True, but it makes sense to me that using 5v steel plugs with programming for 5v steel plugs would work better than using 7v steel plugs with programming for 7v ceramic plugs.

Also from another thread:

source: viewtopic.php?p=709831#p709831

Well the temps around here moderated a bit today. So I decided to get a start on the tear down. Got a couple hours worth, will try to get the tear down finished tomorrow.

First thing tomorrow I will be tackling the exhaust manifold & turbo. Wondering how you guys tackle this disassembly. Is it possible to pull the manifold with the turbo still attached? Or are there hidden bolts that require the turbo to be pulled from the manifold?

Or since I am pulling the head, should I just pull the turbo off the manifold and pull the head with the manifold still attached? Wondering if that might be easier than fighting with the rusted manifold to head nuts.

good to hear you can work on this project lucky its warm enough this weekend . i say split turbo from exhaust manifold you need to do it properly and slow down don't purchase any more parts yet until you get all taken apart and double checked everything . i know you want this thing back on the road a.s.a.p. but only way to get there is patience . because this engine is so expensive to rebuild there is no room for errors so every step is important . when i worked on mine my family thought i was going to put this motor in sail boat and go to cuba or some place lol

Well got it torn down. Looks like a valve broke in half. Let me post the pics and then pose some questions.

Here is the head (#3 cylinder). You can see where the loose valve was bouncing around and impacted the center right where the injector hole is.



Here is the #3 piston. The valve was wedged into the piston recess. That is fuel that looks so shiny.



Here is the piston after I popped the valve out.



Again, another shot of the piston.



And one more of the piston.



Head after I pulled the stem out.



And the culprit.


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So now the questions.

1) What in the world would cause one of the intake valves to just break in two? It was not the glow plugs as I suspected. They are in fact the new 5V Bosch and they were all intact. Must be the previous owner had them replaced and reflashed the ECM.

2) Clearly I need to have the head inspected to see if it is cracked. It does not look like it, but that needs to be verified. Clearly I need at least 1 new valve.

3) And perhaps most important question - what do you guys think about the piston? Clearly it took some impact with the valve bouncing around. Most notably the stem side of the valve hit the top of the piston at some point and left a divot. And you can also see one impact where it impacted the top of the piston, flat side down (note what appears to be an extra 'relief cut' right in the middle of the 2 that are supposed to be there). Wondering if I can take a burr to the top of the piston to smooth out the worst of the impact marks/edges. I believe I read that these pistons are hardened steel. Do you think it will be a must to replace the piston? And if so, am I faced with pulling the engine to replace a #3 piston? What do think the odds are that this event would have bent a rod or the crank itself?

Amazingly I don't see any scratches or witness marks on the cylinder wall/liner. Somehow the stem/sharp end of the valve never drug along the wall.

And maybe one more question. If i need to pull the engine, based on how much is already torn down, how much work is left? I have an overhead hoist so actually pulling it wont be an issue. Am i wrong or am i only looking at 2 engine mount bolts, bell housing and flexplate bolts?

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That plus a ground strap and some wiring down around the starter. And you have to figure out something to do with the AC compressor and PS pump.

If you want to replace that piston, the motor will have to come out.
Try to search eBay for a used one.
New Pistons are of a new design and will require four new Pistons and all new sets of rings.
VMspecialist in England is a good source for a good used cylinder head.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

How can i tell if one off ebay is the new or old design?

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Also, i saw on ID Parts that they only sell rods in sets of 4 because of balancing issues. They warn of engine failure if you replace a single rod and mess up the matched set. You guys buy this?

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wait till you pull block out on the floor yes you need cylinder head . one used piston set of piston rings hone brush to hone liner , your con rod may be ok you need to take them to a machine shop to inspect,

Chances are, that if it's from a 05 or 06 CRD, and here in the US, that it's the old style original piston.
Keep your rod and just swap pistons.

And connecting rod bolts cannot be re used. Use a new pair when re assembling the engine.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Question - and yes this is thinking a bit ahead. Can i completely reassemble the engine incl intake, front cover, turbo, etc... while its on the engine stand? I am hoping/assuming with the hood off i can drop the whole unit in fully assembled. Sure will be a whole lot easier that way.

PS- picked up a used piston and rod off ebay. Comes with the liner as well but dont think i will need it.

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Look in the service manual for the proper methods of assembling the piston and rod.

You can assemble the majority of the engine while on the stand.
Just be careful that you dont bang up a sensor or something when putting the engine back in.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I tried to install a fully assembled engine, and it's not worth it. I ended up taking the whole front end off (radiator, ac cooler...).

It's a terrible job no matter how you go about it. I have been avoiding the ones that have anything that will cause me to have to remove the engine. It just gets to be a crazy amount of labor.

I would replace the piston, match its weight to another one, and like someone mentioned, get the rod examined by an expert. Maybe put in all new rings if it has over 180k miles or so.
I'm sure you could reuse the piston for a while, but did the rod bearing get damaged, who knows? All that expense and it could blow up and eat the $4k engine...

That one crank bearing could have gotten damaged as well, I would probably replace it. But I wouldn't worry about the crank being bent unless the rod is bent severely.

If you're a gambling man (I'm not) then just clean up the piston and give it a try. But, the only hard part left is getting the transmission detached, I wouldn't risk having to remove and install the obnoxious turbo twice, and draining the transmission fluid, AC recharge, coolant...

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Did some reading in the Jeep SM this morning. The SM indicates it is possible to pull a piston/rod asm and replace it without pulling the engine. With the oil pan & balance shaft asm removed it is possible to get enough access to pull the rod cap and remove the piston/rod. Anyone tried this?

Yes, its possible.
By removing the oil pan and balance shaft you can get to rod bolts and pull the piston out.
But to that you will have to remove the cradle that holds the front diff and all the front suspension parts.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I too may have to get to the bottom end of my Inoperable CRD to see what the problem is and going from the bottom up sounds like a lot of work. I wish there was a simpler way.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I've pulled the front driveline and suspension out 3 times, and it's not bad, but I don't know if I'd like oil dripping in my face throughout the process, and you still have to support the engine from the topside. I guess you could get away with just supporting the front end since it's attached to the transmission.

If you redid your front end bushings at the same time (I promise they are toast, and it will handle better), this might be a good path. Probably not worth it if you don't replace a bunch of stuff in the front end, I'd even replace the hubs with the best quality available if they are old, as you might be back in there soon if you don't.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

ok guys looking at this broken valve , i say anybody going into rocker job or similar , if head wasn't removed before , just to be safe pull cylinder head anyways is over 100 miles , so that means sending it to machine shop valve removal valve steam seals and valve guide and springs , inspections , i think its beter to do it , or just say drive it and pray , what do you guys opinion on this ????