresh belt is the right tower to be over or to the left of the wire - that is too loose.

That's the lower end (or right side) of the left tower just covering over the spring wire slightly? Like what the manual shows, but slightly tighter?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2015 1:30 am

Not quite, a bit more than that. Let me see if this bulletin board code thing will do what I want it to do, and I will illustrate.

Code:

\\\                  <--This is the spring wire
 \\\********     <--This is the solid aluminum barrier that the spring presses against.
  \\\88     88   <--This is the top of the "two towers" that is just to the right of the wire. 
   \\\88___88   <--Notice how the "window" is open? Clear? The wire is to the LEFT of the entire tower, but only just a bit.
    \\\888888
     \\888888
       \888888
88888888888888888

If the wire is behind the left tower and the window is still open, that is OK too. I just usually leave it as I described, just a bit tighter. The spring is self-adjusting anyway, and I want the "stretched" belt to have that window or the tower still covering the wire in 100k miles. I've seen it MUCH worse.

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Sun May 24, 2015 4:39 pm

So one thing keeps me up at night. I quizzed my daughter about how the jeep was running before it quit. She said not so good but no details. Right after it quit I found it 2+ quarts low on oil which bothers me since I had changed the oil a couple weeks before. The broken TB had a couple teeth missing either side of the break so my guess is the jeep was running for a period of time "out of time". About 1/2 the rockers were also broken.

So my question is "where did the oil go?"

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2015 12:50 pm

Wiring up new fuel head/filter this morning and note old wires are about 14 gauge while the two sets in kit are 10 (green) and 16 (purple) - I may not have the sizes exactly right but the old wire copper appear to be in between wire in kit. Should I go up a size or down a size?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2015 1:22 pm

Use one of each color from the 2 new sets of wires matching as close as possible in size to each of the original wire; once you figure out the match insert the new wires thru the new plug on the appropriate side of the plug and clamp in place with the blue clip; splice the wires together (I used marine grade butt connectors with heat shrink tubing.

MFRYTX · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2015 4:17 pm

Thanks. The obvoius solution eluded me. Is it overkill to solder them?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2015 4:47 pm

You can but be sure to use rosin core solder. I just had the marine grade connectors handy and they were easier to use than solder. In fact some folks argue just twist the bare wires together and seal inside heat shrink tubing but I'm not willing to go that simple.

What to do with 2005 CRD with broken timing belt

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