I replaced the alternator and pulley in '13. I did determine that the alt going bad was the likely cause of the pulley failure, due to how close those items failed.

As for the serp tensioner, it went ywo years after putting s brand spanking new alt on, so.....?

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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

It is very likely to either have mounted the tensioner wrong, either just bad luck. I also have the ID parts littens for about 30k and so far so good. If I'm not mistaken, isn't the recommended replacement 50k?

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I have 38K on mine at time of failure.

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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

I heard a squeak from under my hood and thought it was a belt but my mechanic friend said it sounded like a pully. It got worst and I found my belt is about to break, got a bad spot in it that is all frayed. Was going to replace it but am wondering now if the bad pully caused this. Is the tensioner the most common culprit? If I am going in to replace the belt I want to do anything else I can to make sure I don't have to do this again.

Sorry to bring back this old thread again.

Yes, I have had the timing belt done.

There are two idler pulleys along with the tensioner pulley! Any of them along with pulleys on all the driven items like the alternator, fan hub, AC, PS pump, and Viscous Heater can go bad and cause belt wear issues. Simple way to test is to remove the serpentine belt and spin each pulley by hand one at a time and feel & listen for any roughness, wobble, or hard to spin...they should all spin freely and make no noticeable noise, wobble, or have any looseness to them!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Got the belt off with no issues, then I found this,



Is it normal for the tensioner to be in contact with the pully below it when the belt is not on? If I flex the tensioner I can spin the pully below it, but when I dont have a wrench on it then it is in contact with it and I can barely move it. Not a great picture, not much room in there.

So what do you think?


That tensioner needs replaced.

It just seems a bit odd,

When I flex the tensioner it is not in contact with the other pully. As I have been driving the jeep it is a logical conclusion that it has not always been in contact and may have just done it when I removed the belt, It also stands to reason that the tight belt would pull the tensioner enough to clear the pully so it does not rub. I took the belt off and now it is in contact. When I put torque on the tensioner it spins freely.

I just find it odd that the bottom pully managed to grind into the tensioner bracket. Wouldn't that indicate a issue with the bottom pully or is it maybe that the tensioner bracket has come loose over the years.

The power steering pulley should not be touching the tensioner.
Remove the PS pulley and then remove and inspect the tensioner.

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U.S. Army Retired

One of the classic signs of a failed serp belt tensioner is leaning into the power steering pulley when tension is released. Combining that with the squeak I strongly suspect that your alternator decoupler pulley has failed which causes the serp belt tensioner to bounce somewhat violently which causes the tensioner and belt to fail. That said I'd check the "feel" of all the spinning things as noted by WWdiesel. Replace any that feel bad (NOTE it's easy to pop both idler pullers off and check for weeping grease in back but remember their bolts are reverse thread - clockwise to loosen). If I am right you will need a new serp belt tensioner AND alternator decoupler pulley (Litens 920834 is slightly but insignificantly smaller than stock and recommended by Litens) although some find it easier to just replace alternator especially if it has a lot of miles on it.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you so much for the advice. I plan on ordering the tensioner that was listed in an earlier post on amazon, I do have a lot of miles so as a precaution I will take your advice and put a new alternator on as well, may as well do it now.

Thanks again.

You do not need, unless it is not putting out the voltage, to replace the alternator.
Just the pulley on the front of the alternator.
And, of course, the serp belt tensioner

_________________
"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

HOLD ON THERE

Be sure you're not buying a Crown tensioner from Amazon. IDParts had to stop stocking them: "We no longer sell the Crown tensioner. Do to an abnormally high failure rate we no longer recommend the Crown-manufactured tensioner"
http://www.idparts.com/liberty-crd-serp ... -2826.html

I'd recommend only a genuine OE tensioner from IDParts or a Chrysler dealer. Only buy from Amazon or elsewhere if you're sure it's the real thing.

Ditto X infinity on no Crown parts.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

AMEN TO THAT! they shipped my parts recently and FAST!

Id love to buy the crew at IDPARTS some beer....

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Got Sheep?

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead

Wish I had seen your post before I ordered it, but this looks like the same one you linked to and has the same part number. Here is the link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HN ... UTF8&psc=1

Its been ordered, Hopefully its the right one. I always like to support the vendors that take care of us on the board though and I would have bought from them if I knew.