The Saga of the Silver Stallion: CRD resurrection thread

Rixram · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:45 pm

Okay, I am receiving a silver CRD KJ Limited. It looks good (and clean), but is currently non-running and has 150K miles on it. Through the deal to acquire it was the description that the Jeep simply "stopped running". And there was a reference to a crankshaft position sensor.

I have started to slowly tear down the top half of the engine. I've only got a whopping 3 hours into this thing, but have made a few unpleasant discoveries so far.

The 7mm bolts holding the timing cover plate on still had the factory blue lock-tite on them. Now, MAYBE, the timing belt was done and the mechanic used the locktite on the bolts. Since the belt wasn't broken, and at 150K miles, it likely would have been, maybe the mechanic did use the same lock-tite.

When I disassembled the cooling system, the inter-cooler was found to be full of oil. Up to the level of the inlet/outlet hoses. It looks like the original owner kept the oil at the full mark, meaning there was a steady supply of oil burbling out the CCV valve.

The Turbo.
Ahh, yes. As I saw the intercooler full of oil, I naively thought, "well, with that much oil, the turbo should be well preserved. As it turns out, no.
When the turbo inlet was removed, a big glop of oil dropped out. It almost had the consistency of warmed grease. Once it drained some, I reached in to check the turbo, and how well it spins. And then, "Oh Boy". Turns out, no, not preserved much at all.Turbo barely spun, and that took more force than needed. Bad turbo, Bad!

I believe the excess pooled oil made it too thick for the turbo to turn, and the exhaust gases on the hot side fried the bearings inside, because it couldn't turn.

But I was encouraged to find the timing belt in one undamaged piece.

I will continue this as I make further finds...

Rixram · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:49 pm

Amazon: $624.95 & FREE Shipping
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K ... Y8J5EFZAEH

IDParts: $1,120.00 +shipping
http://www.idparts.com/garrett-turbocha ... -2823.html

I know IDParts does a lot for us, but that is one big delta in costs.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 12:23 am

I've never heard of that brand, and here's what the one review I read said.

"Looks just like the original but was not an install and go part. The vacuum actuator was about 3/8" longer than the "OEM" part was and I am still adjusting it to perform. I am still getting under-boost codes"

Anyone ever heard of a Stigan turbo? This could get a great find. About half price

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 12:26 am

I've never heard of that brand, and here's what the one review I read said.

"Looks just like the original but was not an install and go part. The vacuum actuator was about 3/8" longer than the "OEM" part was and I am still adjusting it to perform. I am still getting under-boost codes"

Anyone ever heard of a Stigan turbo? This could get a great find. About half price

US company out of CA. hmm

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 12:30 am

The locktite is no indication. I never use the locktite and its still present even after pulling factory bolts.

Someone could have done the belt at 100k, and then you pulled the cover at 150k and the OEM blue locktite would be there.

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:17 am

Sir Sam wrote:

The locktite is no indication. I never use the locktite and its still present even after pulling factory bolts.

Someone could have done the belt at 100k, and then you pulled the cover at 150k and the OEM blue locktite would be there.

The part that concerned me was how the Loctite was flaking off when I turned the bolts, as if it'd never been disturbed.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:54 am

Quote:

When I disassembled the cooling system, the inter-cooler was found to be full of oil. Up to the level of the inlet/outlet hoses. It looks like the original owner kept the oil at the full mark, meaning there was a steady supply of oil burbling out the CCV valve.

Thats a lot of oil! :shock:

How the heck is that even possible?
I'll bet there is a ton of crud built up inside the intake manifold.

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:39 am

flash7210 wrote:

Quote:

When I disassembled the cooling system, the inter-cooler was found to be full of oil. Up to the level of the inlet/outlet hoses. It looks like the original owner kept the oil at the full mark, meaning there was a steady supply of oil burbling out the CCV valve.

Thats a lot of oil! :shock:

How the heck is that even possible?
I'll bet there is a ton of crud built up inside the intake manifold.

Good point, and I bet I will find out you're right when I get to that part of disassembly.

I think I'd better swing by the biodiesel refinery and get 5-10 gallons of B100 to soak this thing in.

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:09 am

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtoca ... 30119.html

Well this looks promising.... Remanufactured turbo, exact fit. Or brandy new one for a little more.

$495 reman
$565 new

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:39 pm

I found an old registration certificate in the Jeep, and sent an email to the company that owned it. Getting some information regarding what was and wasn't done will be helpful. For example, if the water pump was replaced when/if they did the timing belt, then I will skip that replacement.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 4:38 pm

Imo, when it comes to the timing belt kit, considering that you have it already tore apart it would be stupid not to replace everything

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 5:07 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

Imo, when it comes to the timing belt kit, considering that you have it already tore apart it would be stupid not to replace everything

I fully intend to replace the belt and such, tobut I don't see a compelling reason to do thw water pump if it only has 50k on it...it' rated for 100k, and usually lasts 200k.

Since the timing belt is such a simple task, I'll likely do it again at 200k, anyway.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 5:36 pm

I have never seen one last 200k. Your already in there doing the work. What's another 5 bolts and swapping the guts out. For what the entire kit cost from Id parts it's a lot better than buying a new set of rockers when the pump seizes up

SFHLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:00 pm

Rixram wrote:

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtocart/2006_Jeep/Liberty/Turbocharger/40-30119.html

Well this looks promising.... Remanufactured turbo, exact fit. Or brandy new one for a little more.

$495 reman
$565 new

Cheapo turbos are likely manufactured in China. I wouldn't use them. I'd say find a new or reman Garrett and forget going cheap on the turbo.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:15 pm

People have had the factory water pumps fails under 150k. It seems like all of the bearings in the timing kit are random. I've felt tensioners that were in terrible shape at 150k, and then some that still felt smooth at 164k. I agree with the other guy, if you have it apart, I'd change it, especially since the aftermarket Graf pumps are better. Heck, they might be 150-200k worthy. I guess we'll know in another ten years.

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:27 pm

I'm sorry if I was not clear before. the vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. if they did the timing belt job with the water pump at 100k miles, then this water pump only has 50 k on it.

if that is the case, why change it? particularly since I will be doing the timing belt again at 200k, anyway. I like nice round numbers.

if they did not change it, then absolutely yes change it.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:35 pm

So can you say for sure that you absolutely know if it was done at 100k. That's all I'm getting at. At this point, you have tore down you might as well do it also

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:39 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

So can you say for sure that you absolutely know if it was done at 100k. That's all I'm getting at. At this point, you have tore down you might as well do it also

if you recall from above, I stated that I'm in the process of contacting the original owner who owned it at the 100k mark. when I get up or down on that then I can make the determination.
A turbo was not in the budget, so since I have to afford that, if I don't need to waste money on the pump, I'm not going to.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:28 pm

The intercooler being full of oil, and the turbo being shot would make me suspect the engine had been starved of oil.

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:10 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

The intercooler being full of oil, and the turbo being shot would make me suspect the engine had been starved of oil.

Okay, I just knocked off for the night. Today's report is not nearly as good as last night's.

And last night's wasn't good.

I started off tonight by draining the oil. There was no shortage of liquids in the oil reservoir. Notice I said liquids, and didn't specify oil.

First off, it looks like some dumbsh1t stripped the original threads on the oil pan, and there was some fuggered up T with a rubber grommet on it. Oh yeah, that's quality right there...

So when I cracked that fine piece of engineering, about 1 cup of coolant came out. That was disturbing, but not entirely unexpected. It was when the "oil" started flowing that I cringed.

It came out like black soft-serve ice cream. It has coolant emulsified into it. Delightful. Well, I knew there was a head gasket issue, and I now know sure as h3ll why the turbo failed. This crap, let's call it Satan's Chocolate, was everywhere. My concern is the crankshaft bearings.

Now, I've had boats with this issue before, and the bearings and metals were okay. And that was in an aluminum sterndrive. Note that was with salt water, too. I'm concerned for the crank bearings, but not to an "ohshit, ohshit, ohshit" level....yet. After all, they were still coated with oil...and coolant. And the coolant has corrosion inhibitors in it.

I did pull off the alt, the throttle body, and the lower EGR pipe (the latter of which had Satan's Chocolate all in it).

As I pulled that off, my eyes set upon the oil cooler. <insert expletive of your choice>

Now, this is where I need input:
Do we, we being CRDers, have an oil cooler delete or bypass?

And I've never read up on the Week's kits yet. Do they delete ALL the EGR lines and plug them, or only one? The first, in the sense I am describing them, is the line from the exhaust manifold to the block connection (driver's side), and the second being from the block connection to the throttle body. The second one being an essential part of the ability to coat the interior of the intake with H3LL's Spackle (oil and sooty coating that f**cks up the intake).

Oh, gee, look at that! There's an ad for the Sasquatch Weeks kits now!

Look at that, Weeks; your ads are getting my attention!

The Saga of the Silver Stallion: CRD resurrection thread

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