It's coming up to my next service. at the last couple oil changes I've been noticing my oil pan drain bolt slipping right when you go to snug it down. It'll thread in fine, but when you want to get it tight so it'll seal, it slips. And sure enough Im getting little spots of oil on the concrete after it sits overnight. Had to add half a quart at around 3,000 miles.

So whatever I do, Im going to end up with a fumoto valve in it. Do I heli coil it, or drill tap it bigger? My plan was to drill and tap, aluminum doesn't chip or turn to powder like cast steel does, so I wouldn't really be worried about it. If I go this route I'll need to know what size to go to, as I don't know what size the factory bolt is. I want to do it at the next oil change so I'm down the least amount of time.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

ok no problem , don't drill it just get tap m18x 1.5 mm tap will turn easily , i install femco drain plug 10 - 18150-06 got it from big truck dealer (freight liner)

Thanks, I looked it up on fumoto's website and the m18x1.5 is f-104, I got the version with a nipple to make things less messy.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

That's what I had to do to mine. Just had to take it really slow tapping the aluminum. Five years later and the pan is still dry underneath. Good luck with yours.


Sent while mobile, but not while behind the wheel.

An alternative is to search my posts for a "spark plug repair kit" and use the solid collar repair that I did. Worked great.

Edit: Here ya go:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66245&p=728122#p728122

And for pictures of what the threaded collar looks like (it is the part with the little diamond-shaped threads):

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=800194#p800194

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
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Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Mine was partially stripped. I just coated Fumoto threads with ultra gray permatex. hand tightened, wait 30 minutes for gasket to form and torque it to spec. I just did that a week ago. No leak so far. I will keep any eye for leaks. I figured if it leaks again then I will re-thread or helicoil.

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'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover