Hey all,

I have a 06 Liberty CRD with about 160,000 miles.
I've been getting an over-boost code P0234. I've checked the hoses, inter-cooler, MAP etc, long story short there is only about 1/8" movement on the vane actuator arm thing when I disconnect the vacuum line. so my questions are-

Can I reliably open the turbo and clean the vanes? Is it worth it with 160k miles? I did try the oven cleaner trick with no positive results.

Any opinions/reviews on the cheaper none Garrett turbos?

Any opinion on the "upgraded" turbo from Sasquach Parts?

thanks for any input

When you did the oven cleaner thing, did you remove the turbo from the engine?

It might be worth removing the turbo and spraying some PBblaster (or something) inside and on the linkage. Then try to work it by hand to see if it frees up some more.
Also inspect the shaft for excessive play.

The best replacement turbo is a NEW one from Garrett.
The Sasquatch one seems pretty good but its a fairly new release so no idea about longevity.
If it were me and I needed a turbo, I would get the Sasquatch.

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U.S. Army Retired

I agree, I would go Sasquatch too for a stock replacement.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

thanks guys. I kinda feel that with the miles, if I am going to take the turbo off, i will just replace it instead of cleaning and putting back.
hopefully it will hold up until after the holidays.

If you get a new one, dont throw the old one away. Someone here might have a need for it.

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U.S. Army Retired

I would consider buying it off you if it's not too much.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Finished installing the Sasquatch turbo on my project tonight. As it's on a lift with good access as needed from above and below, nearly everything was straightforward, ......except one. The one big (little) thing that should be improved, is the mounting method of the turbo oil return. It would save potentially many hours and thousands of curse words, if there were studs installed with loctite red, and nuts / lockwashers to fasten the drain mounting flange. Got'er done with the provided equipment, but only because I'm too darn stubborn to give up and go get the studs I was wishing for.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

^^ This!! Stupid thing doesn't quite line up with the holes on the turbo, so once one bolt is installed, good luck getting the other one in! I spent HOURS trying and trying from above and below; no luck. I finally ended up grabbing this cheap, crappy USB boroscope I bought a few months earlier on eBay, connecting it to my laptop, and using that to look up the bolt hole on the return line's bracket only to see that it was nowhere near lined up with the threaded hole on the turbo. Had to shove a flathead screwdriver between the side of the bracket and the compressor housing to move the bracket over and get it lined up.

My oil return line is solid metal tubing from the turbo to the engine block, but I've noticed the one idparts carries has a flexible braided section, which would make the job way easier. Sucker's expensive, but if I ever have to remove the thing again, I'll probably replace it with one of those.

Its only slightly easier.

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U.S. Army Retired

Call me crazy but after doing 8 head gaskets now I don't mind the drain tube. Sure it's a pain but have just got in a good routine and it's not so bad now for me

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I guess if you know from the start what needs to be done in order to get the holes lined up...

BTW, any tips for removing the old return line gasket from the bottom of the turbo? I got it done with enough time, patience, and some gasket remover, but I figure it might be helpful to the OP if they end up pulling the turbo and cleaning the vanes. Not much space to get in there between the turbine and compressor housings!

I typically check the condition of it and re use the original if not harmed. If harmed, I just use a standard screw driver to scrape it off.

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Again thanks everyone!

If I end up changing it out I'll put the old one up.

So was the conclusion that the flex oil line is worth it or not? Sasquach sells an install kit with both lines, one is flexible but it's kinda pricey. Worth it, will I need all that stuff or can I reuse the original stuff?

The CRD gets to take us on a long road trip this Christmas, cross your fingers it lasts.

I'd save your money. Not to freak you out but either drain tune is a pain to the first timer. Just be patient and try not to use too many swear words

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Being that it is just a drain line. One could just cut a section out of it and hose clamp a piece of oil resistant rubber hose on to make it flexible. May not be as pretty but would only cost a few bucks.