Well, this seems to be my day for working on the KJ. I'd been smelling a fuel leak somewhere but it wasn't obvious wet anywhere, except maybe a bit on the #2 and 3 injectors.

Today while looking at other issue, I noticed a tablespoon or two of diesel collected by the #2 injector in the well the ribs make (at least I think its #2, I'm counting from the front). I felt the return line T at the top and it was in place but loose. That is you could pull the T up with no resistance out of the injector. I pushed it back in, but it still seems quite loose in there. The #3 injector return T is also loose, but not as bad as the #2. The lines themselves look new, but I think the problem is the seals between the plastic T's and the injectors.

So my question is, how are these return T's supposed to be held in to seal. They look like the plastic is molded for a small Oring to seal them (mine did not have any such Oring). Are they supposed to take an Oring and if so, anyone know the size? If not what does one do when the T isn't sealing, replace the T? Service the injector?

Thanks.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD

There should be a little metal clip holding them in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-6L-Duramax-In ... 92?vxp=mtr

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

Thanks Mike. That would explain why mine keep coming out. Time to put in an order...

If the plastic on the T is still good, do people replace the Oring, or just do the whole T?

_________________
2006 KJ CRD

Well, I've got a return kit on order, should be here next week.

Looks like the PO took out the clips or at least never put them back in.

Even without them, it had been running OK for several months, and only recently been smelling diesel fuel odor around it. Just tried running it today (to try and find the tranny fluid leak, other thread), and while we were idling it, 2 of the T's came out on their own. Amazing how fast the fuel can comes out of those with the return line T out. The wells around the injectors filled up in maybe 20 sec or less. I am wondering if my "tranny leak" may have in part been fuel running down from this leak.

BTW, as an emergency measure I bent some metal paper clips into some makeshift clips. They didn't quite fit (wire diam too big to go all the way in) but I could jam them in and wrap the rest around the return line to hold them in. Wouldn't want to drive for long that way, but as an emergency fix seemed to hold for a while.

Fun and games...

_________________
2006 KJ CRD

If I remember correctly, those tee's click into the injector. The metal clip is just a keeper. It might be worth pressing down on the loose ones to make them seat again.

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

Mike

I tried pushing them back in, and it works for a while, less and less as time goes on. Now, without some sort of retainer holding them in, they only stay dry for a couple of mins, and after 5-10 mins a few of them have actually popped up and leak pretty badly.

Perhaps its just the Orings are old. Anyone know the correct size Oring these need, if so I could get some and maybe get it running a bit before the kit comes.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD

I'd not much about with attempting a hodge-podge fix. If possible, try to wait to drive/run it until the proper parts show up. It'd really suck if you had a bodgered fix result in more damage or an engine fire.

_________________
"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

Well it took a while, but I got the return line kit. Appears to be the right one, everything looks right, plastic parts match up just fine with the old ones. But I am still confused.

The kit came with replacement metal clips. But for the life of me I cannot figure out how they are supposed to work. It became pretty obvious that they don't just slide in after the plastic fitting is in place as I would have thought. So as a last resort I looked at the service manual. I did not find anything specifically on how to replace the clips or the return lines, but in one of the flow test sections, they mention NOT to remove the clips, just push them in to release or insert the plastic part. OK, all well and good, but for me who never had them in there to begin with, hard to do that.

I tried putting the clip in without the plastic part there. Not an easy fit, could not get the clip all the way in without bending it quite a bit. So I figured time to stop and ask for help before I break something...

So a few questions for those that might have faced this before:

1. Which direction do the clips go in, from the electrical connector side or the opposite? Or does it matter?

2. Any tricks in getting these clips to go in? I can get them 1/2 way in or so but they won't go into the last slot in the injector top without some bending??? Is it OK to bend them? Some other trick used here?

I am beginning to think that I might be better off just getting new Orings (viton ones) and making up some sort of keepers.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD

It should roughly look like this


Either put the clip in, then press the plastic nipple into the top of the injector.
Or, press in the nipple, then slide in the clip.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Thanks Flash. Boy a pic is worth 1000 words!

For some reason I had been thinking the clips go INTO the slots, never thought that they could clip outside and just have the bend go thru. Pretty obvious once you see it.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD

Somehow I "misplaced" two of these return line clips. Our local stealership has to order them in, and sells them for $35.13 each.

The lowest price I've found for factory parts is Steve White Motors at $17.05 each. AS far as I can tell, these are pretty much the same as the new duramax ones. ($6.75) so there should be something available aftermarket, hopefully for a much lower price. Does anyone know if the duramax ones will fit?

Thanks

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

Yes duramax ones are the same. You can get the entire kit around $19 on eBay. That includes, clips, line and plastic fittings

_________________
2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Thank You

Set Ordered

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770