I knew the battery was charged good, been on a slow charge for 2+ hours. But since you mentioned checking the battery connections i decided to go over everything. Pulled the cables off and cleaned them, pulled the ECM back out and made sure everything was tight, and no bent/broke pins. Checked all the plugs in the engine bay, cycled through all the gears, and decided to check the oil since i haven't had a chance to get it in the shop yet, been too busy working on other stuff. It was pretty dang low, so i added a half qt of some oil i had here. Hopped in and it fired right up! Took it out and it feels stronger with this "new" ECM!


Big thanks to everybody at GDE, really saved my booty on this one. I called multiple Chrysler dealers in the area and once i described my issue and what i needed done i would get a usual "Well you need to talk to a service tech about it, whats your contact info?" Over a week later, never got a call from the 4 dealers i talked to.

Now just to get my CRD in and serviced, and buy another timing belt kit. Pretty sure when i did our other CRD timing belt i told myself, my friends, family, and every living organism within 1000 miles that it would be the only one i ever do in my lifetime.... On the bright side i already have all the tools here to do it.

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Jimmy
2005 Liberty CRD, 120k miles, tuned, cat delete, Mishimoto hoses, EGR/FCV delete with Euro intake

1997 F-250 ECLB 7.3/E4OD/4wd, 215k miles: FFD 250/200%'s, Swamps IDM, built trans. Tuned by me

2001 F-450 crew cab, XLT ZF-6 7.3: 6637, shimmed 910's, in-tank mods, PHP tunes

Just a quick note on ECU swaps. Used a second hand ECU, key, and SKIM in my Jeep today. Disconnected the SKIM without removing it and plugged into the SKIM matching the ECU. Used a non-coded key in the ignition and positioned the matching key in the antennae ring. All well. Starts and runs. Security light goes out as normal. Cheaper than a re-program. Now to address the injector calibrations if problems arise. Unfortunately still have the P0105 error I am trying to eliminate. So really have not achieved anything except more knowledge that I really do not want to use. Bought the spare Jeep to rebuild the engine (valve through piston) and/or spare parts.
John

Heads up. The following info may be of interest.

I purchased and installed a towing harness specifically made to fit the 2005 Jeep Liberty. It was a plug and play, no thinking fiddling with wires just plug it in to the tail light connector and go.

Well during the tow i realized that the rear lights worked fine but the Key FOB didn't and the EVIC flashed. Needless to say I returned it soon after. I may have caught the problem just in time and before any other problems to the electrical system occurred.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I had actually thought about doing that. But it would've cost the same as going the route i did with sending the ECM to GDE to get the VIN changed.


I also think i found out what caused the issue in the first place. After i kept having issues getting it going after the ECM swap, it ran great for 2 days. Then all of a sudden i parked the Jeep in the shop for 10 minutes while i unloaded some stuff, went to start it back up and it was dead. Turned the key to crank and it would just click, and then throw the SKIM light. Threw the battery charger on it for a couple seconds and it fired right up. Drove it 45 minutes to the jobsite and again, sat for a little bit and it was dead. Alternator was putting out 14.3v(good), and battery was showing 12.7v with the key off. Put a new battery in it, and now its fine. So apparently the old battery had an internal short or something going on, and was just killing the electrical system.

As for the injector codes, i didn't give any to GDE and its fine. I don't see how it could make that much of a difference anyways.

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Jimmy
2005 Liberty CRD, 120k miles, tuned, cat delete, Mishimoto hoses, EGR/FCV delete with Euro intake

1997 F-250 ECLB 7.3/E4OD/4wd, 215k miles: FFD 250/200%'s, Swamps IDM, built trans. Tuned by me

2001 F-450 crew cab, XLT ZF-6 7.3: 6637, shimmed 910's, in-tank mods, PHP tunes

I like to understand how these systems work so I can try to work a way around the problems they throw up. Wastes a lot of time I know. Will call in the experts when I run out of options. A GDE tune will apparently fix my P0105 problem, but I can use the Jeep effectively by clearing the code when it appears. The gearbox codes are proving a little harder to predict and control to an acceptable level, so the Jeep is confined within a 50 km radius of home.
John