My stock OEM block heater on my CRD died, confirmed with an OHM meter. I searched the forum to see if anyone else may have replaced their unit with a larger "freeze plug" type block heater. I have several diesel trucks and prefer the freeze plug type heaters because they are larger and provide more surface area contact with the coolant and therefore provide higher and quicker response time when heating the coolant. Has anyone else tried this and if so what size is the diameter opening of the freeze plug that was used? What location on the block did you mount the heater?

Thanks, Tom

If you cannot find what you are looking for the PN for the OEM block heater is 56044738AA

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Check the wiring where it goes into the plug.My wires broke off inside the isulation. where the flat wire attaches to the plug.Use the OHM meter and jiggle the wires around.Bet it shows a intermittent connection.
Ron

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2005 SPORT CRD Black
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Factory Skids
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If you haven't already, I think you're going to find you have an amazing amount of problems trying to get the old one out of the block. I have tried to remove it from several different engines and have not yet been successful. I have however, destroyed several tools.

I would look into retrofitting a frost heater type of coolant heater, you'll get more power out of the smaller pump driven heater and it will do exactly the same job more effectively because it also actively circulates the coolant throughout the entire engine.

As for where to connect it to the engine, you can locate it in line with the viscous heater, or you can replace the EGR cooler line directly out of the head and circulate it that way.


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I'm having the same problem as the OP. Continuity on the wires, but an open circuit directly on the heater. I think I am going to go with heating through the old EGR cooling route. I assume the flow comes out of the head on the intake side and then goes into the heater hose y-pipe? Or does it flow the other way?

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.

You are correct - out from the head and in to the Y pipe.

I guess I will need to start saving those Y pipes whenever I do an EGR delete now, I've been tossing them b/c I hadn't thought about this usage until this thread.

Yes, you ought to save them. I have two because one of my heater hoses blew and from Jeep it was a complete assembly. I think this could make a nice upgrade without the cost of the Webasto (should have bought one of those when they were flooded on ebay for $500). Weeks could incorporate this into his kit. Then you wouldn't need the y-pipe delete, or the plug for the nipple on the head, but you would need some heater hose, and a heater. Of course you have the inconvenience of needing a 110 volt outlet. I haven't tried to remove the OE heater yet. Sure would be nice just to replace that with a higher wattage. Looks like it's brass.

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.

This is probably the simplest and cheapest solution.

https://www.amazon.com/Kats-16600-Lower ... ose+heater

Anyone know what the diameter of the lower radiator hose is? No pump in this heater, but since the lower hose is the lowest point in the coolant system, you probably don't need one. It's 50% higher wattage than the OE too.

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.