what is this pump/pulley

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

Good news (i think) the viscous heater now goes round continuously when the car engine reaches normal operating temperature.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:55 am

If by that you mean the pulley spins but the clutch is disengaged (face does not spin) that's the way it's supposed to be at operating temp.

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

No its all spinning now and not stop starting all the time

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2016 2:37 pm

What does your temp gauge get up too? On all the time indicates the thermostat might be failing

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

Just under half way

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

reeflodge wrote:

Just under half way

You should check your temperature with a scanner, one notch under half way can can be from 165f to 200f.
you can get one that work with your phone for about 15$.

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

We just drove over 100 miles without any problem and the temp gauge never went above just under half way.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2016 5:12 pm

I'll try this again based on the video in the original post:
1. at 2 seconds in the viscous heater clutch is disengaged so the pulley is spinning freely. This is the normal operating condition when engine coolant is at operating temp or IIRC above ca. 140F. If you pull the viscous heater relay this is what you will see as the clutch is always disengaged.
2. at 4 seconds the clutch is engaged so the pulley is driving the internals of the viscous heater. This is the normal operating condition when the engine coolant is below the temps noted above.
3. if the viscous clutch is engaging/disengaging engine temp is on the border between the cold and hot.

With a properly functioning thermostat the normal temp gauge needle position is right about 1/2 needle width left of dead vertical or dead vertical. One gauge mark left of vertical and your thermostat is opening too early and the engine is running cold.

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

OK I have a fault code P0128 which confirms the Temp fault.

Do I need a new thermostat or is there a fix as they are quite expensive her in England!

Thanks

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:08 am

That code refers to the sensor being too cold for awhile. So it's either a stuck open thermostat(common) or bad temp sensor. There is a vendor on eBay that will ship across the pond and price seems reasonable. Just be careful and buy oem. Stay away from crown and other off brands

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

I have just had the radiator replaced and its since then that this fault has arisen.

Could it be something the mechanic has forgot to do?

lacabrera · **Posted:** Fri Dec 30, 2016 10:26 am

Check if the connector is connected to the temp sensor. May have been missed when the rad was replaced. if not try replacing the sensor first. It plays havoc if the ECU has no or incorrect temperature input.

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

lacabrera wrote:

Check if the connector is connected to the temp sensor. May have been missed when the rad was replaced. if not try replacing the sensor first. It plays havoc if the ECU has no or incorrect temperature input.

I have managed to take the Sensor off (the one that screws into the thermostat) and test it with the probe in a saucepan of water which I measured the resistance as it heated up and it dropped so no problem with the sensor.
The Sensor connecter has 5v and there is continuity to ground.

So surely it can only be the thermostat which unfortunately is not one of those cheap ones!
Its sealed inside a housing.

It was fine before the Radiator was changed!
Why has this happened since having a new radiator fitted?

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

Surely the Thermostat must be stuck open if when the engine is cold and not running I should not be able to squeeze the top radiator hose and see coolant rise and fall in the Radiator water fill tank?

The thermostat should be close when cold so coolant should not be able to pass through the housing am I correct?

lacabrera · **Posted:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 11:54 am

reeflodge wrote:

Surely the Thermostat must be stuck open if when the engine is cold and not running I should not be able to squeeze the top radiator hose and see coolant rise and fall in the Radiator water fill tank?

The thermostat should be close when cold so coolant should not be able to pass through the housing am I correct?

With a good thermostat the gauge will read just below half after around 4miles. 1/4 on the gauge means new thermostat.
I don't know the true reason for failed thermostats but maybe in your case the stat drying out whilst the rad change caused it to fail.
My opinion is to replace with an original, Should be good for several years. Some members have experimented with new designs. But I would not go with an inline/inhose stat.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 11:59 am

lacabrera wrote:

reeflodge wrote:

Surely the Thermostat must be stuck open if when the engine is cold and not running I should not be able to squeeze the top radiator hose and see coolant rise and fall in the Radiator water fill tank?

The thermostat should be close when cold so coolant should not be able to pass through the housing am I correct?

With a good thermostat the gauge will read just below half after around 4miles. 1/4 on the gauge means new thermostat.
I don't know the true reason for failed thermostats but maybe in your case the stat drying out whilst the rad change caused it to fail.
My opinion is to replace with an original, Should be good for several years. Some members have experimented with new designs. But I would not go with an inline/inhose stat.

Squeezing the hose you are pressurizing the system and water will still rise from the bottom hose through the block and into the res. So its not a try indication. Best way I find is to start the engine from cold and if the top of the rad gets hot before the gauge reading 1/4 stat is open.

reeflodge · **Joined:** Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:35 pm **Posts:** 101

Left it running for 45mins and gauge still reads cold and top hose only Luke warm.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:20 pm

Sounds like you need a new stat. These things take forever to heat up with a bad thermostat. When mine went bad I could drive 20 miles before the needle got to 1/4.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:33 pm

reeflodge wrote:

Left it running for 45mins and gauge still reads cold and top hose only Luke warm.

If you only let it idle for 45 mins, you have not sufficiently warmed the engine enough to put much heat into the coolant! :roll:

As lacabrera stated, you must drive it for 3 or 4 miles to put some heat loading on the engine and truly test the thermostat function...
If you find that your current thermostat is bad; replace it with a new OEM thermostat (Not Crown brand). ID parts and a few others have them.
Most do not recommend the inline or in hose thermostat mod as there are some real concerns about not having adequate coolant flow through the head during the warm-up cycle...

what is this pump/pulley

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