Transmission Cooler Line Questions

graycenphil · **Posted:** Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:39 am

I noticed ATF on the floor under the Jeep, and it looks like the transmission line on the passenger side (return, I think) is leaking. It looks hard to get to, but not impossible.

Two questions: #1 Is there any trick to detaching the line? I see a nut next to the cooler (and next to the transmission) but I also see a white plastic fitting behind it. Is this some kind of quick connect, or do I just ignore it and loosen the nut, or what?

#2 Should I just buy a whole new line, or try to repair mine?

I'll try to attach a picture of the fitting, if I can.

Thanks.

edidt: Third question. I just looked at Rockauto and called Napa. Neither carries the part. Any suggestions on who sells it?

graycenphil · **Posted:** Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:46 am

Here's the picture:

xhizzous · **Posted:** Thu Jul 30, 2015 12:03 pm

http://www.moparpartsdiscounted.com/?i= ... ecallout=1

it might have the same type of connector that is on the trans side. it might have a wire E clip holding the line inside the fitting. Slide the plastic cover back on the line and pull the little Wire clip off, Be careful not to lose it. Its very easy to do (ask me how i know).

the link is the whole cooler line setup. $144 is a little steep though. I have one of my jeeps leaking going into the cooler too but mine is blown around the rubber compression fitting.

graycenphil · **Posted:** Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:15 pm

Thanks Xhizzous. That is pretty steep for the lines.

I'm leaning toward just taking it apart and patching it with good good transmission hose and clamps.

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Thu Jul 30, 2015 2:43 pm

graycenphil wrote:

Thanks Xhizzous. That is pretty steep for the lines.

I'm leaning toward just taking it apart and patching it with good good transmission hose and clamps.

That's what I ended up doing. I would check for weeping at those rubber sections by the cooler every oil change. I had rebuild one of the clutch packs in my transmission from loosing all the oil from a failed crimp.

graycenphil · **Posted:** Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:06 pm

Thanks SargeIndustries. I can't tell if the rubber is weeping now because it's all covered in oil, but once I replace the metal line and things dry ou, I'll check the crimps.

olypopper · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:36 am

I had the factory lines rebuilt by a local hydraulic hose shop. It cost me 100.00 for both lines and they installed arctic grade hose when they did it.

The factory lines are your only option for full replacement

Big Montana · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 7:04 am

My line was leaking after rubbing against the frame for the last 10 years. I had a local shop cut the line and replace with rubber hose. It's held up for over a year now. Everything rubs on this thing.

graycenphil · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 8:46 pm

Thanks guys. I appreciate the advice.

Arkie · **Posted:** Sun Aug 02, 2015 11:35 am

A piece of flex hose and a few hose clamps (be sure to use at least two per end) is an excellent TEMPORARY repair.

For a permanent fix use brass compression fittings. A small rub-through as Big M mentions can be fixed with a single union, as it takes up approximately 3/4" of overall length. A proper size section,bent to fit, of the proper size steel fuel/brake/etc tube with a compression union on each end can be used to replace longer defective sections..

This is also a great way to repair brake or fuel lines as well.

Bob

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

graycenphil · **Posted:** Mon Aug 03, 2015 8:23 am

I was kind of thinking this could be permanent. The rest of the line looks fine. I've got the hose on nice and tight and it's well protected against chafing. Do you think it won't hold up long term?

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Aug 03, 2015 3:17 pm

As big Montana said, cut the couplings and put a good quality hose, good Clamps and some plastic wire loom around the hose, just in case. I have had mine this way for some years and as long as you install them right and don't rub, they will last a very long time.

graycenphil · **Posted:** Mon Aug 03, 2015 9:32 pm

That's what I did. Two clamps on each end, and it's got a hose over it plus the plastic wire loom around that. If it fails, I don't think it will be because of chafing. I'll keep a close eye on it for a while.

I've also got an extra piece of hose, two clamps and a quart of ATF in the car just in case.

Thanks all.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:51 pm

Replacing transmission cooler line while I do everything else (had a leak at the cooler). The bottom line on transmission will not go back in. If I understand it correctly the fluted end needs to go far enough in to get the clip in behind it? Do the connection fittings on the transmission go bad, if so how hard to replace? Is there a special tool or technique I should be using?

Transmission Cooler Line Questions

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