Tbelt tensioner question:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2017 7:38 pm

Is this thing's tensioner supposed to dance???

Everything is in and aligned, looking good after 12 manual rotations (to confirm injection pump align 2x).

HOWEVER, I'm mightily concerned about the tensioner behavior. While rotating manually, it's tension-indicator detent fluctuates, albeit from the correct tension to more tension, not less.
NORMAL???

Was also kinda' shocked by how little torque was necessary to bring tensioner to "correct" setting; normal?

I'd appreciate knowledgeable confirmation before proceeding.

MANY THANKS!

KEYWORDS: timing-belt tensioner motion, timing belt's tensioner calibration, adjusting timing belt tensioner, t-belt, t belt,

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2017 10:26 pm

It doesnt take much torque to set the tensioner.
Is the tensioner bolt tightened properly?

The tensioner is a spring and is on the slack side of the belt.
Naturally, the pulses from hand turning the crank will cause noticable pulses at the tensioner.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2017 1:40 am

10mm tensioner bolt torqued to 30# per spec. It seems kinda' taxing that both the tensioner and it's adjustment are both leaning on one long skinny bolt; relieved it's proven reliable.
I'm used to soob hydraulic tensioners; they have a WAY-firmer action than these spring-loaders. Hence watching the bouncey-bouncey flex of this tensioner's 'indicator-tab' was disconcerting.
Unless I'm misunderstanding, you're saying that as long as that tab doesn't rebound BELOW the correct tension setting, only tighter, than it's responding normally.

Many thanks for the education!

On a positive note, this thing has impressive front and back timing-belt covers. Solid and well-made, with excellent rubber components.

On a negative note, today a pedestrian was hit and killed while attempting to cross mid-block on Ensenada's busiest street; traffic stopped, body draped in a white sheet. I've seen many corpses, but every time it is a fresh reminder to make the most of your day. They are finite .

Hopefully, we work on our jeeps so that they can transport us to places that make life worthwhile.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2017 3:25 am

Well Said.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:21 am

Mine was dancing when I started it up. just like any spring tension belt tensioner.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:04 pm

Yes, they "dance" a little, no cause for concern. I would recommend re-tensioning it after your test start.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:38 pm

Some dancing is to be expected and is normal. I always start them up with the cover off and check it again after a 30 second or so run, just to ensure the tensioner arm lands just to the right of the spring rod (so it is behind that left "tower" of the indicator) when I'm done.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:19 pm

Thanks for the insights!

I pressed-on feeling reassured. Cranked like a champ, no start, timing confirmed holding spot-on at crank/inj.pump/cams. Unfortunately, I have to t-shoot a fuel-supply issue. She's been dormant for four-months, so... 3/4 tank, the fresh Kennedy pump is humming, but nothing to the fuel head. MORE FUN!

Question: aside from pending fuel-supply issue, what systems MUST be reconnected for 30-second test-run post-tbelt install???
A. All injectors replaced/connectors snug.
B. Injection pump installed, timed, wired.
C. Glos installed & connected.
D. ALL of the topside solenoid/sensor connectors snug.

Other? While cranking, i was thinking of air-bleeding the fuel rail by feeding the #1 injector line into a big ziplock bag, tubing the return line to a container. Bad idea?

Thanks!

(- Predictably, this prolonged R&R has consumed the fourth fuel-rail return-line retainer clip. Hopefully, some universal clip will suffice. If not, I'm thinking a proper-size safety-pin could work, "hugging" the circular return-line fitting...)

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2017 1:02 am

If your rail is dry, it will take a lot of cranking to get fuel up and into that. Good luck, have a battery charger on standby. Don't crank longer than 5 seconds continuously with 15 seconds rest to prevent the starter from overheating. Probably take about 4-5 cycles before you will have fire. I'd leave the rail sealed and connected, or you will just encourage more air leaking back in.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2017 6:16 am

The return clips are absurdly expensive from Mopar.

GM Duramax is the same and costs much less

http://sinisterdiesel.com/i-16504673-dipaco-injector-return-line-kit-for-gm-duramax-2004-5-2010-6-6l.html

Full set (1 side of Duramax) is a complete replacement, with clips and hose and O-rings, for about the same or less than a single clip from Mopar.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 12:58 pm

Thanks Gents, great info.
Gordnado: Thanks for Duramax link!

Geordi, given that I installed a Kennedy Lift Pump, I get 20 seconds of ignition-on energy to the pump. After I t-shoot my supply issue, I was thinking that with one injector-feed off that I could electrically-bleed the entire fuel system (loading-up the fuel-rail etc.). Will the injection-pump permit flow-through, or does it have to be rotating to allow flow?
Also, the injector-tips look a bit carboned: any recommendations for a particular cleaner for the injectors? Unless it's a really bad idea, I'd prefer to use something more aggressive than a simple diesel-soak.

Thanks for the reminder on starter protection.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 3:06 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

Will the injection-pump permit flow-through, or does it have to be rotating to allow flow?
Also, the injector-tips look a bit carboned: any recommendations for a particular cleaner for the injectors? Unless it's a really bad idea, I'd prefer to use something more aggressive than a simple diesel-soak.

Your electric fuel pump will only be good to circulate the fuel from tank to fuel filter and back. To get diesel in the rail and injectors you need to spin the cp3. The pump will mechanically create pressure and send it to the common rail for the injectors.

Cleaning wise, there are some tiny holes in the tip of the injector. If you use any hard media to clean the deposits, make sure the dirt doesn't end up in those tiny holes. The pressure will push it out more than likely, but why risk it? And btw, don't clean those small holes with anything hard, you risk to decalibrate them.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 4:29 pm

Thanks T-rex!

I was just thinking of using a spray-cleaner, focusing especially on the tip, and then wiping-clean and dry with a lint-free rag (no 'hard media').
My central concern was the risk of spray-residue potentially affecting injector performance. As you mentioned, possibly blocking or damaging the nozzle-jets. Regarding less-residue sprays, MAF-cleaner may be the "friendliest" but I'm not really sure.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 6:25 pm

Heres a video I did recently of the tensioner while running:

https://youtu.be/E232-N3-Oss

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:18 pm

Cool Vid! Thanks.
I yearn to sway to a similar song... however, it appears my <3k Kennedy pump is dead.
Well, it makes noise but it's not pumping. P.O.'d!!!
I'm going to use a vac pump to load the line past the filter then have another go.
Re your vid, its interesting that under a stable and substantial load that springy tensioner is rock-steady, yet while hand-cranking it bounces all over the place. When I (finally) get this pup humming I'll remember to eyeball mine like you did.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 10:04 pm

Keep in mind that under hand crank the force required varies quite a bit as you fight compression and the spring compressing. You will notice the engine has certain spots it wants to spring to while turning it over. This causes a change in tension while turning it slowely. The faster you turn the more this is evened out.

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