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Just to add to that last post. After you get the belt on, remove the pins, and rotate the engine exactly TWO full revolutions by hand. Then make sure the cam pins go in without more than a slight bump on the crank one way or the other. You should be able to insert the cam pins by hand (maybe gloved hand) as long as the threads are in good condition. When you are "bumping" the crank back and forth to find the exact spot, you're moving it like 1/100th of an inch or so, as little as possible once you have one of the pins in place. It will destroy things if you put much pressure on those pins. If you can't get both pinned easily, then you're probably off 1 tooth, or more.
The fuel pump marks are really hard to see with the radiator and intercooler in place, as is the crank witness mark. And, you have to play with the fuel pump a bit as it keeps moving out of alignment. You have to lead the belt a tooth or so, in one direction or the other to get it lined up with the belt installed. Kind of a pain, but not too bad. Can take a few tries.
_________________ 05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated Mech fan, VH & AC delete
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