CRD Random Stalling-Self Starts When Moving

Billwill · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 3:30 am

If you do not resolve your issue by doing the injector test then try plugging in a voltmeter into your cigar lighter or front aux power point....monitor the voltage and see if it suddenly rises when it "pings".

I had about 6 wiring problems that would cause the voltage to rise to 17 volts, "ping" and engine cuts out.
This would normally happen when I did something such as turn on front wipers, air-con kicks in, glow plugs warming up etc.

Hope this is not the case as troubleshooting this is a big problem! :shock:

NorthwoodsMike · **Joined:** Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:00 pm **Posts:** 39

Does anyone have a link for the injector test?

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NorthwoodsMike · **Joined:** Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:00 pm **Posts:** 39

Also, I confirmed I have the newer fuel filter head. I was hoping I didn't thinking maybe that was the issue.

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flman · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 10:32 am

NorthwoodsMike wrote:

It would seem it was coincidence. The issue is back, and hasn't changed, despite the new fuel filter. I'm hoping the lift pump helps.

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I had my doubts that Sea Foam was going to fix anything. Can you keep a code reader connected and read live data, particularly rail pressure.

NorthwoodsMike · **Joined:** Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:00 pm **Posts:** 39

My only thought was moisture. This thing was parked for a year, so I thought perhaps there was a condensation buildup. Also, it's been very cold, so maybe it was a fuel viscosity issue. It's been better, but not fixed.

The new battery also doesn't seem to be good. 10-15 seconds of cranking and then the starter clicks. Not enough amps.

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NorthwoodsMike · **Joined:** Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:00 pm **Posts:** 39

Is there a reasonably priced code reader that can do that? Mine is pretty basic, but perhaps the usb type can?

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rankom · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 11:44 am

to check injector return flow , just remove small return line push in clips to release it .then you need 3mm clear line 4 meter long cut in in 4 pieces 1meter long put each end on top of injectors , anther ends in 4 clear cups or water bottles ,run engine about 2min compere fuel level in each cup . should be almost same , also remove alternator bracket look for chaffed wire harness , get torque pro to see rail pressure

mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

mine did this today at a slow coast(down hill to a stoplight) heard the bing, immediately looked down to see if i could spot something unusual on the indicators but i saw nothing. and mine actually did shut off. i turned the key off for a few seconds and cranked right back up. just in time for these tornado storms :banghead:

i have been getting the p0093 code a lot, only after a hard fuel(usually 3k rpm) this felt a little different. going to change fuel filter in a minute and see if it helps. its been right at a year now on the fuel filter so. we'll see. havent ran for any codes yet either. no check light came on. got a holley mighty fuel pump a while back for this thing. might be my weekend project. ill be watching the scangauge for voltage

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:32 pm

yes a in tank fuel pump will help because injectors don't like getting air pockets ask me how i know 450 $ each

NorthwoodsMike · **Joined:** Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:00 pm **Posts:** 39

Wouldn't any lift pump solve the air pocket issue? Ever since I installed the inline lift pump, the primer has been firm.

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mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

this one would be a "frame" mount. might put a sump on it just like i did the truck, with a nice thick skid plate.

so i changed the filter and here's how that went.

first the filter was way too loose. i have been noticing a lack of power. and i have the GDE Hot tune loaded right now. plus im injecting meth. after the filter change i felt like i had a lot of the power back.

while changing the filter i found this. obviously not good. cleaned them out with some CRC and blew with LP air. time will tell if this helped. but i need to look at the new heads. not sure if i have a new or old style. id rather not have either of them, buy a CAT head and call it done

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1H-t5 ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1H-t5 ... sp=sharing

i have lots of 3/8 and -6 hose. i might just put all soft lines on. my first thought was to just put this holley pump on as a second pump to pick up the slack. from what i remember reading in the service manual(that sucks Richard compared to the 4 inch physical book service manuals) the LP at the head is all there is. not sure how much vacuum the CP3 would pull. not too familiar with them. but this engine was designed before 05, so i got to think it was designed for LSD or pre ULSD and not ULSD. so i do add a few oz's of 2 stroker to each fillup for lube.

NorthwoodsMike · **Joined:** Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:00 pm **Posts:** 39

You have the old head. Standing in front of the car, facing the fuel head, the plug in the right is larger than the plug on the left, if you have the new fuel head. The old fuel head is the opposite.

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rankom · **Posted:** Wed Feb 24, 2016 9:25 pm

i think if the tank pump should come with this jeep ,,, but it didn't so its up to us to do it or not . my point is if it did come with this jeep we wouldn't be having this problem

mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

so the updated head just has heavier plugs for heavier wire...? or does it help with air/water too?

rankom · **Posted:** Thu Feb 25, 2016 7:59 pm

updated fuel head has a better heater element and wire plug , but it does not stop the air in fuel problem . i replaced it twice under warranty (DEALER ) only option for me was in tank LP , and i can see some damp, dirty, dusty residue around my updated FF head so that means its not a sealed unit 100% so its not much better than old one

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 25, 2016 10:33 pm

An in tank fuel pump provides 0% possibility of any air inleakage in the fuel system since the entire system is under positive pressure.
Any other in line or remote mounted fuel pump can suck air into the fuel system from a leak on the suction side of the pump or fittings... :wink:

mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

in tank pump can also allow air in the fuel system. any fitting on a liquid or air line can allow water, air, or particles in so. lets face it the big difference there is, do you want to have to remove your fuel tank every time you "think" there might be something wrong with fuel delivery, or the pump dies. what a headache. but i would have to say its probably much more reliable than having a crap draw straw.

apardo001 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 26, 2016 2:40 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

An in tank fuel pump provides 0% possibility of any air inleakage in the fuel system since the entire system is under positive pressure.

As WWDiesel said, when you have positive pressure there's no way air can get in, instead you would see a leak where previously you had an air inlet. In addition, the pump is located at tank bottom so the only way it would allow air in is if you run very low on diesel. :juggle:

mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

apardo001 wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

An in tank fuel pump provides 0% possibility of any air inleakage in the fuel system since the entire system is under positive pressure.

As WWDiesel said, when you have positive pressure there's no way air can get in, instead you would see a leak where previously you had an air inlet. In addition, the pump is located at tank bottom so the only way it would allow air in is if you run very low on diesel. :juggle:

so you're saying that a open fitting on the fuel head or a loose filter does not allow air in......

i guess i'll have to go with the updated filter head for now

tank sumps are usually located on the bottom of fuel tanks :wink:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 26, 2016 2:52 pm

mk38tech wrote:

apardo001 wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

An in tank fuel pump provides 0% possibility of any air inleakage in the fuel system since the entire system is under positive pressure.

As WWDiesel said, when you have positive pressure there's no way air can get in, instead you would see a leak where previously you had an air inlet. In addition, the pump is located at tank bottom so the only way it would allow air in is if you run very low on diesel. :juggle:

so you're saying that a open fitting on the fuel head or a loose filter does not allow air in......

That is correct. But only if you install an electric fuel pump back at the fuel tank.

With a lift pump installed back at the tank, any leaks in the fuel lines or fittings will be visible as fuel leaking out.
Which is much easier to see than air leaking in.

My electric lift pump is a facet type mounted up in the engine bay. Not optimal but it does work. I also had to fix some of the line connections back at the tank that were allowing air into the line.

CRD Random Stalling-Self Starts When Moving

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