hi,
my kj takes long to start and cuts of while hard acceleration with 4-5 person in it.
i took it to the jeep service and told them to prime the pump and check if the problem is solved.
they told me once the car starts it doesnt matter if there is any air in filter. if it cuts of while running the filter head definitely needs to be replaced.
now they bypassed the fuel filter and told me to use it for a day or two. if the problems are solved then i should install a new filter head.
my kj now starts and runs great

but i am still confused about why they didnt want to prime the filter and told me it wont solve anything.
"air in the fuel filter doesnt metter after car starts. it only effect while cranking." is this true??

thanks for the help

caner

You can prime your own filter.
All you need is a 11mm wrench and a small container to catch the fuel coming out the bleeder.
Pump, open bleeder, close bleeder, pump again, repeat until no air bubbles come out.

Yes, air in fuel can make it hard to start. But if the fuel system is sucking in air while running it can also stall while under load.

So no, I dont understand what the dealership is saying. But most of those dealership techs dont understand the workings of the Liberty CRD.

If you dont already have the new fuel filter head installed, then yes, you should change it. Its the most common source of air in fuel problems.

Also, hard starting can be caused by bad glow plugs. But usually the check engine light will come on if that happens.

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U.S. Army Retired

Sigh, sounds to me like they have an upcoming boat payment and plan to have you make the payment after replacing the CP3 and 4 injectors by running with no fuel filter unless the put something inline when they did the bypass which is possible. With enough air in the filter head it will likely have problems running.

So do you have a 1s gen filter head see the bleeding video on Sir Sam's NOOB guide for the difference between 1s and 2 gen and how to bleed. Bleeding is easy as flash notes. If you have a 1s gen head it needs replacing see idparts for head and wiring pigtail.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

here is my fuel filter head.
http://s12.postimg.org/dorz771ct/IMG_20 ... 142939.jpg

btw my kj is europe model and no cel coming up

That's the 2004 or earlier filter which as far as I know is not known for leaking air although it's certainly possible. I do not know how to bleed that filter but I'm sure other members do. You might PM or email Billwill who I believe has an early model that should have that filter.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

yes it is 2004 model.
i know the procedure is nearly the same but i guess i am afraid of what if i couldnt start it up after.
even after bypassing the filter, car barely started in first few try. they need to spray some würth sprey into the air intake to start it (i dont know why did they do that but it worked)
but after first start it turns off and on in sec.

Well before replacing the filter head I'd look into a new filter. If it's old or even if it's not as 1 partial tank of bad fuel can clog a filter and starve the engine of fuel under load.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

sorry to not mention it before.
the fuel filter is new. i installed it about 1.5k miles ago

That's plenty of time to get clogged by bad fuel. If it's running ok with the filter bypassed I'd suspect the filter before I'd suspect the filter head.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

ok, tomorrow (it is 10pm here) first i will cancel the bypass and prime the filter head and try to start the car
lets say it didn't start.
is there a way decide which one is damaged without changing filter?, the filter or the head

thanks

update: today i canceled the bypass and try to prime the filter but when i pull the knob (air screw is closed) fuel also comes up with it.
i guess the filter head is broken.
btw jeep service asked for 230$ to change the filter and filter head. what do you think about the price?

Sounds like your filter head may be broken or an O ring around the plunger has failed. You do not get a CEL for fuel problems.
The early Export models like yours use a different Racor head to the one that the USA members are buying to replace their poor OEM ones.

The description on how to bleed these Racor Heads of ours is slightly wrong in the Service Manual...the correct procedure is:

Unscrew the white plastic plunger section on the top of the head...about an inch in diameter.
Lift this up and pump it up and down until firm pressure is felt.
Loosen the brass bolt on the RHS briefly to allow air and water to escape...this is omitted in the Service Manual.
Tighten this brass bolt and re-do the procedure until no air or water escapes and the plunger is firm.

You sure you tightened the new filter properly and did not omit the O ring or do not now have two O rings fitted on the filter?

Maybe you will need to fit an inline or intank pump although usually our type of Racor head would seem to work well by itself!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

when i unscrew the plunger i can pump it again and again. it doesnt get tight. it also splash little fuel around when i pull it while plumbing.

how can i check the o ring? is it easy to remove the filter?

Parker sells seal kits for the Racor heads. They should be able to set you up with the correct kit and installation instructions.

If the plunger cap has a seal the seepage may not be too much of an issue.

The filter should never have been bypassed especially since there is a real possibility that your problem has been caused by bad fuel. It may be worth letting the dealer complete the repair but make sure you get his diagnostic steps properly documented in case there is any collateral damage. This way he can't pass any blame off onto you.

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delaer told me new filter and filter head will be available on monday (shipped from fiat factory). i parked my car near dealer and i am not going to use it untill then.
buying seal kit for the head probably will cost me nearly the same with shipping since i am in istanbul.

what about the o ring, is it easy to inspect it?