Front Drive Shaft CV

johnny_posc · **Joined:** Sun May 30, 2010 8:43 pm **Posts:** 69

Alright everyone. It's been a while since I've been here but I'm looking for some input. I've been having a clang sound coming from my 2003 Libby 4wd for a while now. It doesn't matter if it is in gear, or if coasting on under load, its just an ever present clang. Like a tin can full of nickels being spun. In addition, when shifting into 4wd and moving, there is a terrible noise. 4wd works but loud clicks and seems bogged down.

First mechanic says the whole transfer case needs replaced. $1000. I climb under it and find that the Rear CV boot on the front drive shaft is gone. First mechanic never even mentioned it. Just says replace T-case. I've seen a couple other posts saying that the missing boot can cause a clanging sound.

Second mechanic, says the front driveshaft needs replaced.

I've found some driveshafts around $390
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product ... ck&jsn=410
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product ... ck&jsn=409
They vary in length from 16.5 to 19 inches and I'm not sure what I need or how to measure the one I have.

I have also found some kits to just redo the CV joint
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 13&jsn=413
Also found some videos on the process. I think I could do this myself but just looking for some opinions or experiences.

Has anyone else used these CV joint kits? Did it work out? Or should I just drop the money and put a whole new driveshaft?
Its got 130k miles on it now. Also, just out of curiosity, if I do decide to just try and change the CV joint, am i able to drive around without the front drive shaft in? I'm not sure how long the process would take me.

:JEEPIN:

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Fri Mar 11, 2016 3:34 pm

I replaced mine a couple weeks ago using this kit...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00450 ... ge_o00_s00

It was fairly easy. I would suggest loaning a puller from autozone if you do not have one.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Sat Mar 12, 2016 10:57 am

The front driveshaft rear CV can be very noisy if the boot has been gone for a while and road dirt has worn it down. It can sound like chains jingling and even create vibrations you can feel in the floor. Neither the transfer case nor the front driveshaft will need replacing, because in all likelihood it is just that CV making the noise. And the joint can be easily replaced for something like $45 with a kit from http://www.driveshaftparts.com (part number me807).

Here is a step by step how-to:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=56917

Yes, you can drive it without a front driveshaft. Just don't engage 4wd.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 12, 2016 11:54 am

See this thread with pictures and instructions on how to replace just the rear CV joint on the front driveshaft:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=77641&hilit

Detroit Axle and Driveshaft Parts both sale the complete joint replacement kit and are within a few dollars of each other on price:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Front-Drive-Shaft-CV-Joint-Complete-Repair-Kit-Rear-Position-4x4-4WD-/170991279637?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27cfdfde15
http://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=978

It is not a bad job and as others stated, you can safely remove the front driveshaft till repairs can be made and drive the vehicle with it removed just remember 4 wheel drive will not work.... :wink:

Tools required to change joint:
1. Metric allen wrench or socket to R & R bolts on both end of driveshaft
2. hammer & chisel or old screwdriver to use as a chisel to remove crimp on original joint end cap and pry it off
3. snap ring pliers to remove & replace lock ring on end of shaft
4. a bench mounted vise to hold axle is a big help if you got one....

EZLiberty · **Joined:** Sat Aug 08, 2009 9:46 pm **Posts:** 84

I just did mine last week, not too bad and it takes a little wiggling to get the DS IN/Out. To remove the front joint I did not use a hammer bc I don't want to be hammering the bearings in the front axle sideways. If You're a plumber HVAC or have a friend with a pipe wrench or large channel lock it makes quick work of getting it out.

Thanks to the good folks in this forum I was able to source the right parts and get a link that walked me through the hole process.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=84076

johnny_posc · **Joined:** Sun May 30, 2010 8:43 pm **Posts:** 69

Thanks for the information everyone. I'm going to go ahead and get the replacement on order. May try working on it this weekend, but also am going to do the front brakes so it all depends on time.

I really do appreciate the information. Looks like I've saved a ton of money.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 11:02 am

I was going to pull the drive shaft. When I got under there the replacement part looked good.

The rattle seems to be coming from the drive shaft.

The front and rear seem good. But there is a noticeable sound from the driveshaft. My wife could here it click about 8' away when I shook it.

I took the driveshaft off this morning and confirmed that the rattle was from the rear joint that I rebuilt. going to send for another rebuild kit. It should be under warranty.

I'll have to see how their warranty works out. Hopefully they just send another unit.

It does not make a noticeable noise When driving - but we are half deaf and don't need to turn up the radio to hide noise. Our conversations normally involve saying What? a lot

It was a vibration I could feel in the seat that made me check originally. I just reached under, grabbed the driveshaft and felt movement

I saw a little grease on the floor pan above the rear joint that I changed. I am guessing now that maybe that was a little excess, because the boot looks good and the joint seems good - But it wasn't - There was slop every direction in the joint once I got the driveshaft off.

It does not make a noticeable noise When driving - but we are half deaf and don't need to turn up the radio to hide noise. Our conversations normally involve saying What? a lot

It was a vibration I could feel in the seat that made me check originally. I just reached under, grabbed the driveshaft and felt movement

I saw a little grease on the floor pan above the rear joint that I changed. I am guessing now that maybe that was a little excess, because the boot looks good and the joint seems good

Thanks

JTLibertyUK · **Posted:** Tue Jun 14, 2016 9:57 am

I'm a bit late to the party, but...

Just replaced both joints/bearings/boots on my front driveshaft (2004 Liberty KJ CRD, 93k miles).
Like others in these forums, I enquired about the noise I was hearing and was pointed in the direction of the driveshaft by helpful forum folk! As was mentioned to me, it sounds like 'rattling chains' when the boot goes and the bearing dries out and dies.

My rear bearing was dry, rusty and one of the ball retaining rings had broken, creating the noise. The rubber boot had perished, letting the elements in.

I'm in the UK, so ordered a set of aftermarket replacement bearings from direvshaftparts.co.uk which are now on the Jeep and working perfectly. :JEEPIN:

Getting the driveshaft off was relatively painless, but needed some elbow grease. You need to remove the transfer box end first, then slide the shaft forward a bit to release it (there's an inch or two movement on the front bearing), then you can take the front end out. A bit of hammering/levering to the old bearings was in order, but as these were being replaced I wasn't worried about damage. Just be careful not to damage the shaft itself (although these seem relatively inexpensive)

I'd certainly make sure you have the following when you do this job:
- Adequate access under the vehicle (and a creeper trolley if possible!) - stick it on ramps or dig a garage pit!
- Various spanners/wrenches and sockets for the job, as the shaft doesn't turn when in situ, so access to some bolts can be limited,
- Make sure your bearing kit comes with new circlips (to retain the bearings on the shaft), as the old ones will inevitable distort,
- Also make sure your kit comes with the seal 'gaskets' for each side of the bearings, to keep the weather out,
- Have a decent CV Boot Clamp tool to properly secure the boots on to the shaft - this is what will keep the weather out!

My kit came with new bolts, boot clamps, boots, gaskets, circlips and packets of grease for the bearings. The front bearing grease looked like graphite (I assume because there's more movement), whilst the rear one looked like 'standard' grease. The only think it didn't come with was the little metal retainers that connect sets of two bolts together, so I re-used the old ones.

And finally - I was driving round for a month with no front driveshaft on, no problems! (but no four-wheel-drive...!).

Front Drive Shaft CV

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